D.I.Y. REWIRE-- A Step By Step Guide.

[telectrix]

1. Remove all heavy furniture from upstairs. Place in Storage.

2. Roll up all upstairs carpets. Ditto.

3. Lift floorboards to enable cable routing (not the ones that the plumber has wrecked, fitting central heating)

4. Move all downstairs furniture to centre of rooms and cover with dust sheets.

5. Cover all ground floor carpets with polythene sheeting.

6. Chase out from ground floor ceiling vertically to every point you require a fitting/accessory.

7. Now that you've realised that you are totally out of your depth, get on the phone to a qualified Sparks.

 

[Des 56]

Ban all sheds, well put.

Yes agreed,well put

"Sell and bash" being an anagram of Ban all sheds could be B+Qs motto to the Diy rewirer

 

[bugsy]

How the hell can rsmck be a senior member on an electrical forum and be a diy,er -------gobsmacked

 

[millwall ken]

How the hell can rsmck be a senior member on an electrical forum and be a diy,er -------gobsmacked

Volume of posts, surely you should know this by now mate.

 

[bugsy]

Volume of posts, surely you should know this by now mate.

yea I know but im trying to make a point

 

[rsmck]

How the hell can rsmck be a senior member on an electrical forum and be a diy,er

Post count ... but I generally would only assume people with the "Electricians Arms Member" status are guaranteed to be electricians

Oh and (unrelated to your own comments), I completely agree with ban-all-sheds above - In my case, I appreciate not every "DIY-er" is the same, I didn't just dive in and start connecting cables together. In my case;

Cables are appropriate sized (taking into account how their ran, e.g. clipped directly in open space or through insulation etc) and with appropriate protective devices.

There are no ring finals in my installation, this is a personal preference. I did consider it for the kitchen sockets.

My lighting circuits are a bit unusual - upstairs is conventional loop in (with the addition of 5A outlets) downstairs each light fitting (or 5A socket) goes back, individually, to a central dimmer

My supply is TN-S, at present the garage etc hasn't been rewired so the existing (inadequate imho) supply to the garage has been connected through a 30mA 20A RCBO. At some point in the near future this will be looked at and the cable connecting the garage replaced (it using the existing cable until then) - at this point I'll brush up on the exact requirements for outdoor sockets and how my supply type affects them

All cables concealed in walls are in safe zones and protected by an RCD, the only thing NOT protected by an RCD is the supply (surface mounted) to the Fridge/Freezer

Where cables are joined this has been done with maintenance free junction boxes (and WAGO connections). These are, despite being maintenance free, all easily accessible from the attic space and basement.

As the RCDs comply with the automatic disconnection requirements then supplementary bonding is not required. The main equipotential earth bond was replaced with 16mm when I replaced the consumer unit.

Appropriate testing is being done and the results recorded, albeit mainly for my own reference and reassurance since there's no point in me producing an installation certificate , using a Fluke 1652B meter.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

there's no point in me producing an installation certificate ,

Why not?

using a Fluke 1652B meter.

Calibrated?

 

[rsmck]

Why not?

Well, I could but it'd only be for my own reference... as no-one else needs a copy (LABC etc)...

Calibrated?

8 months ago

 

[bugsy]

opinion based your your last post with regards to testing, calibration and general approach I (in my opinion ) would not class you as a general DIY er however other slightly informed ( a little knoledge is dangerous ) DIYers may not take the same approach and therfore in my humble opinion still think that any electrical work should be carried out by professionals , I would however like to point out that should you have a problem with the installation or an unexplainable fire your home insurance will be void

 

[rsmck]

opinion based your your last post with regards to testing, calibration and general approach I (in my opinion ) would not class you as a general DIYer

Thank you

I would however like to point out that should you have a problem with the installation or an unexplainable fire your home insurance will be void

Much as I expect this is very unlikely, I did confirm before starting this project that my insurance company had no issue with it based on something similar someone else had said. Their opinion is that as long as the work is carried out to the current building regulations whether or not it is done by a 'qualified' person is irrelevant.

Obviously the situation may be different in England where different Building Regulations (e.g. Part P etc) apply or with different insurance companies. Indeed my understanding is that Part P pretty much prevents a full rewire being carried out without notifying the local authority and being qualified and a scheme member (or having the installation inspected) - although I don't pretend to be too knowledgeable on Part P as it is not applicable where I live.

