Discuss DIY wiring for Wi-Fi water heater switch in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

james_dxb

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Hey guys!

I have another DIY question. I have a water heater switch that I want to replace with a wi-fi enabled one. Below is the back of the switch, together with the current wiring coming out of the wall. The current switch is wired as follows: N1 N2 L1 L2 and 2x Ground. The new wi-fi switch only has: N L and L-out.

I'm a noob (please don't take offence at my incompetence!) so I'm a little worried that it won't be compatible. Pictures below. Advice appreciated!

IMG-6951.JPG IMG-7216.jpg
 
The switch is most probably fine to control a water heater with a power rating less than or equal to 3kW. I know it says 4400 Watts on the back but one never operates electrical accessories on the limit of their rating to avoid excessive heating and to be frank fire. So 20A switch is suitable for a 3kW element maximum.

It is not obvious which of the wires are the supply and which are for the heater. This means my best advice is to call in an electrician to work out which is which and then make the necessary connections - and to check the power of the water heater. It is important that after the switch is replaced it is inspected and tested to assure safety because water and electricity are a risky mix if things are not done properly and well - bread and butter for an electrician with the appropriate test equipment.

I expect there are some EF members in UAE who might be close enough to do the work for a fair price. Probably about 60-90 minutes work.

:)
 
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a water heater switch that I want to replace with a wi-fi enabled one

The existing switch is double-pole and may serve the function of an isolator, to enable the heater to be completely disconnected from the supply in the event of a fault such as overheating or earth leakage. The WiFi switch is only single-pole and not suitable as an isolator. Therefore, depending on the regulations and whether there is another isolator suitably located for this appliance, you might have to keep the existing switch and add the WiFi switch alongside it.
 

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