Downstairs toilet... regulations

G

Gareth_OJ

Hi,
Currently rewiring my new house and have accepted that the building inspector wants and extractor fan in the downstairs loo. However I'm struggling to work out what is acceptable in regards to "zones"
There is no shower or bath, but there is a small sink and the toilet.
The extractor requires a 3A fuse.
I can't seem to see a statement in the regs or onsite guide to what the zoning requirement actually is for this small room.

As a 3pole pull cord fused fan isolator doesn't seem to exist can I fit an Ip20 rated fused fan isolator switch to the wall above 2.25m ?
 
There are no specific regs for a wc, it is not a special location.
Fan is under building regs not electrical regs.
 
As above. Not a special location, as it’s not “a room containing a bath or shower”
It’s just common sense not to put a double socket next to the basin.

Although, it’s somewhere to charge your phone when you’re taking a dump
 
Last edited:
could it be Fentilation??

anyway, as regards fan... why not fedd separate from lights, switch on outside of room, alongside light switch. get rid of the dangly strings.... so 1970's. and if there's a window in the room, no need for a 3 pole isolator. (there's enough Poles over here as it is. :)).
 
telectrix said:
anyway, as regards fan... why not feed separate from lights, switch on outside of room, alongside light switch. get rid of the dangly strings.... so 1970's. and if there's a window in the room, no need for a 3 pole isolator. (there's enough Poles over here as it is. :)).
Click to expand...

Strangely I cant stand the ugly fan switch being on the outside of the room, will ruin my hallway feng shui! I've had to relent for the 2 bathrooms upstairs but the downstairs bog is having a dangle one inside the room. my building inspector seems to think there is need for extract ventilation even though its only place can be directly above the opening window...
Fan will have its own feed from the junction box in the ceiling with a switched live for the timer from the lightswitch.
 
Gareth_OJ said:
Strangely I cant stand the ugly fan switch being on the outside of the room, will ruin my hallway feng shui! I've had to relent for the 2 bathrooms upstairs but the downstairs bog is having a dangle one inside the room. my building inspector seems to think there is need for extract ventilation even though its only place can be directly above the opening window...
Fan will have its own feed from the junction box in the ceiling with a switched live for the timer from the lightswitch.
Click to expand...
or you could fit an occupancy sensor. no outside switch and no dangly string.
 
Do I really have to say it, no I won't lower myself to it.

Fart there I said it - the reason you need a fan
[automerge]1594126751[/automerge]
Ok - what I mean really is the need for a Isolation switch - 3A fused, 3 pole switch etc that you often see where can I find this info?
 
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Mark Wright said:
Do I really have to say it, no I won't lower myself to it.

Fart there I said it - the reason you need a fan
[automerge]1594126751[/automerge]
Ok - what I mean really is the need for a Isolation switch - 3A fused, 3 pole switch etc that you often see where can I find this info?
Click to expand...

Usually manufacturers instructions.
 
it can be isolated by turning off MCB. if there is a window, you don't need the light for maintenance. whoever wrote that reg. hadn't heard of head torches.
 
I often think when you hear if all lighting circuits were on one RCD this would not comply - yeah there is such a thing as a torch.

but something like a fan is there not a reg/requirement for local isolation/switching?
 
Gareth_OJ said:
Strangely I cant stand the ugly fan switch being on the outside of the room, will ruin my hallway feng shui! I've had to relent for the 2 bathrooms upstairs but the downstairs bog is having a dangle one inside the room.
Click to expand...

A 2g switch doesn't look that different to a 1g switch!

It's not a special location, and as far as I know doesn't require overrun, so just fit a 2g switch in the room and be done with it.
[automerge]1594143695[/automerge]
Gareth_OJ said:
Fan will have its own feed from the junction box in the ceiling with a switched live for the timer from the lightswitch.
Click to expand...

Has the BI specified an overrun timer?

A junction box on a new installation sounds like a very bad idea to me, even if it is MF I wouldn't accept it personally.
 
davesparks said:
Has the BI specified an overrun timer?

A junction box on a new installation sounds like a very bad idea to me, even if it is MF I wouldn't accept it personally.
Click to expand...

The BI has for the utility room next door so to please i'll fit one in the loo too. though i haven't seen anything in writing to suggest that its a requirement for the rooms.

The lighting circuit will run from the 6A RCBO in the CU to a Hager 804 which sends a line to the light switch and a line to the fan then a line off to the next 804 for the utility room light and fan then pantry light and finally hallway light.
For my understanding can you explain why it's a bad idea to use a junction box?
 
Gareth_OJ said:
The lighting circuit will run from the 6A RCBO in the CU to a Hager 804 which sends a line to the light switch and a line to the fan then a line off to the next 804 for the utility room light and fan then pantry light and finally hallway light.
For my understanding can you explain why it's a bad idea to use a junction box?
Click to expand...

Why can't you just use one of the normal methods of wiring a lighting circuit? You're giving the impression that you're intending to install a joint box for every room!
Common sense and basic good working practice, every joint is a potential point of failure, hidden joints are a nightmare for fault finding and a pain for anyone working on the installation in the future.
Plus unnecessary joints in a new circuitis a good sign that the person doing the work doesn't know what they are doing.


The utility room fan definately doesn't need an overrun timer, we always used to put these on the power circuit via an SFCU as there is no reason for it to be on a lighting circuit.
 
I didn't think the utility or the loo need an overrun timer but the BI has suggested it, so happy to fit. The extractors will have a 3a fuse alongside the isolator for each room as that's a requirement in the installation documents from the manufacturer.

No not every room has a jb, only two in this circuit and both are accessible.

By normal do you mean ceiling roses to distribute?

I'm using LED down lighters in the 4 rooms so believed that junction boxes were the most suitable way to send power to the switches. Other than running the supply line through all of the switch points what would your preferred method be?
 
Gareth_OJ said:
No not every room has a jb, only two in this circuit and both are accessible.

By normal do you mean ceiling roses to distribute?
Click to expand...

It's unusual to have somewhere accessible to locate a joint box, especially for ground floor lighting circuits.

By normal I mean either 3 plate or taking feeds to the switches.
Considering the current trends in technology and the recommendation. in the regulations I would tend towards taking feeds to the switches.
 
Gareth_OJ said:
Hi,
Currently rewiring my new house and have accepted that the building inspector wants and extractor fan in the downstairs loo. However I'm struggling to work out what is acceptable in regards to "zones"
There is no shower or bath, but there is a small sink and the toilet.
The extractor requires a 3A fuse.
I can't seem to see a statement in the regs or onsite guide to what the zoning requirement actually is for this small room.

As a 3pole pull cord fused fan isolator doesn't seem to exist can I fit an Ip20 rated fused fan isolator switch to the wall above 2.25m ?
Click to expand...
Yes it does, Click Polar PRW208.
 
123 said:
Buy a decent fan that doesn't need fused down, plenty exist :cool:
Click to expand...
I will be doing now that Andy78 recommended the environment ones (thanks), I have looked at many makes but all had statements in the installation instructions requiring fusing down which was part of my original thought for a fused 3 pole cord switch.
using Click stuff throughout the house so will go for the polar cord one
 

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Gareth_OJ

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Downstairs toilet... regulations
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