Front foglamps not working, but why?

[3wheeler]

I hope someone can help me- I have installed new foglamps on my car. A new switch is also installed, and all wiring is good. I have also checked the connections at all points with a multimeter, and a probe. Turn the headlamps on, this enables the foglamps front and rear to be used. Headlamps and rear foglamps work OK. Turn switch to 'on' for front foglamps. Current at switch OK. Current at foglamp wires (power and earth) OK. Bulbs new, and light up using probe. Connect bulbs (Halogen H2 btw) with connectors to wires, and they don't work. I just don't understand! What is the problem? Hope someone can help, as it has to be obvious, I just can't see it!

 

[ruston]

Is the car a fibreglass three wheeler? Have you proven the earth connection if it is?

 

[3wheeler]

Is the car a fibreglass three wheeler? Have you proven the earth connection if it is?

Hi yes its a Robin. Nut and bolt rebuild. I have gone round everything, and the earth and power both make a circuit on the multimeter..

 

[static zap]

Still sounds like ,
a) Thin wiring / water rotted ... May get a voltage without lamp

but disappears when lamp present.
b) Earth connection on front fog lights will be reading 12V to another good earth !​

 

[3wheeler]

Still sounds like ,
a) Thin wiring / water rotted ... May get a voltage without lamp

but disappears when lamp present.
b) Earth connection on front fog lights will be reading 12V to another good earth !​

Yes its possible its water rotted, as its black when stripped back, but still the same diameter. I will check it again to a 'real' earth too, as it has got me quite stumped. Thanks for your help

 

[ruston]

A new earth feed to a good earth on the chassis, or linked to the negative output on the battery will solve your earth problem . Those vehicles are notorious for wiring as you describe . Leaving cable like you have will only lead to more problems as it will not carry the current to high wattage spot lights. You need to rate the cable to the load.
Check your wiring , and if you have more of what you describe; ideally it needs replacing as it will only cause future problems.

 

[3wheeler]

A new earth feed to a good earth on the chassis, or linked to the negative output on the battery will solve your earth problem . Those vehicles are notorious for wiring as you describe . Leaving cable like you have will only lead to more problems as it will not carry the current to high wattage spot lights. You need to rate the cable to the load.
Check your wiring , and if you have more of what you describe; ideally it needs replacing as it will only cause future problems.

Great, Thanks very much. This is the only 'black' wiring. All else is OK, apart from corroded connector blocks, which are good Lockdown work It was used by the previous owner, and old chap, for foxing in the woods so was a little rough around the edges, and the wiring is the last thing I am doing. Cheers

 

[ruston]

Good luck with it. The kingpin used to be a problem with the really old ones , so check your front wheel for play. The bushes wear away to nothing and the kingpin can snap off and you will lose the front wheel. The later ones were improved.

 

[pirate]

Crikey! You get all sorts of new stuff on here! Agree it's probably an earthing issue, and all "black" wiring should be eliminated. Good luck!

 

[3wheeler]

Good luck with it. The kingpin used to be a problem with the really old ones , so check your front wheel for play. The bushes wear away to nothing and the kingpin can snap off and you will lose the front wheel. The later ones were improved.

Thanks, its all new, nut and bolt. Only the wiring and some rubber seals are original. So it will of course be super reliable. Its a 2000year car so one of the last, and 'only' 20 years old, but some poor sod did 93000 miles in it

 

[ruston]

Got a lifetime left in it now lol. A reliable little engine in them in their day.

 

[3wheeler]

Got a lifetime left in it now lol. A reliable little engine in them in their day.

Should be, I've had it all rebult and 'warmed over'. Should be good for 45hp and two wheels now..

 

[PEG]

I cannot believe there are any good ones left back in the day,we tortured quite a few of them...Good little engines,that found their way to many pumps and grass trackers.

Put one of mine on it's roof 6 times,and on it's side... dozens...we even found out the minimum weight it needed in the rear,to wheelie it....it was a full Talco tool chest and some lathe parts

They all smelled the same,when hot,and,the saddest i ever saw one look,was the one an apprentice was asked to put over the pit....which he did,but at a brisk pace,and front-first...instead of the usual careful reverse

 

[3wheeler]

I cannot believe there are any good ones left back in the day,we tortured quite a few of them...Good little engines,that found their way to many pumps and grass trackers.

Put one of mine on it's roof 6 times,and on it's side... dozens...we even found out the minimum weight it needed in the rear,to wheelie it....it was a full Talco tool chest and some lathe parts

They all smelled the same,when hot,and,the saddest i ever saw one look,was the one an apprentice was asked to put over the pit....which he did,but at a brisk pace,and front-first...instead of the usual careful reverse

Superb! They're 'unique' and I've come close to rolling it myself. Blew the engine at 85 on the M40, which meant the restoration started sooner thsn intended!

 

[telectrix]

you could of course pimp it up:
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