Discuss Is it ok for competent person to replace CU then get third party to test/certify in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

That would be up to the person you get to test and notify the job for you.

You should have them in first to assess the job and probably be involved in the design elements.

They would have to be willing to do such a task. Many won't be.

They would have to be registered with a third party notification scheme. Many aren't.

They would have to assess your competence and be satisfied with the standard of work.


Any reason you want to do this apart from the perceived notion of saving a few quid ?
 
you can certify the job yourself. it's only part pee notification that would possibly be a stumbling block if and when you sell house.
 
Honest advice
NO
there are a lot of other parameters to take into account, and until it is inspected you and your family are at risk
pay a professional to do it, and rectify any other faults found at the same time
that will be about 1/10th of a CO-OP funeral
 
Honest advice
NO
there are a lot of other parameters to take into account, and until it is inspected you and your family are at risk
pay a professional to do it, and rectify any other faults found at the same time
that will be about 1/10th of a CO-OP funeral
OP has ONC Elec. Eng. and classes hin=mself as competent. according to BS 7671, that's sufficient for him to undertake the work. part pee compliance is another matter. don't get me started on the fact that a 5 week course guy who's joined niceic as a domestic installer ( not a qualified spark) can do this work legally, whereas a qualified spark of 40 years experience on top of "proper" qualifications is barred dfrom doing it.
 
OP has ONC Elec. Eng. and classes hin=mself as competent. according to BS 7671, that's sufficient for him to undertake the work. part pee compliance is another matter. don't get me started on the fact that a Electrical Trainee who's joined niceic as a domestic installer ( not a qualified spark) can do this work legally, whereas a qualified spark of 40 years experience on top of "proper" qualifications is barred dfrom doing it.
aha I didnt see that
being old technology is not my greatest asset
however a recent weeks work rectifying problems in a property wired by a man who had more electrical qualifications than you could shake a stick at makes me a trifle suspect
thats why I pay a motor engineer to maintain the batmobile, a motorcycle engineer to maintain my Guzzi, and the wife to cook
 
Whatever route you take, given this time of social distancing, you don't want to go swopping out your consumer unit and find that there is a fundemental problem that you cannot resolve (even though you deem yourself competent).

Even with no social distancing you'll be hard pressed to get an electrician to come and bail you out. (I'd be laughing down the phone at you)
Given the current set of circumstances you'll be stuffed.

PS do you have a set of calibrated test equipment to allow you to do all of the required tests?
 
That would be up to the person you get to test and notify the job for you.

You should have them in first to assess the job and probably be involved in the design elements.

They would have to be willing to do such a task. Many won't be.

They would have to be registered with a third party notification scheme. Many aren't.

They would have to assess your competence and be satisfied with the standard of work.


Any reason you want to do this apart from the perceived notion of saving a few quid ?
Hi, I know that whoever takes the job on is going to have a hard time pulling the cables out of the back of old fusebox as some monkey back in 78 "stapled" twin and earths to plasterboard woodwork, as seen with snakescope! In view of what you said I shall just free up the cables thru light switch back box opposite, never seen such meaty staples!
 
Hi, I know that whoever takes the job on is going to have a hard time pulling the cables out of the back of old fusebox as some monkey back in 78 "stapled" twin and earths to plasterboard woodwork, as seen with snakescope! In view of what you said I shall just free up the cables thru light switch back box opposite, never seen such meaty staples!
we used to use a section of twin and earth as a clip and nail it in, either that or those old thin metal P clips, whack a nail in then fold its over the cable and through the buckle
young people today, they dont know they're born!!


View attachment 1588328279472.png
 
Hi, I know that whoever takes the job on is going to have a hard time pulling the cables out of the back of old fusebox as some monkey back in 78 "stapled" twin and earths to plasterboard woodwork, as seen with snakescope! In view of what you said I shall just free up the cables thru light switch back box opposite, never seen such meaty staples!
Are you rewiring as well?

The reason for asking is it might just make sense to extend all of the cables using DIN rails or similar to your new CU if there is not enough cable to get to where the CU will have to be located.

This was discussed in another thread, will look.
[automerge]1588335382[/automerge]
Here it is: Lowering Consumer Unit & Extending Cables - https://www.electriciansforums.net/threads/lowering-consumer-unit-extending-cables.185304/
 
Those are stick on, but with the cable collapse under fire concerns are they not making the metal style again for T&E fixing?
they are stick on, but you can nail them. i'd not rely on stick on anyway, fire or no fire.
 
stuck some in the van for the LED strip lighting. they fell off within a week.
 
Folk have already covered the Part P and non-DIY nature of this work, but if you decide you are competent to do it and have made arrangements for test, etc, then it would do no harm to read over the best practice guides first:

(in particular #1, #2 and #4)

And specific guidance on fitting new CU:
[automerge]1588337773[/automerge]
The question of test equipment has already been covered, do you have anything?

Ideally you should have access to a voltage tester, proving unit, and a Multi Function Tester.

But realistically you need as a minimum a decent CAT-III / CAT-IV rated multimeter (and knowledge to use it safely) so you can:
  • Prove correct polarity (L & N right way round)
  • Check for reasonably low earth resistances for circuit earths and bonding
  • Check there are no obvious shorts from L to E/N before energising
  • Check ring continuity and some confidence the conductor impedances are matching (or in-ratio for E compared with L/N values).
  • Check you don't have cross-linked circuits (L to L, or N to N that should not be there such as "borrowed neutrals")
And whoever does the final test can do it correctly for insulation resistance, etc, along with Ze / PFC, etc.
[automerge]1588338138[/automerge]
Missed the "N to E" checks from the list, drat!
 
Last edited:
The above plus an insulation resistance tester will cover the required “dead” tests.

You would need to confirm the Ze of the supply, or you won’t be able to check that your Zs figures meet the EFLI requirements.
all clear so far?

before the installation is put into service a number of other tests are needed, a calibrated RCD tester is needed.
 

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