Discuss Angles on PVC Trunking in the Electrical Tools and Products area at ElectriciansForums.net

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I’ve never seen one before. They look interesting.
They are very good for precise cuts, the one I linked to is my preferred style as it is more versatile but if you do a search on Japanese pull saws they are available in different styles
Before I got a multi tool I would use the pull saw for undercutting architraves and skirting boards as they are quite flexible. I use them now where it is difficult to get the multi tool in or where I need a deeper cut than a multi tool blade allows. For plastics they don't seem to make as a rough cut like some saws do so for cutting trunking or waste pipes I find you can get a neat square cut
 
Looking good and filling any 'gaps' with caulk (which can look s......te after a few weeks/months) doesn't bode well for for the best of looks!
I always go around the edges with caulk. Because I’ve used a large hacksaw in the past it’s not the smoothest of cuts. Something like the Japanese Saw may change that. Plus its getting painted to match the room. A bit of caulk on the mitre joints isn’t so bad.

Any helpful suggestions from yourself?
 
I would always use the preformed angles and T's, box adaptors etc. for the most professional job but you've already dismissed that idea in previous threads.

I've tried mitre saws and whilst give a good 'edge' buildings are never 'square' so makes it very difficult to cut it perfectly!
 
I would always use the preformed angles and T's, box adaptors etc. for the most professional job but you've already dismissed that idea in previous threads.

I've tried mitre saws and whilst give a good 'edge' buildings are never 'square' so makes it very difficult to cut it perfectly!

I’ve not seen the angle adaptors. I just know when we were showing the client the end caps and t boxes they didn’t like them so asked if we could cut the Trunking and then smooth over it with some caulk. As they said it was being painted.
 
Keeping the customer happy is key, and it's not as if its a deviation from the regs (unless using singles and they show through gaps in the joints)! which there wont be if filled and painted.
 
problem with the manufactrured joints is thety are bigger than the trunnking itself so you end up with a gap along the trunking.
 
Staying in place from the start is great, but usually I would pop in a couple of screws to make sure it stays that way!

I can't be bothered with it seeiy as how you have to add a few screws to it

Also gets stuck in the wrong position if you're not careful
 
Staying in place from the start is great, but usually I would pop in a couple of screws to make sure it stays that way!
I always fix it with some screws
I can't be bothered with it seeiy as how you have to add a few screws to it
It is not that inconvenient to bang a few screws in and probably a lot quicker to fix than the non sticky trunking also on a horizontal fix you don't get the brick dust trail down the wall that has to be cleaned up

Also gets stuck in the wrong position if you're not careful
So it only sticks in the wrong position if you are not careful are you admitting to not being careful?

Not too bad if it's running along a corner or top of wall

Need a line drawn before affixing otherwise imo

Set the laser level on the floor and line it in seconds.
Or just use a 2ft or 4ft spirit level as a straight edge to fix it against
 

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