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GrizzlyAK

Hi, I'm troubleshooting a 'smart switch' issue which is connected to an existing fluorescent 4' 2-bulb (T8) fixture where I have replaced the fluorescent tubes with LED drop-in LED T8 tubes (no re-wiring necessary, so ballast is still in the circuit). Vendor indicates that the switch may be malfunctioning because it is not spec'd for fluorescent bulbs and the ballast is the problem, yet it does say that CFLs are OK (both use ballasts, right)? Does anyone know how the current/voltage profile compares between the two installations at startup and during runtime? Would the LED circuitry reduce the spikes required by fluorescent tubes, or will the ballast react the same either way?

To note is that I have a second identical switch that is controlling a circuit with 3 such fluorescent fixtures all sporting the same drop-in LED replacements that has been running for even a longer time and I've had zero problems with it. I think the problem with this faulty switch (multiple ones have been tried), is perhaps with electrical interference from a different smart switch in the same plastic electrical box. Both switch mechanisms are electonic (as they can also be controlled via Z-Wave). There are other functions associated with the faulty switch that also don't work that should be completely unrelated to the type of load attached to it. I think it is interference, they think it is the ballast.

Finally, how different is the current/voltage profile in a circuit with tube fluorescents vs CFLs?

Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
As additional info, I just confirmed that both fixtures mentioned above have magnetic ballasts.
 

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Curr/Volt profile in circuits with Drop-in T8 LED Replacements vs normal T8 Fluorescent?
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