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Evening all,

Was just wondering when extending a ring main from a socket (not a spur but keeping it as a ring ) I have always been told to crimp cables through but would it be acceptable to use wago style lever connectors instead, as the connections are accessible anyway inside the back box.

Regards
Harry
 
Evening all,

Was just wondering when extending a ring main from a socket (not a spur but keeping it as a ring ) I have always been told to crimp cables through but would it be acceptable to use wago style lever connectors instead, as the connections are accessible anyway inside the back box.

Regards
Harry

Why not just wire to the socket, if you are intending to put the connections in the back box, or am I missing something?
Wago lever connections are usually used for stranded cables. You can use the Wago push-in connectors. That would be fine. Or use crimps.
If using crimps then use a proper ratchet crimp tool.
 
If its not possible to replace 1 leg to avoid connections then you can use either as long as you use the correct rating ones and if using crimps use a ratchet crimper to terminate it correctly

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but i believe the ratings are...

Through (Butt splice) crimps:
19A Red
27A Blue
48A Yellow

Wago 773:
0.75 - 2.5mm = 24A
1.5 - 4mm = 32A
2.5 - 6mm = 41A
 
am I missing something?

The OP wants to extend the ring. One leg will be connected through the socket, the other needs some suitable connectors.

Wago lever connectors type 221 & 222 are suitable for all types of conductors, stranded and solid, and rated up to 32A. The popular push-wire type 773 2.5mm² size as mentioned above is limited to 24A which may be less than the cable in some situations. I would therefore recommend the 4.0 mm size or either of the lever types for jointing an RFC.

Some types of crimps are unsuitable for solid conductors, including some of the generic ones that wholesalers like to stock. I would only use a crimp terminal on a solid conductor if the manufacturer specifically approves it in the data sheet. I don't think one can apply a universal rating to butt crimps. They vary so widely in quality and construction that some are no good for 10A while others are probably OK for 50A. Again refer to the data sheet and use not only a ratchet tool but one with the die form recommended by the terminal manufacturer.
 
Last edited:
You’ll need to derate the wagos as well if using he in a MF installation....
 
The OP wants to extend the ring. One leg will be connected through the socket, the other needs some suitable connectors.

Wago lever connectors type 221 & 222 are suitable for all types of conductors, stranded and solid, and rated up to 32A. The popular push-wire type 773 2.5mm² size as mentioned above is limited to 24A which may be less than the cable in some situations. I would therefore recommend the 4.0 mm size or either of the lever types for jointing an RFC.

Some types of crimps are unsuitable for solid conductors, including some of the generic ones that wholesalers like to stock. I would only use a crimp terminal on a solid conductor if the manufacturer specifically approves it in the data sheet. I don't think one can apply a universal rating to butt crimps. They vary so widely in quality and construction that some are no good for 10A while others are probably OK for 50A. Again refer to the data sheet and use not only a ratchet tool but one with the die form recommended by the terminal manufacturer.
Thanks for the response, yh that's exactly what I meant. When I think about it as well numerous times on eicrs I've discovered crimped connections that have been poorly made and loose so I would have thought using these connectors would create a more human error free connection
 
The OP wants to extend the ring. One leg will be connected through the socket, the other needs some suitable connectors.

Wago lever connectors type 221 & 222 are suitable for all types of conductors, stranded and solid, and rated up to 32A. The popular push-wire type 773 2.5mm² size as mentioned above is limited to 24A which may be less than the cable in some situations. I would therefore recommend the 4.0 mm size or either of the lever types for jointing an RFC.

Some types of crimps are unsuitable for solid conductors, including some of the generic ones that wholesalers like to stock. I would only use a crimp terminal on a solid conductor if the manufacturer specifically approves it in the data sheet. I don't think one can apply a universal rating to butt crimps. They vary so widely in quality and construction that some are no good for 10A while others are probably OK for 50A. Again refer to the data sheet and use not only a ratchet tool but one with the die form recommended by the terminal manufacturer.
Lucien.. I use the CK ratchet crimping tool. I've compared it to cheaper models and it makes a better connection which seems effective. However, I'm not sure if it's 'die form'. Could you explain what that is and why it makes a better crimp. Also perhaps link to one that you would recommend (1mm +) if possible. Thanks :)
 
wagos for me. here's one i made earlier. :) :) :)
 

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HHD I meant the form / shape of the tool die nest that defines the shape of the finished crimp. Pre-insulated crimp terminals are not generally suitable for solid conductors, including the types that I use and recommend for stranded cable such as TE's Duraseal and PDG ranges. I had a quick look at the usual suspects (TE, JST etc) and did not see any, although I am not saying that none exist. The reason, I suspect, is that the minimum wall thickness of the crimp tube required to achieve ideal results with solid conductors requires higher crimp pressure than the insulation could withstand, and a multi-point e.g. hex or multi-indent crimp is needed to properly deform the conductor.

Uninsulated terminals for solid are available from many sources, e.g Klauke CU range, AMP Solistrand and Molex Versakrimp.
These can be insulated with heat-shrink, noting that many kinds of over-the-counter heatshrink packs do not provide equivalent performance to the original cable insulation and again it is advisable to use a branded product with guaranteed specifications.
 
HJH... the bottom line... in the real world... is to use Wagos. They are super easy and available everywhere. But as with everything, read the specs for the wago connectors to make sure they are the right ones. Crimping solid conductors is not as reliable or easy with potentially special tooling required.

It's a different story with stranded, but you're asking about domestic RFCs... so I'll ignore it.
 
Generaly crimps are only suitable for stranded conductors. To crimp solid conductors you need to use an indentor type crimp that pushes a 'finger' into the side of the crimp, usualy only seen in larger aluminium sizes ie 95 to 300 mm2.
 

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