Kitchen Grid switch method

[Bobby34]

Hi everybody,

Looking at putting a kitchen grid switch in my kitchen and wanted to see what you guys (and girls) thoughts were about my set up as i've not installed one before.

Looking at running a 2.5mm radial just for the sockets and a boiling tap (1500w) theres no large appliances to be plugged in to this circuit as they are all integrated.

Then a 4mm radial to the grid plate with 2.5mm feeding each appliance (washing machine, fridge freezer, mic, wine cooler, gas hob, extractor hood & electric fire - total watts/amps before any diversity applied 4790w/21amps)

Finally i'd have a separate 4mm radial feeding the double oven and mic (the switches for these can go into the oven housing itself or if theres enough space in the grid for another 4mm supply add them to it)

Be interested to get your thoughts as iv not installed a grid switch before but not too happy about putting it on a ring with that much load concentrated at one spot.

Thanks peeps

 

[littlespark]

I'd put general sockets on a 32A rfc. Maybe all the large appliances are integrated, and on their own circuit... but any countertop equipment may include a kettle, toaster, coffee machine, mixers etc etc. Soon add up those amps..

Grid switches are normally 20A rated.... and not a lot of room behind them for 2.5mm rfc supply, never mind wrestling with a 4mm radial

 

[pc1966]

Then a 4mm radial to the grid plate with 2.5mm feeding each appliance (washing machine, fridge freezer, mic, wine cooler, gas hob, extractor hood & electric fire - total watts/amps before any diversity applied 4790w/21amps)

Do you mean one grid switch per appliance off a 20A radial feed here so you can isolate fridge, etc, without pulling it out?

If so you will struggle to get 4mm in to one and then 2.5mm looped to each one in turn from there! Otherwise it is a monster Wago junction behind the lot and in both cases you will find even the deeper back boxes tight.

 

[DefyG]

Grid switches are normally 20A rated....

That's right although Scolmore Click do a 32A DP version but about the only ones that do as far as am aware!

 

[Avo Mk8]

I seem to remember grid switch 'suitability' has been debated here before!

MK say their grid switch terminal capacity is suitable for 2 x 4mm!
The 20A is the switch load rating, not a limit applicable to the supply terminals being linked together.

The MK back box is only 40mm deep, whereas there are others at 47mm, so worth investigating brands.
As long as the strapping of the switches is crafted before wiring the gangs in place, I would say it's do-able, and there's only one supply side cable to wrestle with, as opposed to two on a rfc!
However there are seven appliances in your list, so presumably an 8 gang grid?

I think the major hassle will be dealing with the seven outgoing 2.5 T&E's rather than the 4mm supply!

 

[DefyG]

However there are seven appliances in your list, so presumably an 8 gang grid?

Or more as forgot to say earlier the Scolmore 32A is a double sized module!

 

[timhoward]

Being honest this all sounds a little bit like "making work for oneself" to me; I like sensible switching and where things need to be centrally controlled grid switches are great. But in this case the switches will hardly ever be operated and just sit there, and the cable runs to the switch become complicated, let alone trying to dress all those wires behind the switch. It would also be super-rare to want to operate more than one switch at a time.
So I wonder - is the attraction of a cool looking switch giving an air of command and control over the entire kitchen so great that all this work is desirable, when you could just put in a 4mm radial and be in the pub by lunchtime spending the considerable chunk of change you've saved by not buying all those MK modules on a few beers and a bowl of chips?
It's your kitchen and your rules though!

 

[pc1966]

In Scotland the building regs now requite accessible means of isolation for kitchen white goods so it is not uncommon to see a normal 20A DP switch above the counter and then a 13A unsiwtched socket behind the appliance.

Easier to wire as the DP switches can be on 4mm radial or 2.5mm RFC as you prefer, and slightly more obvious what switches do what (especially if labelled!)

 

[Bobby34]

Being honest this all sounds a little bit like "making work for oneself" to me; I like sensible switching and where things need to be centrally controlled grid switches are great. But in this case the switches will hardly ever be operated and just sit there, and the cable runs to the switch become complicated, let alone trying to dress all those wires behind the switch. It would also be super-rare to want to operate more than one switch at a time.
So I wonder - is the attraction of a cool looking switch giving an air of command and control over the entire kitchen so great that all this work is desirable, when you could just put in a 4mm radial and be in the pub by lunchtime spending the considerable chunk of change you've saved by not buying all those MK modules on a few beers and a bowl of chips?
It's your kitchen and your rules though!

Hi Tim,

It's more about nit wanting individual fcu's dotted around the kitchen, it's quite compact so with the addition of an integrated mic I just don't want the fcus everywhere - the grid switches are a neat and tidy way of dealing with it.

Could you expand on the 4mm radial part of your reply, how would you isolate the different appliances?, interested in others opinions and ways of doing it as i'm by no means a veteran at electrics lol.

 

[Bobby34]

I seem to remember grid switch 'suitability' has been debated here before!

MK say their grid switch terminal capacity is suitable for 2 x 4mm!
The 20A is the switch load rating, not a limit applicable to the supply terminals being linked together.

The MK back box is only 40mm deep, whereas there are others at 47mm, so worth investigating brands.
As long as the strapping of the switches is crafted before wiring the gangs in place, I would say it's do-able, and there's only one supply side cable to wrestle with, as opposed to two on a rfc!
However there are seven appliances in your list, so presumably an 8 gang grid?

I think the major hassle will be dealing with the seven outgoing 2.5 T&E's rather than the 4mm supply!

Yes the runs are nice and short thankfully but my next questions was what is a good grid manufacturer - I can have a 47mm deep back box (would be an 8 gang box, 2 rows of 4) so i'd imagine there would be a fair bit of space