If the junction box you refer to is on a lighting circuit protected by a 6A mcb or rcbo, or comes from say a 3A fused spur, then you could use that to feed a bell transformer for the doorbell.
You would need to use a transformer that is fully enclosed (ie insulated and with terminals covered)
Many are now designed to fit in the consumer unit, and would need an enclosure, - you could use this sort of thing:
(No personal experience of this supplier, this is an example)
sunnyelectricals.co.uk
Depending on the model of your Ring doorbell, you should check the required voltage of the transformer, and/or you may need to include a resistor in series with the connection, all of which is explained by Ring, and info is available on forums.
You would need to use a transformer that is fully enclosed (ie insulated and with terminals covered)
Many are now designed to fit in the consumer unit, and would need an enclosure, - you could use this sort of thing:
(No personal experience of this supplier, this is an example)
Ring Video Door bell power supply bundle with Wylex ESE2 enclosure & BG CUB1
Wylex ESE2 IP40 2-3 Module Insulated Enclosure with BG CUB1 8 to 24 volt bell transformer. Works with most video door bells. for example: Ring, Google Nest, Eufy ESE2 Insulated enclosure for 2/3 Module IP40 rated, protected from tools and small wires greater than 1mm CE/UKCA/WEEE conformity...
sunnyelectricals.co.uk
If the junction box you refer to is on a lighting circuit protected by a 6A mcb or rcbo, or comes from say a 3A fused spur, then you could use that to feed a bell transformer for the doorbell.
You would need to use a transformer that is fully enclosed (ie insulated and with terminals covered)
Many are now designed to fit in the consumer unit, and would need an enclosure, - you could use this sort of thing:
(No personal experience of this supplier, this is an example)
Depending on the model of your Ring doorbell, you should check the required voltage of the transformer, and/or you may need to include a resistor in series with the connection, all of which is explained by Ring, and info is available on forums.Ring Video Door bell power supply bundle with Wylex ESE2 enclosure & BG CUB1
Wylex ESE2 IP40 2-3 Module Insulated Enclosure with BG CUB1 8 to 24 volt bell transformer. Works with most video door bells. for example: Ring, Google Nest, Eufy ESE2 Insulated enclosure for 2/3 Module IP40 rated, protected from tools and small wires greater than 1mm CE/UKCA/WEEE conformity...
Oh thanks for that. I have a bell's transformer like the one you showed from screwfix.
I've seen they sell those enclosures separately as well.
Would the enclosure need to be indoors if tapped from the outside light junction box.so drill a hole through the wall?
Yes that transformer unit needs to be indoors.
I hadn't realised that your junction box was outdoors.
You need to ensure the IP rating is maintained by using suitable glands etc.
Brilliant thanks. So I need buy the glands separately I presume. Can I screw the transformer enclosure anywhere on the internal wall?
Prescribed zones suggest directly below or above where the cable comes through the wall.
If you can't do that, it would be better to route the cable outside on the surface, and take it up/down/sideways to where you can put the transformer in an acceptable place.
The low voltage feed to the Ring device can go where you like!
Is there a permanent 'Live' in the junction box or just switched live? (You dont want the door bell only working whilst the light is on)!
Yes the transformer can go outside if mounted within a suitably IP rated enclosure.
Oh thanks never thought of that. There's a L , N , E in the junction box.
Could the Neautral also be a live as well ad the actual live cable ?
Would I just check it with a voltage indicator
If you think that the L, N & E in the outside junction box probably go directly to the light (can be established as above with a tester), then unless you are happy to keep the light permanently on (eg if it's IR sensor etc), I would suggest you abandon using the junction box as the Ring supply, and think of a plan B! 
.
.There you go Shocks, your plan B -If you think that the L, N & E in the outside junction box probably go directly to the light (can be established as above with a tester), then unless you are happy to keep the light permanently on (eg if it's IR sensor etc), I would suggest you abandon using the junction box as the Ring supply, and think of a plan B!
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