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I need to get an outside floodlight fitted, just need to think the best way to keep things logical.

Just want to make life easier for whoever might work on the installation at a later date.

The isolation switch will be in the kitchen but the actual light will be going outside through the wall of an adjacent room.

There are 3 options:

1. Connect into kitchen light loop with MF junction box on landing (where the other kitchen JB's are already) then run a long cable into next room to connect to the floodlight via another JB to join the cable to the flex going outside. (-ve uses 2 JB's, +ve the wiring is amongst the other kitchen lighting - makes sense as that is where the switch will be)

2. The light fitting in the adjacent room is the end of the radial circuit. The power for the floodlight could be connected there and run to a MF junction box near where the flex goes through the wall outside. Then run a long cable into the kitchen for the switch. (+ve only uses 1 JB, +ve JB for flood light is logically near the actual floodlight. -ve switch is in different room to most of the other wiring. -ve power is from one room switch in another)

3. The power could be run from a loop out from one of the landing JB's (for other kitchen lighting) all the way to the adjacent room next to where the flex exits the wall and then run back to the landing JB. The switch would run all the way from the kitchen to the adjacent room aswell meaning 3 cables in total. (-ve more effort and more wires, +ve uses only 1 JB amd keeps wiring logically close to the switch).

Finally, the landing is a good location for future because another floodlight for the front of the house could be connected there and share the same switch in the kitchen.

A drawing would make this easier to follow, but I'd like to hear some views on what kind of issues you consider when trying to keep things logical and avoid unnecessary cable runs and so on.

There is often more than one right answer. Thanks
 
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  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #4
buy a floodlight with remote control fob. can install it in less time than you took to type your post. :D:D:D:D
QUOTE]

It has one but it'll get lost / run out of batteries / need replacing in a few years so an isolation switch is worth having.

To really save effort and energy a solar floodlight might fit the bill:

US $37.42 49% OFF|Aliexpress.com : Buy Outdoor Solar Powered LED Flood light 10W with 5M wire+2200mA battery for Garden Solar Floodlights Spotlights Lamps Waterproof from Reliable led flood light 10w suppliers on DBF Speciality Store - https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Outdoor-Solar-Powered-LED-Flood-light-10W-with-5M-wire-2200mA-battery-for-Garden-Solar-Floodlights/1501626_32698869884.html

But, my question is more about why would you choose to do the job one way rather than another?

What would be the most sensible arrangement for being easy to follow in future?
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #8
REPLY to Charlie

The short answer is no, hence why it is better to run 1 cable instead of 3.

If everything was kept near the outside wall the shortest path is only a few meters from the switch but would have to be drilled through an awkward beam in a hard to reach place. It is also under the bathroom floor which will be inaccessible when tiles are down.

So, most of the wiring has been moved to JBs on the landing where it can be got at.

I think it is better for the switch cable to be pulled through under the bathroom resting on the plasterboard as far as the landing and then it can be clipped to joists and go though pre existing holes into the next room and run back down to the outside wall position. Or, the power for the light can take that path instead.

I think running 3 wires instead of 1 through the hard part of the route does not make it look tidy and logical.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #9
Non eof those option sound great as they all put a JB under the floor.
The JB's are Ashley Maintenance Free ones. The landing is easy to access. no furniture, no tiles. There has to be a way to join the flex from the floodlight to a cable, so that joint will be under the floor near the outside wall.
 

davesparks

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The JB's are Ashley Maintenance Free ones. The landing is easy to access. no furniture, no tiles. There has to be a way to join the flex from the floodlight to a cable, so that joint will be under the floor near the outside wall.
It doesn't matter who made them, a JB under the floor is still a poor option if it can be avoided.

Either fit a suitable connection box next to the floodlight, much easier to replace the flex and light if needed, or just run flex all the way for the light so you don't need a joint.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #12
Either fit a suitable connection box next to the floodlight, much easier to replace the flex and light if needed, or just run flex all the way for the light so you don't need a joint.
Thanks for that suggestion. I think option 1 but with the JB on the wall outside seems the best.

Something like this: Bravo Waterproof Junction Box Waterproof Cable Junction Box Connector In Ground Junction Box Waterproof - Buy Junction Box Electrical Connector,Junction Box Waterproof,Junction Box Waterproof Product on Alibaba.com - https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Bravo-waterproof-junction-box-waterproof-cable_60743861198.html

The power and the switch are from the same place. The JB is with all the other JBs in a relatively accessible place on the landing and only 1 cable has to go the awkward route. No JB under the floor in the room plus re-fitting a repacement floodlight can all be done outside. The only -ve is having an extra thing stuck on the wall.
 
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davesparks

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Thanks for that suggestion. I think option 1 but with the JB on the wall outside seems the best.

Something like this: Bravo Waterproof Junction Box Waterproof Cable Junction Box Connector In Ground Junction Box Waterproof - Buy Junction Box Electrical Connector,Junction Box Waterproof,Junction Box Waterproof Product on Alibaba.com - https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Bravo-waterproof-junction-box-waterproof-cable_60743861198.html

The power and the switch are from the same place. The JB is with all the other JBs in a relatively accessible place on the landing and only 1 cable has to go the awkward route. No JB under the floor in the room plus re-fitting a repacement floodlight can all be done outside. The only -ve is having an extra thing stuck on the wall.

Do the glands seal flat twin and earth OK?
That's an ugly box of dubious quality! I'd stick with the tried and trusted wiska box personally, their new rectangular on eis half the size of the standard box and fairly unobtrusive.

A gland designed for T&E will seal T&E quite well, a standard round on emay not.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #14
That Wiska box looks ideal. Thanks for the tip.

I've just checked the light. It's only 10w so should be fine on the lighiting circuit but it has no fuse. Given that it's going outside, should it have one to prevent all the lights tripping if there is a fault?
With the older more powerful halogen lamps they would often be connected to the ring main and be on an FCU.

Might it be better to do it that way with a cable to the switch in the kitchen?
 
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pirate

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Connect light to the end of the radial, with a weatherproof box on the outside wall...fit a quinetic switch anywhere you want, with the receiver in the weatherproof box.
 

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