M

markthespark

Hello I'm after so ideas of the best way to supply a kitchen island.


orginally I was told the island had a 13amp pop up socket and also LED lights around the plinth so was going to put a switch fuse on the kitchen wall with a 2.5 cable feeding a double socket in the cupboard of the island.

Now I'm told there is a 2500 watt dishwasher going in the island so I'm worried that the circuit will become overloaded if the dishwasher is on and the pop up socket is in use.

could I swap the switch fuse for 32 amp DP switch have both legs of the ring running into it and 2 new legs out of the load side feeding 2 double sockets in the island?

i want to do it this way as I want to be able to isolate the island of need be.

thanks
 
Cant see why not but would it not be better to just run a 20amp radial circuit to the island from the CU. How are you going the switch the plinth lights on and off ? , you might need a separate circuit for this
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

i assume that the plinth lights will have a remote control so ideally connect them to a switch fuse in the cupboard, running s new supply from the CU isn't an option as its a new build with chipboard floors and opposite side of the house.

I've never installed a pop up socket but I assumed that they came flexed up like an extension lead so either needed plugging in or connecting to a switch fuse.

what I might do then is scrap the idea of an isolated and just extend the ring into the island. Socket for dish washer and 2 switch fuses one for LED lights and one for pop up socket.

many thanks
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

i assume that the plinth lights will have a remote control so ideally connect them to a switch fuse in the cupboard, running s new supply from the CU isn't an option as its a new build with chipboard floors and opposite side of the house.

I've never installed a pop up socket but I assumed that they came flexed up like an extension lead so either needed plugging in or connecting to a switch fuse.

what I might do then is scrap the idea of an isolated and just extend the ring into the island. Socket for dish washer and 2 switch fuses one for LED lights and one for pop up socket.

many thanks

OK But never Assume any thing , It been a though years since I did Kitchens but always uses to fit a light switch by the door for under cup boards lights I guess now they do come with remote control but worth checking first.
 
could I swap the switch fuse for 32 amp DP switch have both legs of the ring running into it and 2 new legs out of the load side feeding 2 double sockets in the island?

Asking for my own learning: Wouldn't this essentially create a cross connection in the ring, at least when the DP switch is turned on?
 
Yes it would but as long as it is documented on the ECR ie two separate ring reading then technical there nothing wrong with it just not a good design and makes the cert look a bit messy
 
Yes it would but as long as it is documented on the ECR ie two separate ring reading then technical there nothing wrong with it just not a good design and makes the cert look a bit messy

Thanks, and again for my own learning: a single load of greater than 2kW should be on a dedicated radial circuit? This is just best practice again, and not something that strictly needs to be adhered too so long as the circuit it's on can cope with the load?
 
no, because he'd just be isolating the extension to the rfc with it off.

I read the OPs post as the 2 legs of the ring in (both terminated in the same feed terminals) and the 2 legs out (both terminated in the same load terminals) to create a 'mini' ring on the island - that would leave essentially one large ring that has a bridge or interconnection at the switch?

But the OP isn't clear whether the 2 legs out would be for a ring, or just a couple of spurs?
 
IMO, this all comes down to interpretation of the regs. a single fixed load of > 2.2kW should be on it's own circuit. an appliance such as a washing machine or dishwasher is only rated at 2+ kW when on heating cycle, and so can be connected to a rfc, as diversity will apply.
 
Replying to high tower

Yes But in this case a dishwasher would not constantly run at the power stated and not for long periods of time unlike say a water heater or panel heater so in this case I would say putting a dish washer with a 13 amp fuse on a ring final would fine.
 
Last edited:
Appendix 15 (informative) suggests some of the ways to comply with 433.1.204 are to locate socket outlets to provide reasonable sharing of the load around the ring, not to supply immersion heaters, comprehensive electric space heating or loads of similar profile from the ring circuit, connecting cookers, ovens and hobs with a rated power exceeding 2KW on their own dedicated radial circuit and taking in to account the total floor area being served.
 
Could you extend the ring to grid switches on the wall, then run individually isolated and fused sockets from that to underneath the unit?
If it's a new property it should be easy enough to run a separately switched feed with a neutral from the existing switch, under the floor and up under the unit behind the plinth, with the driver hidden somewhere; bearing in mind the island sockets will need to be accessible could you hide the driver here?
 

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Wiring to kitchen island with means of isolation
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