Discuss Main fuse protection in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Even with an intermediate fuse between the main fuse and consumer unit there is no guarantee one will blow before the other
With BS88 series fuses you get selectivity at ratios of 1.6:1 or more. So if the incomer is a 100A fuse then next one has to be 63A (or less) to achieve selectivity.

If you mix fuses and MCB (or MCCB) down stream it gets far more complicated and typically you get 3 regions:
  • Current below MCB rating = all happy
  • Above MCB rating, but fault let-through (I2t) less than pre-arcing of the fuse = MCB trips, fuse survives.
  • Fault current such that fuse pre-arcing I2t exceeded and both fuse and MCB go.
 
I have a 80 amp RCD after the meter fitted by an electrician.
Unfortunately the type used does not allow for differentiation from other RCD in the house.

my CU is old wylex so at best if one of my house RCDs triggers so does my main RCD but at least I can withdraw the fuses from the CU , reset the RCD and install the fuses one at a time to identify the circuit at fault.
 
I have a 80 amp RCD after the meter fitted by an electrician.
Unfortunately the type used does not allow for differentiation from other RCD in the house.

my CU is old wylex so at best if one of my house RCDs triggers so does my main RCD but at least I can withdraw the fuses from the CU , reset the RCD and install the fuses one at a time to identify the circuit at fault.
The rcd won’t trip at 80A, would need to be an rcbo.
Cant you remove that one if there’s rcd’s in the CU?
 
Hi all. Reassuring that this is an uncommon issue. Here's my use case. I have 2 CUs with total 180A on their main switches on a 100A DNO fuse. I load shift as much as I can into a 6 hour window on Intelligent Octopus.
That means 10kw of storage heaters, 7kw car charger, 3kw immersion, 3kw battery charger. 23kw already. Add to that the washing machine, tumble dryer, dishwasher, and then heaven forbid someone makes toast at night!
So in deep winter I could run somewhat over 24kw for several hours. I've not done this yet. But this, surely, would blow the fuse, right?
Thanks in advance
 
24kw is barely over 100a, it'll take another 20% or more for brief periods. I doubt very much you ever get anywhere near 100a. Dont forget your storage heaters only operate at night.
A 100a service head will inevitably show heat damage if it has been subjected to maximum loads constanty for long periods , they are not designed for this. I maintain a large property with extensive electric UFH, a large electric AGA, electric water heating, and a kitchen with every coceivable appliance. It has been running on a 60a head for decades.
 
Thanks for that. Yes the point is that everything I listed is on during the same 6h cheap electricity window. So I think I risk running over 100A for some hours at a time.
I suppose I need to look at pricing up 3 phase...
 
A cheaper option than have a 3ph supply installed might be installing a load shedding relay that will isolate heavy loads if total gets near 100A.
 
A cheaper option than have a 3ph supply installed might be installing a load shedding relay that will isolate heavy loads if total gets near 100A.
That's really helpful, thank you! I have set up something like this via my home automation setup - right now if it goes above 22kw then some of the storage heater are turned off. But it's a system that relies on the WiFi behaving so your suggestion is really welcome...
 
Not to encourage ignoring overload, but the fuse characteristics indicate that a 100A fuse won't blow until sustained current reaches around 130 - 140A. (I guess there's a specific minimum value in the standard, but I don't know what it is!)

IMG_0231.jpeg
 
A cheaper option than have a 3ph supply installed might be installing a load shedding relay that will isolate heavy loads if total gets near 100A.
Is there such a thing as a relay controlled by a CT clamp? So a device could be disconnected based on the overall draw? Can't find one but don't know what the right name would be. Thanks again
 
As DefyG said, it's a load shedding relay, I don't know if they are available in the UK, but in the EU they are available as multiple units that will switch off loads in progression if required to maintain the load below the incoming supply.
 
As DefyG said, it's a load shedding relay, I don't know if they are available in the UK, but in the EU they are available as multiple units that will switch off loads in progression if required to maintain the load below the incoming supply.

Should be Garo units available in the UK. It seems their products have been adopted by quite a few wholesalers since their shower priority board came in for some demand.
 
As DefyG said, it's a load shedding relay, I don't know if they are available in the UK, but in the EU they are available as multiple units that will switch off loads in progression if required to maintain the load below the incoming supply.
Thanks Mike, that's what I need. Only things I could find seem just to monitor another single circuit rather than the overall load. A link would be brill if you can... Thanks
 
Thanks Mike, that's what I need. Only things I could find seem just to monitor another single circuit rather than the overall load. A link would be brill if you can... Thanks
Thanks for the support folks. Turns out the best way for me is simply to upgrade my EV charger to one that has load management built in, like the Zappi or newer Ohme. Talk about making it complicated for myself eh?
 
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Is there such a thing as a relay controlled by a CT clamp? So a device could be disconnected based on the overall draw? Can't find one but don't know what the right name would be. Thanks again
Yes.
Google something like "split core ct current monitoring relay 100A"
This one has the disadvantage you have to feed the tail you're measuring through the hole. You really need a split core version:

Came across this, which when set up to the current you want (say 100A) could switch a relay or contactor in part of your installation:

But sounds like you won't need it now 🤪
 

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