LED strip battens for a photography studio

[ruston]

Old two and a quarter paper roll had to be wound on and advanced.

 

[Jim_e_Jib]

You can get dimmers for dimmable LEDs.
Not sure though whether domestic LEDs will be suitable for photography.
With video they appear to flicker.

The flicker on video is usually caused by the camera (or the operator) choosing an odd shutter speed for the frequency of the lights.

For the OP's customer, the lights flickering might prove a problem at higher shutter speeds for stills as you might not get the full brightness of the lights when the shutter opens. If the lights have high frequency ballasts/electronics this should be much less of a problem.

I think he'd be better off with some flashes and a remote trigger though.

http://www.yongnuo.eu if money is tight, branded if it isn't.

 

[ruston]

The flicker on video is usually caused by the camera (or the operator) choosing an odd shutter speed for the frequency of the lights.

For the OP's customer, the lights flickering might prove a problem at higher shutter speeds for stills as you might not get the full brightness of the lights when the shutter opens. If the lights have high frequency ballasts/electronics this should be much less of a problem.

I think he'd be better off with some flashes and a remote trigger though.

http://www.yongnuo.eu if money is tight, branded if it isn't.

Jim , the proposed lights are to be LED , but I wonder how they will perform too.

 

[Carl S]

Is he using the LED lights for the shoots or using them for setting up? Flicker can be eliminated by using neutral density filters and extending the exposure time.


Colour balance isn’t so easy, I used multiple 600K “daylight” balanced incandescent lamps. I don’t know if you can get 600K LED’s but watch out for colour shift using a dimmer. A conventional dimmer on incandescent lamps alters the colour shift and so I didn’t use dimmers. By moving the lamps nearer to or further away gives the exposure control.

Using power controllable 1.25kJ studio units was far easier, the xenon tubes gave constant colour rendition. (I will say this, these units are bloody dangerous if you mess around with them. 1.25kJ in 1/250th of a second = 400A @660V DC and will kill).


Whatever he does he will need a good light meter and use his camera in manual if he wants to produce good (and saleable) photographs.

 

[GLENNSPARK]

Is this a wind up

I'm not a photographer Mike....
I can only run this setup by people who know all that stuff...
Then I can report back what's been said...

 

[static zap]

600K “daylight”

May be 6000K (as sun views at about 5800K) ?
Lamps confusingly seem to drop a 0 and the K
(explains the 1000 model)

 

[GLENNSPARK]

Anyway...for what it's worth...

I've told him it's a no-goer...
And he says he's been experimenting with the distance of these lights from the subject...

So I think that's it...for now

Thanks for replies