Discuss How do you properly drive sleeve anchors? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Recently I've been assigned to a new water park construction site and my days have been regulated to mounting and securing hundreds of feet of PVC conduit for protection against moisture. During my installation I've been mostly limited to mounting strut to concrete walls and floors in order to then use strut straps for the PVC. I've been able to use stand-off straps as well so my question pertains to mounting strut as well as stand-off straps.

After boring into concrete with a hammer drill, I must then use a sleeve anchor to mount the strut or standoff strap. I've been watching my journeyman electricians use a 3/8 nut driver with lineman pliers to strike the sleeve anchor into the hole. I've broken two nut drivers so far trying to do the same thing so I'm curious...how are you SUPPOSED to drive the sleeve anchor into the hole? Using lineman pliers doesn't seem to be effective in the case of stand-off straps because the strap gets in the way...do I need to carry a hammer?
 
I would generally use a hammer, but if there is obstruction as you say then look for what I would call a 'strike-through' nut driver with a full tang and metal cap on the back, or perhaps a 3/8 impact nutsetter with a 6" shaft?
 
I would generally use a hammer, but if there is obstruction as you say then look for what I would call a 'strike-through' nut driver with a full tang and metal cap on the back, or perhaps a 3/8 impact nutsetter with a 6" shaft?

Great suggestion. I've done quite a bit of looking around and while I was able to find an unlimited supply of strike-through screwdrivers of all sorts...I haven't been able to find a strike-through nut driver set...at all. It seems they either don't exist or they're not popular enough to show up in searches. I've been over milwaukee, klein and husky tools to find something like that and I'm coming up empty handed. I actually have a strike-through flathead (Demolition flat-head) driver and it's amazing...something like that in a nut driver would be incredible for what I've been doing lately, any suggestions?
 
Great suggestion. I've done quite a bit of looking around and while I was able to find an unlimited supply of strike-through screwdrivers of all sorts...I haven't been able to find a strike-through nut driver set...at all. It seems they either don't exist or they're not popular enough to show up in searches. I've been over milwaukee, klein and husky tools to find something like that and I'm coming up empty handed. I actually have a strike-through flathead (Demolition flat-head) driver and it's amazing...something like that in a nut driver would be incredible for what I've been doing lately, any suggestions?

If you're just hammering the bolt into the hole then subsequently tightening with the right nutdriver then just use your flathead strike-through in the hex part of the bolt (don't need to be an exact fit as you're just channeling force through it, just need to made sure your demo driver fits into the hex head on the bolt (making assumption that your bolt heads are the sort that can be screwed in with Allens as opposed to a socket?

If it does need a socket to tighten them macguiver a socket head onto a demodriver (welding or epoxy)
 
Hi are the masonry bits worn or cheap??
Some manufacturers of sleeve fixings,including Hilti,will not warrant fixings,if brayed in to position,as the design is all about force from the opposite direction?
90% of it,is the substrate you are fixing,to.

A good puff (.....don't bite) with a hole cleaner,used for cavity wall tie fixing can help ?
 
UK based here but if you are talking about what we call "Drop-In anchors" then they should come with a setting tool which you expand the anchor by inserting the setting tool and hitting with a hammer

See attached pic...
 

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