MR16 to GU10 conversion

[JS118m]

I have 60+ of these Aurora down lights in 12v MR16 format and want to convert them to 230V GU10 LED by changing the lamp holder for something like this Spare Lamp Holder for GU10 Downlights - https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/172041-spare-lamp-holder-for-contract-gu10-downlight-range

The plan is to bring power to the lamp holder using 1mm2 3093Y into the can via one of the vent holes, make the live and neutral connections inside the can using Wago 221 connectors and bring the earth to the out of the can to the metal tab. The flex will be held in place at the top of the can using a small cable tie.

Is this safe and acceptable, any suggestions gratefully received.

Thanks

 

[telectrix]

from that pic.it lookslike you cable entry is the center hole. appears to have a grommet fitted. however, that fittinglooks like it's a poor candidate for modifying. why not fit 12V LEDs to existing lampholders and fit a suitable driver in place of the existing transformer?

 

[littlespark]

The galvanised bracket on the can is designed to take one of those little connector block in a box enclosures. Bring your tails from the lamp holder through the centre grommited hole and terminate into the box.
The tails on some of these lamp holders are double insulated, outer sheathed. Perfectly good to connect outside.

Save a lot of faffing if you just buy new 230v LED fittings the right size.

 

[JS118m]

from that pic.it lookslike you cable entry is the center hole. appears to have a grommet fitted. however, that fittinglooks like it's a poor candidate for modifying. why not fit 12V LEDs to existing lampholders and fit a suitable driver in place of the existing transformer?

Thank you for the response. Re the 12V option taking the exisiting transformers out removes a point of potential failure and although its a while ago I've had mixed results with a 12V LED in this installation which flickered. By contrast I've used Philips Master Series GU10 with dim tone which have been an almost exact replacement for the 12 halogens.

 

[JS118m]

The galvanised bracket on the can is designed to take one of those little connector block in a box enclosures. Bring your tails from the lamp holder through the centre grommited hole and terminate into the box.
The tails on some of these lamp holders are double insulated, outer sheathed. Perfectly good to connect outside.

Save a lot of faffing if you just buy new 230v LED fittings the right size.

Thanks. I'll have a look for a double insulated lampholder, the length of the GU10 lamp doesn't leave much clearance in this can though. New LED fittings would be easier as you state but I have an aversion to binning otherwise serviceable kit.

 

[UNG]

Thanks. I'll have a look for a double insulated lampholder, the length of the GU10 lamp doesn't leave much clearance in this can though. New LED fittings would be easier as you state but I have an aversion to binning otherwise serviceable kit.

Surely if you are trying to convert these fittings then they are not serviceable kit but if you do convert them then what testing are you intending to do to ensure they are safe, cheaper and less messing around to just replace with a new fitting designed or the purpose

 

[JS118m]

Surely if you are trying to convert these fittings then they are not serviceable kit but if you do convert them then what testing are you intending to do to ensure they are safe, cheaper and less messing around to just replace with a new fitting designed or the purpose

That's a fair point, part of the motivation for conversion is some of the fittings are connected to a Lutron Homeworks system and the Philips lamp I mentioned works very well particularly the dimming function which can be problematic. Conversion would require no work to reconfigure the Homeworks system new LED fittings may, time isn’t an issue as I’m retired. Re the testing I’m thinking the issue is ensuring that the earthing of the can is effective as it now has 230V rather than 12V, all the lighting circuits are RCD protected.

 

[JS118m]

Surely if you are trying to convert these fittings then they are not serviceable kit but if you do convert them then what testing are you intending to do to ensure they are safe, cheaper and less messing around to just replace with a new fitting designed or the purpose

That's a fair point, part of the motivation for conversion is some of the fittings are connected to a Lutron Homeworks system and the Philips lamp I mentioned works very well particularly the dimming function which can be problematic. Conversion would require no work to reconfigure the Homeworks system new LED fittings may, time isn’t an issue as I’m retired. Re the testing I’m thinking the issue is ensuring that the earthing of the can is effective as it now has 230V rather than 12V, all the lighting circuits are RCD protected.

 

[telectrix]

good luck with it. any more advice, feel free to ask on here.

 

[baldelectrician]

I would change the fittings, we use JCC downlights that take seperate GU10 LED lamps