Discuss Strange fault with Drayton programmer in the Central Heating Systems area at ElectriciansForums.net

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If they take the valve off and replace it them it would be worthwhile to fit isolator valves to save draining down the system when it fails on 30 years time. A drain down and flush could be on the cards to get rid of any crap in the system, the whole lot may have acquired a chunk of magnetite stopping the valve from operating fully. Does the valve operate fully?

I could be talking out of my arse but would induced currents have an effect on the new programmer?
problem there is BG maintenance contract excludes drain and flush tha't chargeable at exhorbitant cost. they quoted us £800, and even worse, it was not the problem. some pipework was wrongly fitted (by them).
 
As mentioned I have had exact problem changed everything from fan on boiler, motherboard, tank stat, 3 way valve, both at least twice in 2 years thermostat in hall, sensor on boiler it's lmoat a new system again.. baxi boiler, always been good. Had electrician in the check wiring..all ok... Today Changed the brand new (2 months old) Drayton, put old Drayton timer back reset timer and working.... It's been driving me mad for Over a year... And yes CH came on soentimes only when water is on but not always. If the fault continues I will change the CU for a different brand.
 
Three days of working HW and CH, after removing and refitting Drayton, now HW not heating. So will reset Drayton remove it and see what happens....I'm 99% sure it's the Drayton at this stage.. if no joy I will buy a different make timer.
 
Have you checked the valve in the HW position or/and switched off the power to see if the valve then motors (spring return) to the HW position, it would seem that the valve is remaining in the CH position for whatever reason, what about cylinder stat?.
 
OK, but when you say "hot water not heating" you should then be able to establish with a multimeter if incorrect signal is still going to the valve or if the boiler is not getting a signal to fire up or whatever. If just switching the power off-on without removing/replacing the programmer then that would indicate not a pin problem.
 

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The only fix currently is when the unit is removed and replaced via the bracket.

If it continues to fail CH or HW and it changes from town to time, I'll gent a sparky in again, failing no problems with electrical, I will buy a new brand of timer.
 
Maybe worth having a read.

 

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