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Afternoon All,

DIY'er here, Just wanted to run through something which I'm pretty sure is simple but, I just want some claification.

I have some electric wall heaters that have a fused switch on the wall.

I have taken one down as I no longer want it in the room it is in. (obviously with power off etc)
I wanted to replace the electrical switch with a "blank face plate" so the heater can easily be reinstated later if desired.
I picked up one of these https://www.arlec.co.uk/product/connection-unit-20a/ (hopefully correct) - see attached for reverse also

Is it the case that I would have to just put the "live" wires in the left 2 screw connections and the neutral in the right 2 screw connections and attached the single earth cable to one of the others?

Or do i need to put wires together in the screw connectors? Or would I require something else and just ignore what is on the back of the new face plate?

Apologies if this a dumb question,
Cheers,

Richard
 

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Rockingit

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Mentor
Esteemed
Arms
Is it the case that I would have to just put the "live" wires in the left 2 screw connections and the neutral in the right 2 screw connections and attached the single earth cable to one of the others?
Yes, basically. You're needing to do two things:
1) Maintain the continuity of the ciruit (so 2 x lives stay together, etc)
2) Make them safe from shorting onto something or someone - hence using the terminals to secure them
 

Pete999

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Esteemed
Arms
Are the heaters "Off Peak" are they wired from the Ring Circuit? if yes you could always get your Electrician to swap the switch for a socket outlet, but you would need to have your Electrician to confirm it was safe to do so, or install a plank plate in place of the switch, the wires would need terminating safely, something only your Electrician could do.
Whilst it would be a relatively simple and cheap job for an Electrician to complete, in my opinion, it's not something a novice should attempt, to much for someone even with basic DIY skills, post your location and a member near you may offer to help you out, good luck.
 

Dartlec

Esteemed
Arms
Afternoon All,

DIY'er here, Just wanted to run through something which I'm pretty sure is simple but, I just want some claification.

I have some electric wall heaters that have a fused switch on the wall.

I have taken one down as I no longer want it in the room it is in. (obviously with power off etc)
I wanted to replace the electrical switch with a "blank face plate" so the heater can easily be reinstated later if desired.
I picked up one of these https://www.arlec.co.uk/product/connection-unit-20a/ (hopefully correct) - see attached for reverse also

Is it the case that I would have to just put the "live" wires in the left 2 screw connections and the neutral in the right 2 screw connections and attached the single earth cable to one of the others?

Or do i need to put wires together in the screw connectors? Or would I require something else and just ignore what is on the back of the new face plate?

Apologies if this a dumb question,
Cheers,

Richard
The face plate you have can be used in the way you want. It doesn't matter whether the Lines and Neutral go into the same screw connection, or in to the two separate ones, as long as they are correctly kept to each 'block' (Can't see if they are labelled, but it won't matter electrically as long as they are correctly kept together but isolated from eachother.

Another alternative would have been to use wago lever connectors to connect the cabling in the back box, then just put a blank front plate on.

I don't especially like the amount of copper that's on show on your appliance face plate - it's commonly used behind appliances in the kitchen where it won't be touched again - If this is somewhere more public, if it ever came loose from the wall then the 'hurty bits' would be rather more exposed than is usual with a socket or fuse spur. Not an issue for someone sensible, but if you have kids who might fiddle something to consider.

If there are two lines and 2 neutrals then there should be 2 earths too - They may be together covered by one piece of tubing, or twisted together - in either case you need to sure that both earths are correctly terminated, though they can both go into either of the earth screws provided.

Was the circuit you turned off for sockets? or specifically for heaters? If there are two cables it suggest there is a feed on to another heater, but if it was a 'ring final circuit' for sockets, on a 30A or 32A breaker/fuse, then it is especially important that the continuity of all conductors is maintained as things could work without it but with a potential overload on one leg of the circuit.
 
Thanks for all the comments,
So investigating further the 2 earth wires have been combined as Dartlec suggested.
The circuit is specifically for the heaters, so no link to the regular sockets in the flat.

So could the earths both be put into the same side or the blank plate or would they need separating?
 

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Dartlec

Esteemed
Arms
Thanks for all the comments,
So investigating further the 2 earth wires have been combined as Dartlec suggested.
The circuit is specifically for the heaters, so no link to the regular sockets in the flat.

So could the earths both be put into the same side or the blank plate or would they need separating?

I assume it's on a 16A or 20A fuse/breaker then?

No need to separate - better to keep them together in fact in most cases, Just be sure that the terminal is gripping both firmly, and not connected onto the sleeving, which is easily done.
 

Dartlec

Esteemed
Arms
If that is a ring final circuit that outlet plate does not comply to BS1363 and shouldn't be used to connect a ring final circuit.
The website does claim it complies to BS1363, though I am slightly surprised at the amount of bare copper showing on the live terminals compared to any socket or fused spur I've seen - but since the standard is only available if you pay I have no idea what the requirements are...
 
The website does claim it complies to BS1363, though I am slightly surprised at the amount of bare copper showing on the live terminals compared to any socket or fused spur I've seen - but since the standard is only available if you pay I have no idea what the requirements are...
I suspect that to be an error and that it should be BS5733. The Homebase site indicates BS5733.
 
I believe it is actually a 32A breaker, would that suggest I would need to have a higher rated blank face plate fitted instead?
 

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Dartlec

Esteemed
Arms
I believe it is actually a 32A breaker, would that suggest I would need to have a higher rated blank face plate fitted instead?
It probably suggests that you have a ring for the heaters (probably feeding several?)

That said, it is normally OK to fit a 20A rated socket/or 13A spur, because the supply terminals are rated to take the extra load that may exist on the circuit - it is the load side that is rated for 13A (in a fused spur) or 20A with some sockets - the standard BS1363 covers the issue. Though if Arlec's own site has an error regarding certification that doesn't fill me with confidence in their product.

Your easiest option might be to remove the flex from the existing fused spur as you appear to have done and then leave it connected to the wall - the switch won't do anything obviously.

An alternative might be to connect the pairs of cables in the back box with wago connectors such as these:



Then put on any blank plate that you like - the blank plate doesn't need a rating as it's only a cover for the enclosure.

The important thing is that the connection is good and continuous on all 3 pairs of connectors.
 

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