Discuss Melted socket, plug and wiring in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Yes, although with good-quality fittings the contact should be gas-tight enough not to fail so often. Contact wiping is a work-around for poor design and poor materials. Failure of spring temper can be an integral part of the runaway process too:

Contact is loose - surfaces oxidise.
Oxidation increades resistance, contact heats more.
Heat weakens spring tension, contact gets looser...
 
I'm sure there's lots of other contributing factors. I think that with a lot of the newer sockets it's simply that they've trimmed and trimmed the amount of brass to the point where contact tension has suffered. The quality of brass being used could also be an issue. Also if the socket is located below counter at the back of the washing machine and tumble dryer then humidity could also be high and accelerate corrosion.
 
That's why I said old mk. Have you tried their new split boards? I was adding a cooker circuit into one already installed to find 4 of the screws in the neutral bar had sheared when the original installer had fitted it, the breakers don't sit straight and the screws in the lid barely line up. So disappointing

He should of use a torque screwdriver, and he wouldn't of had that problem :rolleyes:

Incidentally, MK reckon they've cured their wonky mcb's etc with their latest A3 CU's!
 
Hi not looked at this forum for a while but just picked up my login details and saw this post.
I’ve read all the feedback and there are some good points.
I can’t remember who posted it, but the person who said just get decent quality sockets like MK is quite correct.
Having been in the electrical trade over 27 yeasts I have like many other electricians installed non branded sockets. When you talk to the Wholesailors where you purchased from, they will tell you either, “they are all made in the same place” or “they are all made the same way”
Unfortunately it’s not until you see pictures like yours that you see their not !
When you get burn or flash or scorch marks like the ones on your pics, they indicate the point of highest resistance and quite clearly point to where the failures is.
You won’t find scorch marks on a socket if someone has not tightened a terminal under the floorboards properly.
It is nothing more complicated than that.
If you are in a area or location with a high grid voltage and or, the items you described are quite energy consuming units then you would be better to have fixed points put in.
Otherwise you would be fine with decent quality sockets and manufactures plugs, providing you don’t have excessive moisture or water ingress near to or around the sockets.
This happened to one of our customers who has one of these instant hot water tap things that the heater was Ged from a socket under the sink with a slight leak that kept blowing the fuse.
I hope this helps and good luck
 
the instant heat under sink jobbies i've fitted lately are 9kW. 40A MCB, 6.0mm cable, and a 40A isolator.
 
He should of use a torque screwdriver, and he wouldn't of had that problem :rolleyes:

Incidentally, MK reckon they've cured their wonky mcb's etc with their latest A3 CU's!
I don't use them but I'll have to keep an eye out for the next new one I see! Seems to be quite a few brands can't make it work, poor build quality really
 
We get enquiries about burned plugs and/or sockets quite regularly, here's another from a few weeks ago

One of my theories was/still is if appliances don't get unplugged once in a while the plug pins and receptors in the socket get tarnished which makes them higher resistance causing heat which then makes the receptors lose tension, in turn causing arcing.

If a plug is removed from time to time it wipes clean the brass contact areas on the pins and in the socket making it more reliable.
That was my job, was a washing machine that was used sometimes twice a day and always left plugged in. replaced the socket with a Hager and they have had no issues since.
 

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