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I’m not sure if I’d ever trust one anyway without putting a proper screwdriver in afterwards and giving it an extra 1/8th turn to make it ‘F’ tight, as it states in the MIs
 
If the manufactures instructions that come with a CU state a torque screwdriver set to 2.5n must be used then thats what we should be doing, otherwise its not been installed correctly. very surprised at the response so far from experienced sparks on here.
 
If the manufactures instructions that come with a CU state a torque screwdriver set to 2.5n must be used then thats what we should be doing, otherwise its not been installed correctly. very surprised at the response so far from experienced sparks on here.
That's a noble statement but I've often found torque screwdrivers to be wanting, especially with multi stranded cables. T&E up to 2.5mm gives reliable results but 4mm and upwards often need more attention than by hand.
Also quite a few of the less reputable component brands have screws made of cream cheese that slip with the torque screwdriver.
It's not that we buy them to look pretty in the van rather we buy them expecting great things and find them wanting.

I started using mine routinely, had too much slipping so reverted to the old fashioned way with a check using the torque screwdriver to confirm, which showed that my right arm is quite well calibrated.

Having said that much of my work is on old boards with snarled up screws already so probably not the best field test.
 
I've found the cage clamp type terminals torqued up to spec with 25mm tails are not tight enough for my liking, the slightest movement loosens them. As above, my screwdriver operating appendage is the best calibrated tool I possess.
What I would say is that it is essential to use a good quality undamaged tool with todays terminal screws, a sub-standard head will damage the generally poor quality terminal screws and it becomes impossible to be sure it's tight.
 
This threads reminded me of a lad I used to work with for a brief spell when I was doing a bit of new build housing work......
I had to check a fault on the doorbell ding dong of a house that had been handed over and Tennant's occupied.....
When I'd sorted it out, as I'd been last one in the fuseboard (as I always do and advise everyone else too) I checked the tightness of all the other terminations in DB not expecting much.........
However to my horror I didn't get just half a turn.....no no......I got a full turn and a half on each and every MCB way neutrals and cpcs......
Shocking tut tut......
I went over to another house where fellow sparky was fitting another db and caught him red handed.......
He was only making all his DBs off with a 12v drill!!!

I read the riot act to him and his excuse was it's quicker this way and under too much pressure (I agree those lads are) but I can't agree with walking away from a house with not as tight as I can get connections.
I told him would you live with yourself if one of those houses burns down with a family in it?
Another thing on a lesser note I realised at a later date he hardly drills and plugs he just screws straight into breeze block. Never seen that done before and must admit seemed tight (the black screws the plasterboard guys use).
I still rather drill/plug myself like.
 
Anthony not knocking him but these are the reasons we get things imposed on us by the regs, lads just chucking it in and not checking. I personally do it up, give it a wiggle and then do it up again. Before I finish testing I check them all for tightness as well. What does it take, one minute?
 
Might be good if you know what the right torque setting is for fixing bake light surface back boxes and junction boxes to a wall/joist.
As the amount of times I've just thought to myself just another quarter turn will do.....then crack!! Fcuk!!
bakelite - Bing - https://www.bing.com/search?q=bakelite&form=EDNTHT&mkt=en-gb&httpsmsn=1&plvar=0&refig=f69a7ff551ac49afb6209ba61f1945a7&PC=HCTS&sp=1&qs=LS&pq=bakelite&sc=8-8&cvid=f69a7ff551ac49afb6209ba61f1945a7&cc=GB&setlang=en-GB
 
Might be good if you know what the right torque setting is for fixing bake light surface back boxes and junction boxes to a wall/joist.
As the amount of times I've just thought to myself just another quarter turn will do.....then crack!! Fcuk!!
Edit Deleted and it's Bakelite all one word.
 
Edit Deleted and it's Bakelite all one word.
Surely it's urea-formaldehyde. :D

I checked the tightness of all the other terminations in DB not expecting much.........
Had to alter some wiring for differently abled use in a brand new house, first owner not yet moved in. Got 5 turns on one of the incoming terminals of the main switch. o_O
 
Surely it's urea-formaldehyde. :D

Had to alter some wiring for differently abled use in a brand new house, first owner not yet moved in. Got 5 turns on one of the incoming terminals of the main switch. o_O
May be but it certainly aint Bake Light
 

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