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Paul Downham

Hi all,

my 1st post on the forum so please be gentle!!

I am about to install a new oven and hob in a gutted kitchen. No fuse yet, no circuit cables installed. Could someone just confirm that I am correct with my selection.

Oven 2380W
Hob 6600W

Total 9Kw, works out to draw 39Amps.

If I wish to power both from 1 circuit, 10mm T&E (enclosed in thermal wall) can carry 46Amps. So, Cable is up to the job, a 45Amp breaker will cover the load AND protect the cable.

I run the 10mm cable to a 45A fused cooker switch, run this down the wall to the cooker point and then connect both oven and hob to the point. All protected by the 45Amp MCB!!

What do you think?

All the best, Paul
 
Hi all,

my 1st post on the forum so please be gentle!!

I am about to install a new oven and hob in a gutted kitchen. No fuse yet, no circuit cables installed. Could someone just confirm that I am correct with my selection.

Oven 2380W
Hob 6600W

Total 9Kw, works out to draw 39Amps.

If I wish to power both from 1 circuit, 10mm T&E (enclosed in thermal wall) can carry 46Amps. So, Cable is up to the job, a 45Amp breaker will cover the load AND protect the cable.

I run the 10mm cable to a 45A fused cooker switch, run this down the wall to the cooker point and then connect both oven and hob to the point. All protected by the 45Amp MCB!!

What do you think?

All the best, Paul

Just beware that the oven cable will be protected by a 45A device-what size is this cable?

If it checks out, you can use this: Click 45a Easyfit Dual Appliance Cooker Outlet Plate
 
iq thats looks the nuts "Click 45a Easyfit Dual Appliance Cooker Outlet Plate" not seen them about before. must make life a lot easier!
 
are you going to apply diversity to the cooking appliances?
Ah, yes, just checked this out in the regs book.

"The first 10A of the rated current plus 30% of the remainder of the rated current plus 5A for an integral socket "

So,

39Amps, minus 10 = 29Amps
29*30% = 8.7Amps
8.7+10+5 = 23Amps

However, to be on the side of safety I think I'll go with the original plan and use 10mm. (I am thinking of Xmas when everything is on). I know I will sleep better for it!
 
go for it, no reason why not to go up a size if it makes you feel better, just a bit more of a pain in the terminations department and cost.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi all,

a bit of a dilemma now.

Oven - 2380w draws max 10Amps (says it needs a 13A fuse)
Hob - 6600w draws max 28Amps

So, original plan was 10mm cable, 45amp cooker switch BUT problem is we have 45Amp fuse for 13Amp oven.

Could put in a 6mm cable for hob only, this has 34Amp capacity and could install 32Amp breaker as hob draws max 28Amps.
Could then plug oven into kitchen ring as it draws 10Amps max. Rest of ring has kettle, Fridge etc....

what do you think?
 
put the oven on a 13a switched fused spur off of the ring, and as you say the 6mm for the hob.

danny
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi all,

a bit of a dilemma now.

Oven - 2380w draws max 10Amps (says it needs a 13A fuse)
Hob - 6600w draws max 28Amps

So, original plan was 10mm cable, 45amp cooker switch BUT problem is we have 45Amp fuse for 13Amp oven.

Could put in a 6mm cable for hob only, this has 34Amp capacity and could install 32Amp breaker as hob draws max 28Amps.
Could then plug oven into kitchen ring as it draws 10Amps max. Rest of ring has kettle, Fridge etc....

what do you think?

I may be getting confused here but your MCB is for cable protection (in this case your 10mm csa). If your taking your oven off a 13a fused spur then that protects the flex. I think you may have problems getting your cable into your spur then from there onto the cooker outlet so make sure you come from the cooker outlet to the spur.

Failing this 6mm for the hob applying diversity and ring final for your oven.
 

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Installing a new oven & hob - cable and MCB size
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