Steel conduit - tips and tricks?

[DavidSpark]

Hello!

Got a few jobs on the way that involve large amounts of conduit work. All surface mounted and will mostly be mounted externally around the building.

I was just wondering if anyone has any good tips, tricks or good points to think about when doing it to be quicker and more efficient. This includes tools or working methods.

Thanks all.

 

[telectrix]

employ a good metal cruncher (improver) to do the cutting, threading and bending. you fix it on the building..

 

[cliffed]

Yes,proper jobby.
Make it simple,less sets/kicks,straight runs if you can.
Assemble pieces than fit if you can ,saves those dreaded runners.
Take time to think of the route involved & enjoy.

 

[westward10]

What are you running through it as this may dictate whether to set or fit BESA boxes in some areas.

 

[cliffed]

When I was younger,hated 25mm conduit,skinny little runt,had difficulty bending it,proper nanna.
Been on site recently,sparkies used it everywhere.
Even for external lights which I thought way over the top.
20mm would of sufficed,but hey oh.

 

[DavidSpark]

What are you running through it as this may dictate whether to set or fit BESA boxes in some areas.

Good point, it'll be 1.5mm singles for lighting circuits. Don't want to have to needlessly deal with bends when I could use the boxes to pull through from!

 

[LankyWill]

Get J-Halls stocks and dyes no others come close, they will save you time when threading. 32 tpi works best for cutting aswell, remember to drill the besa boxes before mounting them.

 

[telectrix]

second the Hall dies. had mine for 40 years. still can cut a thread (although i ain't done any for a good while).

 

[Pete999]

Make sure you deburr ALL cut ends, joints etc, nothing worse than getting damaged insulation when pulling cables through the tube, make sure you have plenty of access points (use manufactured bend and boxes rather than to many site made bend etc, get some decent thread cutting compound and pulling lubricant, you may need to treat threads and joints that are exterior against rusting.

 

[Ian1981]

You better off just hiring the pipe vice/bending equipment.
Get a 110v threading machine hired as well

 

[LankyWill]

Use galv spray paint for exposed threads and make sure you debur every cut including the manufacturer ends.

 

[Strima]

Lube, lube and more lube.

As has been said earlier, if you can justify it get a cutting and threading machine, this will save time and a lot of effort. Plan your route carefully to reduce the amount of joins and bends you need and use manufactured joints where possible.

 

[westward10]

I would never use manufactured bends or elbows they look terrible and would not use them outside.

 

[cliffed]

Always a prob going round external corner,outside,some take out the brick,others,end box,conduit into that,whatever.

 

[westward10]

Terminal box for me.

 

[Dillb]

I would never use manufactured bends or elbows they look terrible and would not use them outside.

This, manufactured bends dont look anywhere near as neat or as good as a properly made bend by yourself.

 

[Deleted member 26818]

Get J-Halls stocks and dyes no others come close, they will save you time when threading. 32 tpi works best for cutting aswell, remember to drill the besa boxes before mounting them.

32tpi is for tray and trunking.
24 or 18 tip for conduit.

 

[freddo]

Plan your route carefully to reduce the amount of joins and bends you need and use manufactured joints where possible.

It's faster to bend than than cut several threads and screw stuff together, easier to draw the cables though too.

Always a prob going round external corner,outside,some take out the brick,others,end box,conduit into that,whatever.

Swan neck it if it's not appropriate to chip away at the corner of the wall.

 

[cliffed]

Use spacer saddles,or hospital saddles to allow conduit entry into socket or equipment.
I hate to see sets going into equipment when not needed.
Also if the knockout is slightly to the front,drill another hole,this then takes the conduit straight into the fitting.
Use a bush spanner to tighten up.

 

[Pete999]

Use spacer saddles,or hospital saddles to allow conduit entry into socket or equipment.
I hate to see sets going into equipment when not needed.
Also if the knockout is slightly to the front,drill another hole,this then takes the conduit straight into the fitting.
Use a bush spanner to tighten up.

Don't like drilling over a knockout, could cause the existing knockout to become detached, causing damage to the box, wish the disagree icon wasn't so confrontational.