Discuss Use of FP200. Will it get messed up by too much flexing? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Not really, a forum is a open debate which anyone can join in. The way the NICEIC brigade go on, its the be all and end all of topic as they have said so.
They'll find a reg it doesn't comply with so they can have a full day revisit £££££.
 
Why avoid flex for fixed wiring?
No real need AFAICT, provided it's "heavy duty" 521.9.1 (which leaves I think according to this definition only H07RN-F) but it needs lots of clips. Saying that, in a totally wonky timber barn space where the customer will be frowning at visible bits of cable, being able to bend it easily without kinking sideways or having to keep it flat while threading it about. (T&E), I see advantages in flex. I agree ideally should be bootlaced which is a bit of a pain.
 
Okay, I have admitted elsewhere on this forum that I am an idiot, but I am an old thick skinned idiot who can take a bit of stick so here goes...

What on earth is boot-lacing?

Is it just doubling up the end of a cable at the connection point? If so then this generally needs to be done with T+E if there is only one cable in a switch or socket.
Go on....shame me. I do not know the meaning of boot-lacing.

While I am here....clipping a flexible cable around beams and trying to hide cables is going to be HUGELY easier than using FP.

All the best,
Sym
 
Is boot-lacing twisting the strands of the flexible cables together?
Which is what I would do when connecting multiple flexes.
Note...I would never twist T+E cables together.

Twisting flexible cables together is not that much of a pain in the bum.

Using FP200 can definitely be a pain in the bum.

Sym
 
Spoon.
oh bloody hell, that shows how behind with stuff I am, blush.

So, do all connections of flexible cables now need a crimp on the end?

I.E....connecting an immersion heater with some buytle or other heat resistant cable needs to be crimped?

Cheers for the reply Spoon, it is another learning day at Chez Sym
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Spoon.
oh bloody hell, that shows how behind with stuff I am, blush.

So, do all connections of flexible cables now need a crimp on the end?

I.E....connecting an immersion heater with some buytle or other heat resistant cable needs to be crimped?

Cheers for the reply Spoon, it is another learning day at Chez Sym
you use bootlace ( otherwise known as ferrule) crimps where fine stranded cable is terminated in a screw terminal. this is the ensure that all the strands are in contact with the terminal, and no whiskers.
i use this crimp tool as it's self adjusting as regards size.
Crimper Plier Set 0.25-6.0mm Adjustable Ratchet Wire Crimping Cord Pin End Tool | eBay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crimper-Plier-Set-0-25-6-0mm-Adjustable-Ratchet-Wire-Crimping-Cord-Pin-End-Tool/322994537589?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D49138%26meid%3D583a79fc10cd4a9caffd1d14a8a2c113%26pid%3D100012%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D153019091412%26itm%3D322994537589&_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985
 
Thanks Telectrix.
So am I right in saying that if the OP uses a flexible cable to wire out this barn conversion all connections would have to be crimped?

Yes, as stated above and elsewhere I am an idiot.

If this is the case then shallow metal switch boxes would have to be replaced with metal single socket boxes to accommodate for the depth taken up by the crimp when connecting a one-way switch?

Thanks for your time
Sym
 
Is boot-lacing twisting the strands of the flexible cables together?
Which is what I would do when connecting multiple flexes.

I assume he means fitting boot lace ferrules to the stripper ends of the flex, which is the correct way to terminate flex into screw terminals as it prevents the spread of the strands and stops the screw from cutting through the strands.
 
If this is the case then shallow metal switch boxes would have to be replaced with metal single socket boxes to accommodate for the depth taken up by the crimp when connecting a one-way switch?

Thanks for your time
Sym

Not necessarily because plain ferrules don’t extend any further back than the stripped end of the insulation, it’s only bootlace ferrules which have a plastic collar.
Either way it is very rare to see a 16mm box used these days as very few dimmers or decorative switches actually fit on them.
 
I love working with FP200 Gold - I find it a real pleasure to work with. It is fully approved by BASEC for commercial and residential installations. Because it has a continuous CPC sheath, its use is not restricted to normal wiring "safe zones", though common sense needs to be used. It is also ok for surface wiring without covering - though only white (I think) is OK for external routes without conduit or other cover due to UV issues.

FP200 Gold has a better material for the internal wire sheaths c.f. 'No-Burn Platinum' which uses neoprene (I think) and is easy to damage mechanically.

As an earlier post stated, best way to strip is to score carefully around with knife (you do not want to cut right through it) and then gently bend backwards and forwards and then the outer covering breaks free and can be easily slid off.

I see no need for a ferrule and you would have to abuse it quite a lot to damage the foil CPC layer - there is a normal CPC wire run alongside the foil layer.
 

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