Bollard lights

[i=p/u]

Been asked to install 4 bollard type lights around the front garden/grassof a house, my first thoughts are dig holes fill with concrete, with a pipe comming through the middle. Anyone any other ideas for installation or have they come across any problems .

 

[i=p/u]

Could you put few breeze blocks in and fix to these

 

[uksparks]

I have a couple of all rubbishy post lights in my garden I am soon to change, I amgoingfor the KSR bollards, you buy a amount kit that I think you concrete in...

 

[Marvo]

I've mounted them on paving slabs before and buried the slabs about a foot in the ground, it makes it easier to straighten them again when idiots reverse into them.

 

[Richard Burns]

Avoid underground joints, ensure the wiring is accessible as possible, when the bollards or cable needs to be replaced it can be a nightmare.

Keep records of where the cables are run underground and give copies to the customer for later work.
Breeze blocks would probably not last long, there can be a lot of strain on the bolts, especially if hit or rocked.
Into concrete with a cable access pipe is probably best, though a couple of concrete blocks flat in the ground might be OK with the cable between them.

 

[NDG Elecs]

Could you put few breeze blocks in and fix to these

I may be wrong here but most breeze blocks are very permeable and would possibly be prone to freeze thaw actions which could cause premature cracking of the blocks. Basically water gets into them and in winter when the water freezes it expands and causes cracks on the blocks.

 

[Adam W]

I've worked with Aurora LED bollard lights:

The concrete method anchors them down well but it's a right faff to install, even more so when you have to move them.
With some bollard lights

I found the best way is to drill through a paving slab, fit the bollard to that, connect using a wiska box underneath it if space is tight, and sprinkle a light covering of soil over the top. Of course ideally the connections should go above ground, but they don't always give you enough space to satisfactorily terminate 2x SWAs.
If they're going around a car park or somewhere with vehicular access it's definitely worth getting sturdy wooden stakes in between them so the cars hit those instead of the lights.

If there isn't enough space for a paving slab you can drive a couple of bits of Unistrut into the ground and fix them to that. You may even find there's enough space between the Unistrut for a joint box.

 

[i=p/u]

yh think concrete is way to go but never thought of a uni-strut Frame. As for SWA , Im just going to use high tuff in plastic ducting.