nice, but not a patch on this:

 
it's not about that telectrix, it's about wanting to provide a professional and safe service. No matter how good you think you are, you don't have a torque mechanism in your wrist and I bet you have over or under tightened a mcb before. No ones perfect but we can all try to be

I have little time for useless gadgets
By the way,I and countless others "do" have a mechanism in the wrist
It has been calibrated over many years through experience,my own wrist tool works just fine ;)

I wonder what talking tool will be next :eek:
Maybe a talking hacksaw,it could have a little wheel on the top to get that cut "just right":cool:
Maybe a spring loaded hammer set to non nail bending mode,there must be lots of useless talking tool ideas out there :)
 
if you feel comfortable using one, then by all means, that's your preference. same as some like the notches in sidecutters for stripping, some don't.it's all down to persolnal likes.

It is about preference, and that can change as well, I wasn't a fan of the notch in sidecutters but now use them religiously.
 
What about MFT's, biggest tool out there. When I was a lad, it was just the bang test. Still times change. ;)

I fully agree with the above,I am not against change just because its modern
I think torque setting tools are essential in many applications
examples being engine heads,flameproof enclosures or maybe applications where expansion is important

We live in a world where threads are sometimes iffy to say the least,in the wrong hands (and that would obviously exclude yourself :)) they may make the work standard less safe
They are being promoted as essential tools and they are far from essential in domestic work,they have weaknesses that can make them a backward step in the wrong hands

The control and teaching bodies would be better placed insisting on Tels wiggle and pull being made compulsory rather than a tool that can be a backward step
 
and now for something completely different.no.1 the larch.....



ooops was supposed to be rthe monty python vid.
 
Torque drivers and wrenches have their place, and if used correctly then they will give the desired result, but if not used correctly then they will let you down.
If you want to use a torque driver on terminals then by all means go ahead and do so, but please learn how to use it correctly, and what will affect it's correct operation.
One point is that the metal will relax after you torque the fastener and you must then re-torque it after a time interval to make up for this.

the size, shape and material of the conductor in the terminal will affect what torque is required to make a good connection, also any contamination on the thread or lubrication will affect it along with the quality of the thread in the first place.
If you put a 2.5mm stranded conductor such as singles into a terminal and a 2.5mm solid conductor into an identical terminal then tighten them both to the same torque you will get a better connection to the stranded than the solid conductor.

There is quite a science behind getting the correct torque for a threaded fastening, and you can spend many boring hours reading about it online if you so wish.
 
I'm sure your a fine electrician, sure sounds like your the perfect example.

I have never had any issues with loose or over tightened terminals however I am new to the industry and Iv heard it mentioned before about torque settings and iv also seen a few sparks using them. I was just intrigued.

I better go and speak with quickfit and tell them to get rid of the torque impact guns and use a socket/wrench and some old fashioned man power. :p

You do that & at the same time ask them how many sheared wheel bolts they've seen due to incorrect use of impact guns, which are not torque guns.
 
Torque drivers and wrenches have their place, and if used correctly then they will give the desired result, but if not used correctly then they will let you down.
If you want to use a torque driver on terminals then by all means go ahead and do so, but please learn how to use it correctly, and what will affect it's correct operation.
One point is that the metal will relax after you torque the fastener and you must then re-torque it after a time interval to make up for this.

the size, shape and material of the conductor in the terminal will affect what torque is required to make a good connection, also any contamination on the thread or lubrication will affect it along with the quality of the thread in the first place.
If you put a 2.5mm stranded conductor such as singles into a terminal and a 2.5mm solid conductor into an identical terminal then tighten them both to the same torque you will get a better connection to the stranded than the solid conductor.

There is quite a science behind getting the correct torque for a threaded fastening, and you can spend many boring hours reading about it online if you so wish.

I use both 'analogue & digital' techniques, and whilst over the years I have a feel on how much to tighten a terminal, I guess if I started off down the gym and improved my muscle tone (:oops:), things might get a whole lot snugger. Whilst, its probably easier to tell, if something hasn't been tightened enough, how do your tell if something has been overtightened? Humans perceive things very differently. Both systems have their limitations. If a manufacturer suggests torque settings for their products, how would you demonstrate compliance, if required. I don't see years of experience, would suffice.

A torque driver tool is just that, a tool. Use it wisely, knowing its limitations. Have one in your 'toolbox' if you so wish.
 
I find that when you tighten on stranded 16mm² and go back after five minutes the copper has "relaxed" and you can tighten slightly more. If you solely rely on a torque screwdriver you might be falsely believing that all is good. As you may be thinking "it clicked" job done and give it no more thought.
 
I find that when you tighten on stranded 16mm² and go back after five minutes the copper has "relaxed" and you can tighten slightly more. If you solely rely on a torque screwdriver you might be falsely believing that all is good. As you may be thinking "it clicked" job done and give it no more thought.
Think you could apply that theory to most stranded conductors Vortigern, I always used to go back and tweak terminals before the onset of torque screwdrivers.
 
I find that when you tighten on stranded 16mm² and go back after five minutes the copper has "relaxed" and you can tighten slightly more. If you solely rely on a torque screwdriver you might be falsely believing that all is good. As you may be thinking "it clicked" job done and give it no more thought.

Correctly torqueing a fastener involves allowing a period of time for the fastener to relax and then re-torqueing it, also for larger values of torque it should be applied in stages.
 
I use one, more as a box-ticking exercise I have to say. I've been meaning to put it in the vice with kitchen weights and check the calibration since the "click" doesn't always feel appropriate, give or take, depending on the make-up of the conductor in the clamp.
Some MCB's will damage fine conductors at recommended torque, and that stacks up. The pressure on (for example) a doubled over T&E strand may be approximately half that of a single strand, and arguably at the same torque, a single strand of 1mm T&E might be subject to perhaps three times the pressure of the multiple strands of a 6mm T&E.
Torque settings, given the number of uncontrolled variables in what's being clamped at the top of an MCB are IMO really a method that NICEIC etc can be shown to be "doing their bit". For those at least, the calibrated elbow can be a better judge and can cater for the other variables in a more nuanced way, but we are not encouraged to say that.
 

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gazdkw82

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