Switch will be in stud wall; cable currently running horizontally....looks like I may need to pull some slack through to run cables through top and bottom of backbox...or strip back sheath and bring through back of plastic box using a 25mm grommet. The 45A switch wiil be in a kitchen for an induction range cooker and I'd rather not use a longer type of switch that are usually used as shower isolators.
30 fathoms - He was a submariner
47mm with 95mm void in wall
[automerge]1590607631[/automerge]
47mm
[automerge]1590607893[/automerge]
deeper the better I'm told
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I'm glad your doing it ,I'm holding my breath .lol.
Don't know about contactor below worktop, but there's 2 or 3 contractors I'd happily put under the floorboards! Smaller cable?? Could have used 6mm and 32A breaker according to valve, but went with makers recommendation of 10mm and 45A breaker.
I have only got 31cm between the studs but by enlarging the holes I have managed to allow some slack in the cable to be pulled back and forth easier. By keeping the box central between the studs and maybe enlarging the cut outs slightly I should manage now. I've now got enough play in the cables to have the confidence to fit up the plasterboard now without leaving myself an insurmountable problem when it comes to connecting them up. I usually leave the cable cores quite long so they push into the box in a wide loop/corkscrew but I can see that keeping them short is the only way. Thanks for the advice.
You don’t want a long switch like a shower, ok.... what about a cooker control unit with a socket?
Uses a 2 gang box, but horizontally. Gives a bit more room to manoeuvre.
Uses a 2 gang box, but horizontally. Gives a bit more room to manoeuvre.
Yes of course. I'll recalculate. It's 18.4Kw and I've been fixated on having a 1 gang since doing the calcs for 6mm cable ....which wouldn't have allowed a socket included. Now I've got 10mm cable.... we'll see.
Thanks.
Not quite Scouse, Boats don't sink, they dive, and I was fortunate to surface the same number of times. Pull up a barrel, dit on....In the early 80s on a long dived patrol my Fleet Chief said his Dad had been on a longer dive than any of us....one lad rose to the bait and said not possible on a diesel boat....to which we were told that his boat dived in 1943 and hasn't surfaced yet.?true dit. I thought it best to quit whilst I'm ahead?
Sorry for not replying earlier, I've just come back on the forum to look for info and realised I never gave a proper answer. I left after serving 33 years and immediately wished I'd left 10 years earlier, however after 5 years working in civvy street I realised that I missed the discipline and teamwork. When I left I just didn't want to be at sea in my 50s..... 'been there done that' is how it felt. So in answer to your question, civvy street was definitely different and better for me at the time, but for job satisfaction the Navy was good for me most of the time.
Yup. This is why I usually operate in a committee/team of one: getting decisions is so much easier ?
Ref your question: Have you considered scrapping the first plan and re-routing to a big, over-specified rotary isolator in a cupboard? I did the same with some high-current bathroom fittings (see pic). So much easier to make neat and long-lasting terminations, especially on long runs with heavy cables.
The way things are usually done is not always the best way. I have similar
Totally agree. It's ok to say "it's always done like that" if backed up with a good reason, but to blindly follow is foolish. It's best to always be curious.
I've recalculated for a 10mm cable and I can use a cooker isolator with socket outlet as even with the 5A added for the socket the load is just under 32A, therefore I reckon the double backbox should give me the room to fit the cables in. I do like your plan B though....in my previous life I would never brief a plan to a senior officer without having a plan B in my toolbox!?
Did part of my apprenticeship putting them together. Luckily I never had to work in any of the more cramped bits. Worst was having to crawl on top of an air handler (just a fan-coil air cooler) in the engine room and lie on my chest with backside against a hull ring and legs dangling while wiring the darned thing up. Compared to that, it was cushy doing many hundreds of over-moulded inline connection up front in the sonar space.
Of course, even the best jobs are a bit ruined if there happens to be a team of caulkers working on the boat. Think "working in a tin can, while someone's beating the sh*t out of it with a windy chisel" ?
The subs I worked on are out of service now.
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