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It's been a while since I tested emergency lights and I just wanted to clarify something.

If the lights not working and the green LED light is off, is this an inverter and if the LED light is off and the lights still not working is this a dead battery?
 
If the LED is off then more than likely the permanent live is off. Double check the key switch as these are often left in the wrong position.
 
You need to approach it logically, the first step as in #2 is there actually power at the fitting. If you are just testing them then you state it failed to operate, no charge indication etc...
 
I realise how poorly that came across, and this is, no doubt another invite for mockery but here goes.. when you perform the annual 3 hr discharge test and your recording failures, is there a way of determining whether the fault is with the Battery or the inverter from a visual point of view without opening up light and using Multi meter? Cheers.
 
I realise how poorly that came across, and this is, no doubt another invite for mockery but here goes.. when you perform the annual 3 hr discharge test and your recording failures, is there a way of determining whether the fault is with the Battery or the inverter from a visual point of view without opening up light and using Multi meter? Cheers.

No. That is impossible. It could just be the indicator that has failed. Further testing would need to be done to determine the issue.

Just state facts as you know them. Do not put 'charger faulty' unless you know it to be true. All you would know from the inspection is that the charge indicator failed to illuminate after test.
 
No. That is impossible. It could just be the indicator that has failed. Further testing would need to be done to determine the issue.

Just state facts as you know them. Do not put 'charger faulty' unless you know it to be true. All you would know from the inspection is that the charge indicator failed to illuminate after test.
No. That is impossible. It could just be the indicator that has failed. Further testing would need to be done to determine the issue.

Just state facts as you know them. Do not put 'charger faulty' unless you know it to be true. All you would know from the inspection is that the charge indicator failed to illuminate after test.
No. That is impossible. It could just be the indicator that has failed. Further testing would need to be done to determine the issue.

Just state facts as you know them. Do not put 'charger faulty' unless you know it to be true. All you would know from the inspection is that the charge indicator failed to illuminate after test.
So just to be clear, you cant tell which part of the emergency light has failed
 
Are these standard bulkhead type fittings or something else.
 
I have a site with a few different emergency fittings ; they've been neglected over the years and I've a lot of failures. I want to order in parts as accurately as possible hence the question of telling from observation if its inverter or battery. In the past I've found a dodgy inverter will result in no illumination on green LED light.
 
I have a site with a few different emergency fittings ; they've been neglected over the years and I've a lot of failures. I want to order in parts as accurately as possible hence the question of telling from observation if its inverter or battery. In the past I've found a dodgy inverter will result in no illumination on green LED light.

If you are taking over the system there is much more to consider than just a 180 minute discharge test and looking at which lights work/charge.
 
why not just order a new fitting? you could order a new part and its not that part thats faulty its something else so you have wasted time and money and still have a faulty fitting in place. I know the fittings could be old and maybe a strange size but you could surely tell the customer it would be more economic with a new fitting. just my opinion as i have been down the road of getting parts before.
 
Don't bother ordering parts, order new fittings as it normally works out a lot cheaper.
 

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