 

[Lee Kerr]

Don't you have to do a periodic inspection on a whole house if your doing a rewire or partial rewire ?
were i work we test before and after any rewire full, bathroom or kitchen
can anyone confirm this ?

 

[IQ Electrical]

A periodic inspection before a rewire? What's the point of that?

Good practice before a board change or partial rewire but you don't HAVE to.

 

[FAA Greenie]

If I turned up to start a rewire and steps 1-5 had been carried out. I would be a VERY happy man. :8:

 

[malcolmsanford]

Why would you want to carry out a PIR on a rewire?

On a partial re-wire or adding an additional circuit then no you have no recourse to carry out a PIR on any part of the existing installation. You just need to ensure that the existing installation comes up to to standards as in regulation 131.8

 

[KIERZE]

Look mate, sorry to burst your bubble but 99% of DIY sparkies ain't got a scoobie what they're doing. Its as simple as that. Sure they may be able to follow a nice wiring diagram but they won't have a clue when it comes to testing, safe zones for a bathroom, cable calcs etc etc. So whilst you may be able to convince your missus that you are saving a few quid - you are mugging yourself off at the same time. If DIY electrics was such an easy thing then it wouldn't be banned in most countries. However enjoy your DIY electrics whilst you can, because it will be banned here soon as well. Part P - Do you know what this is by the way? Is the first step to stopping Mr DIYer.
Sorry mate, but amateur electrics kill.

Part P does not stop DIY are you sure you know?, it simply ensures it is tested by a competent person.
I am a qualified lift engineer with Level 4 qualifications in electrical engineering and electrical/mechanical testing in the lift industry, I am competent in installing/testing and fault finding on electrical equipment single phase and three phase. However, I am not authorised to test domestic wiring as I have not completed the very narrow criteria to satisfy CPS . I would use these forums to get peoples advice on complying to the regs. I am more than competent to carry out the work in my home, then get a BC to sign it off.

 

[Marvo]

This thread is 2 1/2 years old.

 

[Guest55]

theres nothing that narks me more than a pointless thread resurection.


grrrr.

;-)

 

[markc123]

Part P does not stop DIY are you sure you know?, it simply ensures it is tested by a competent person.
I am a qualified lift engineer with Level 4 qualifications in electrical engineering and electrical/mechanical testing in the lift industry, I am competent in installing/testing and fault finding on electrical equipment single phase and three phase. However, I am not authorised to test domestic wiring as I have not completed the very narrow criteria to satisfy CPS . I would use these forums to get peoples advice on complying to the regs. I am more than competent to carry out the work in my home, then get a BC to sign it off.

Part-P does anything but ensure it is tested by a competent person actually.

Just a scenario, as i'm interested to hear your opinion....

Mr.Domestic-Electrician lives in rented accommodation in a block of flats, and these flats happen to have a lift in operation.

Now Mr.Landlord realises one of his tenants are an electrician, and asks him to look at the 'faulty' lift. Would you as a 'qualified lift engineer' be happy if Mr.Domestic-Electrician had a go at fixing the lift ?

 

[KIERZE]

Part-P does anything but ensure it is tested by a competent person actually.

Just a scenario, as i'm interested to hear your opinion....

Mr.Domestic-Electrician lives in rented accommodation in a block of flats, and these flats happen to have a lift in operation.

Now Mr.Landlord realises one of his tenants are an electrician, and asks him to look at the 'faulty' lift. Would you as a 'qualified lift engineer' be happy if Mr.Domestic-Electrician had a go at fixing the lift ?

Thanks for the reply.

Firstly Lifts come under a separate standard. BS7255 Safe working on lifts. This standard explicitly states the qualifications required to work on lifts, which is a minimum of an NVQ3 in lift engineering, obviously due to the nature of the environment (moving parts/crushing) and other specific procedures. so your scenario would be against the standard and would not be permitted. However, for non lift engineers there is a basic qualification EOR202 LEvel 2 Basic lift safety. Which would allow an electrician to work in a lift shaft, but not on the lift equipment. for example he would not be able to work on the lift equipment itself but could work on say a sump pump not associated to the lift but is in the lift pit.

 

[KIERZE]

just to clarify, what I was referring to in relation to part p was that the requirement was to, obviously install to BS7671 (does not have to be a qualified electrician) and have it tested to confirm (by a qualified electrician registered on an approved contractor scheme).

 

[Kate]

This thread is 2 1/2 years old.

Grrrr.....just read most of this thread....and it wasnt until your comment I checked the date. Ah well, gave me something to read with brekkie.