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could the power main, which is wet, cause the issue with the downstream breakers

Not normally. A GFCI is only 'aware' of leakage on the circuit it protects, not the source of power. Provided there is power at the panel, the GFCI should work.

Do modern gfi breakers which have no test button,

Hold it right there... Is there such a thing? If there's no test button, are you sure they are GFCI's? Can you post pics or model number?

To be honest, if on a GFCI you push the lever first to off, then to on, and it does not energise the circuit, even with everything unplugged that can be, pretty much your only option is to call an electrician. Testing the cause of that, or replacing the device if it turns out to be faulty, is beyond the scope of DIY.
 
How do you test that they are safe/fit for purpose/functioning properly when you install them?
How do you test that they are safe/fit for purpose/functioning properly when you install them?
How do you test that they are safe/fit for purpose/functioning properly when you install them?
Not normally. A GFCI is only 'aware' of leakage on the circuit it protects, not the source of power. Provided there is power at the panel, the GFCI should work.
CALL AN ELECTRICIAN Lucien please


Hold it right there... Is there such a thing? If there's no test button, are you sure they are GFCI's? Can you post pics or model number?

To be honest, if on a GFCI you push the lever first to off, then to on, and it does not energise the circuit, even with everything unplugged that can be, pretty much your only option is to call an electrician. Testing the cause of that, or replacing the device if it turns out to be faulty, is beyond the scope of DIY.
Not normally. A GFCI is only 'aware' of leakage on the circuit it protects, not the source of power. Provided there is power at the panel, the GFCI should work.



Hold it right there... Is there such a thing? If there's no test button, are you sure they are GFCI's? Can you post pics or model number?

To be honest, if on a GFCI you push the lever first to off, then to on, and it does not energise the circuit, even with everything unplugged that can be, pretty much your only option is to call an electrician. Testing the cause of that, or replacing the device if it turns out to be faulty, is beyond the scope of DIY.
Not normally. A GFCI is only 'aware' of leakage on the circuit it protects, not the source of power. Provided there is power at the panel, the GFCI should work.



Hold it right there... Is there such a thing? If there's no test button, are you sure they are GFCI's? Can you post pics or model number?

To be honest, if on a GFCI you push the lever first to off, then to on, and it does not energise the circuit, even with everything unplugged that can be, pretty much your only option is to call an electrician. Testing the cause of that, or replacing the device if it turns out to be faulty, is beyond the scope of DIY.
Could you send a pitcher of the tester your referring to. Where I worked we had a division in our company that built panels. Done programming and they are the ones that had all the instruments to test various problems

Matt the question is how would YOU test them if you installed them
How do you test that they are safe/fit for purpose/functioning properly when you install them?
Matt29 the big question is how would you test them?
 
Then I am not sure what you meant by GFCIs with no test button!

Still, I think you will need the circuits tested for low insulation resistance or other problems. If the panel is subject to condensation, the GFCIs may be faulty as well. There are too many variables to advise effectively from a distance.
 
Here is a pic of the gfci breakers in my box.
That is essentially a Square D QO rcd or gfci in the States. As in #28 they are designed to detect and trip if an earth fault is 6ma or above, a Type A fault from what I gather.
 
Had an electrician install electrical in our boat dock, but none of the three square d gfi breakers are now working. I unplugged the overhead door motors. Still the breakers will not reset. Tested hot at all three breakers, and everything in the box looks clean and new, so I doubt lightning strike. Ideas? Could the incoming power line which is direct burial cable which comes in just above the water level, be the cause of tripping? On my way back from the lake, I realized that I had not reset the power. These breakers are post 2003 models, so do they have to be reset by turning off power to them?

I am just a diyer, so any suggesting will be appreciated. Called my electrician but he is, as usual, too swamped to respond...
UPDATE;
Thank you all for the helpful advice. I tried resetting all the way back at the meter, with no effect on resetting the GFCI breakers. Since I was now at the end of my knowledge, I hired an electrician. He checked it out and found that otters (or something) had chewed through the electrical cable feeding the dock, so we were getting no power to the dock. Repaired the broken cable, and all is well.
 
UPDATE;
Thank you all for the helpful advice. I tried resetting all the way back at the meter, with no effect on resetting the GFCI breakers. Since I was now at the end of my knowledge, I hired an electrician. He checked it out and found that otters (or something) had chewed through the electrical cable feeding the dock, so we were getting no power to the dock. Repaired the broken cable, and all is well.
Congratulations my friend and glad your problem is resolved
 

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