Discuss Help! Netatmo Wireless Thermostat installation on ideal mini c28 in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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JonnyHibbert

(I did post this in the central heating section too, but i thought it might be seen more here...sorry if that's not allowed)

This was supposed to be simple, but I'm struggling to wire up Netatmo wireless relay to the boiler and the Netatmo forums are a ghost town.

Current setup is a wired thermostat onthe wall, that I want to disconnect entirely and replace with the wireless netatmo thermostat.

In the first image below is the default wiring before i touched anything.

The second image is the default with the red and black removed. I connected the netatmo relay wires brown and blue to A and B (marked myself in paint) which I believe is for power, and the two other wires into C and D, which I think is the thermostat controlls.

The relay lights up but the boiler does not ignite, either through hot water turning on or through pressing the relay button.

This is possibly being caused by built in control panel on the boiler?
The wiring and instructions for my boiler are found here
http://idealboilers.com/installer/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2013/08/mini_is321.pdf

Can anyone spot what I might have done wrong?

Help! Netatmo Wireless Thermostat installation on ideal mini c28 thermostat orignal - EletriciansForums.net Help! Netatmo Wireless Thermostat installation on ideal mini c28 thermostat - EletriciansForums.net
 
Where does the Grey cable go, is that the thermostat wire ?

Did you check system compatibility first ?

I did check compatibility, and according the the Netatmo website it should work.

I'm unsure where the grey wire goes to be honest, it does not seem to be connected to anything - should there not be a wire going into the corresponding opposite terminal, between C and D for grey to be connected?

If it helps at all, this is the picture of the whole wiring:
Help! Netatmo Wireless Thermostat installation on ideal mini c28 fullwirin - EletriciansForums.net
 
Hi Johnny: Sorry I should have been more specific, the Grey cable with the Red / Black wires.

Have you correctly identified the wires in the old thermostat and wired the Netatamo to the control wires ?
 
I am a 100% novice with anything electrical, even looking at a wiring diagram, so this has been a huge learning curve for me so far.

I believe I have identified the thermostat wires, which are the red and black wires that you can see in the first two images. I do not know for sure which is the control wire though - from what I've shown you so far, can you point me in the right place?
 
In the wall thermostat that you removed, how many wires were there ?


Two, Red and Black.

Just to clarify, the wall thermostat is currently still connected - i disconnected the red and black from the terminal in the first image, but did not touch the wall thermotat it's self. My plan was to leave it there incase i want to go back to a wall-thermo in the future.
 
Hi Johnny: So what wires is the new stat connected to ? The installer manual shows it connected in place of the old stat and using the wiring from the old stat.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I installed the wireless reciever and installed the blue and brown wires of the reciever into A and B in the first image, removing the wires that you cans see in the pic (the double blue and brown). This provided the power to the reciever as expected.

I then installed the two controller wires from the wireless reciever into C and D, or where the red and black wires had been previously. As far as I could understand the instructions, i thought that was correct.

The problem seems to be this setup does not pass the power through to the boiler, so it does not ignite even with the hot water tap being turned on.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
OK: The installation sheet I have from the Netatmo website only shows 2 wires connecting to the new thermostat not 4.
Maybe a dumb question but have you installed the batteries ?
 
So i havent actually touched the thermostat part of the netatmo yet, only the wireless relay. In the instructions the relay/reciever should be able to turn the boiler on and off without connected to the thermostat. Also the hot water does not trigger the boiler to run when connected like i describe.

For clarity, the image below is the wires that come from the Netatmo reciever/relay. I connected the brown and blue, replacing the current brown/blue wires, and the black grey replaced the black/red, but that did not work and stopped the boiler igniting.

Help! Netatmo Wireless Thermostat installation on ideal mini c28 20170504_155610 - EletriciansForums.net

I keep coming back to this having something to do with the control pannel that is on the boiler, but I could be wrong. The below is the relevant part from my boiler manual, but im not sure how to translate this into what it actually is:

Help! Netatmo Wireless Thermostat installation on ideal mini c28 20170504_160131 - EletriciansForums.net
 
Yeah sure I should have clarfied this:

Netatmo Energy | Thermostat and Valves | Smart Heating - https://www.netatmo.com/en-GB/product/energy/thermostat/installation/

So option one is you replace the wired thermostat, which is where you plug the relay into the wall and wire the new netatmo into the wall replacing your old one. I think I could do this relativley easy, but it's not the setup I want.

I have been trying to do the "replace a wireless thermostat" option, but in this case I'm installing a wireless for the first time and removing the wired one. I thought that would be easy enough to do...
 
Hi Johnny: So that's where the confusion happened, you've got Brown / Blue to the Left hand block on the relay ?
 
Specialist: I installed the brown/blue wires from the relay into A and B on the second image, replacing the brown and blue that were wired in already. I then tucked the disonnected brown/blue wires down and out of the way, but did not connect them anywhere else.

This setup did give the relay power, so i persumed that part was right?
 
OK why did you take the original Brown / Blue out ?
You said the Red / Black go to the stat.

With all due respect to you, it may now be time to call a local sparks to look at it.
That way he can look the wiring & work out where everything connects.
 
OK why did you take the original Brown / Blue out ?
You said the Red / Black go to the stat.

With all due respect to you, it may now be time to call a local sparks to look at it.
That way he can look the wiring & work out where everything connects.

You're right it may well be the right time :rolleyes:

The Netatmo relay has a blue and brown wire that needs to be wired in, does this not replace the blue and brown wire that are labeled as A and B in my image?

The second set of wires on the relay then need to go somewhere too. I thought they would replace the black/red, but this didnt work.
 
It looks like power comes in to the boiler through the white flex to the terminals marked AB in the first picture. This continues into the boiler on the Brown/Blue/Greenyellow. If you have removed these then the boiler will no longer have power.

On terminals CD the Blue seems to pair in with the Neutral connection (which doesn't correspond with the wiring diagram but I guess provides a common ground). The diagram suggests that the thermostat needs to link Red and blue and an optional frost stat links the grey and blue.

If you need power to your wireless thermostat, this needs to be paired with the Brown/blue/greenyellow cables in the AB terminal.

As others have said it is probably a good idea to get an electrician in as it is impossible to confirm any of that without testing, and if you remove the wrong cables and just tuck them in to the case you could leave the entire boiler live and unearthed, and potentially other parts of the heating system as well if they are not independently bonded.
 
If you have removed these then the boiler will no longer have power.

This makes sense then. I wont do anything further myself - no point risking my boiler/my life.

Are you saying the relay should be wired into the terminal along with the current wires, rather than replacing them? Because I thought that, but as it is they dont fit so I'd have to get someone to rejig the wires or something.
 

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