FIRST HOME - Help with new Consumer Unit

[JK-Electrical]

My issues have been:
Cage clamp terminals stripping their threads before tightening
RCDs not meeting times
Flimsy blanks that fall out
Poorly made bars and screws that can also strip easily

I experienced pretty much the same set of problems with a BG board that I fitted a couple of weeks ago. One of the meter tails kept slipping out of the cage clamp. An RCD was found to be defective. This is the second - and final - time that this has happened to me with a BG board, and some of the screws on the neutral and earth bars were quite stiff to turn. In addition, I had a titanic struggle to get the lid aligned. NEVER again.

 

[Rpa07]

And that's the problem with these cheaper boards that will inevitably be fitted by the chancers, poorly fitted and with little or no testing going against good workmanship from the get go. How many future faults will be incubating by the fitting of these cheap inadequate boards by cheap and inadequate fitters?

 

[DaniQ]

Thank you to everyone for your opinions and ideas.

I removed part of the plasterboard on the wall where the CU has to be fitted. It is a bearing wall with space of 320mm in between the studs, I expected to have a bit of luck and get at least 360mm to get a normal CU but I wasn't lucky this time.The space in between plasterboard is 85mm.

I have been searching for the right size of box but I can''t find any Dual RCD box to fit there with a minimum of 7 MCBs.

I would love to get a Design 10 Flush Consumer Unit by Hager with 10 ways and get the main switch plus 8 RCBOs but we are talking of over £250 and It doesn't give much room for future upgrades.

Also I have seen a Wylex one which I could fit removing the plasterboard on the back and fitting a new solid wood board on the top of the plaster (screwing to the timber, of course) to make the wall 12mm deeper. It shouldn't be to difficult.
Wylex Metal 17th Edition Amendment 3 7W High Integrity + 7 MCBs Consumer Unit - Toolstation - https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electrical/d190/Wylex+Consumer+Units/sd2615/Wylex+Metal+17th+Edition+Amendment+3+7W+High+Integrity+%2B+7+MCBs+Consumer+Unit/p67344


I could take out an RCD and fit individual RCBOs to get extra space from a "two way" RCD ending with:


11 SPACE
RCD 1
32A Socket Ring Main
6A Smoke Detector and Lights
16A Immersion heater - in case the gas boiler fails
6A Gas Boiler


RCBO
32A Induction Hob
32A Separate Oven
32A Kitchen Ring Main
16A Outside Sockets
40A Electric Shower



What do you think about this idea? Also do you think I could combine any anything to save space in the CU?

Again, Thank you very much for all your help

 

[Octopus]

^^ that board DOES NOT have RCD's it has rcbo's

Read my earlier post - it's obsolete - and needs changing ....

 

[DaniQ]

^^ that board DOES NOT have RCD's it has rcbo's

Read my earlier post - it's obsolete - and needs changing ....

Yes, this is what that post is about, replacing this CU. I'm trying to find the right one to fit in between the timber.

 

[telectrix]

if that stud wall is not load bearing, you could probably get away with chopping a piece out of 1 of the vertical timbers. maybe to 1 where your hand is in pic#1. and reinforce with a couple of noggins.

 

[SJD]

You could take all the plasterboard off, and move one of the studs a few inches, to gain a bit more width.

You could also fit a dual RCD board but remove one of the RCDs and instead fit a few RCBOs and the remaining RCD, that will win you 2 slots.

 

[DaniQ]

if that stud wall is not load bearing, you could probably get away with chopping a piece out of 1 of the vertical timbers. maybe to 1 where your hand is in pic#1.

Is there any easy way to know what type of wall this is?

 

[telectrix]

stud walls are generally not load bearing. load bearing walls are generally masonry and if you look directly above, upstairs, you'll see if there's a wall directly above.

 

[Midwest]

I don't think the Polish electrician even exists, if he does his written English is very good. Better than mine.