Discuss Light Circuit incorporating WiFi switch and mechanical switch in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Birdie

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I'm a DIYer with some electrical knowledge. IMG_20200116_141220.jpg
My questions relate to the attached diagram. Firstly, is the principle sound? Secondly, does the neutral at the feed end of the WiFi switch need to be connected to anything and, if so, where?
 
unfortunately, the principal is not sound.

when the 2 way switch is in one position, the light will be on and the wifi switch will have no effect when switched on or off

when the 2 way switch is in the other position, the light will be on if the wifi switch is on and off if it is off.
 
wire the light as normal with a 1 way switch. then take the switch feed from the wi-fi to the outgoing terminal of the switch.
 
as tel says its simply two switches in parrallel
Hi guys, all three that have responded so far. I appreciate what you are telling me but what I want to achieve is pretty much what James explained, ie to be able to use the mechanical switch to operate the light in the short term in the event that the WiFi switch fails. I appreciate that when the mechanical switch is towards the WiFi connection then the light will be operated by the WiFi switch (through an app). At least that's what I expect would happen. If I'm correct in thinking that my only other question is whether I need to connect the neutral from the feed side of the WiFi switch to any part of the circuit. If it helps a photo of the WiFi smart switch I am using is attached. IMG_20200116_172505.jpg
Access isn't an issue. I live in a bungalow with reasonable loft space. The mechanical switches are accessible through conduit. I intent to locate all of the WiFi switches in a cabinet in the loft.
 
I'm a DIYer with some electrical knowledge. View attachment 55328
My questions relate to the attached diagram. Firstly, is the principle sound? Secondly, does the neutral at the feed end of the WiFi switch need to be connected to anything and, if so, where?
Birdie as far as the feed of the WIFI it could use a neutral on the line side since it says 120/240 it will Need a neutral and it breaks the neutral and the live wire. But read the instructions and see what it says
 
Birdie as far as the feed of the WIFI it could use a neutral on the line side since it says 120/240 it will Need a neutral and it breaks the neutral and the live wire. But read the instructions and see what it says
Hi Megawatt, thanks for your input. Regarding Neutral on the Line side, there's no info in the instructions - they're more concerned about the features and WiFi connectivity of the switch. Is there any situation where connecting the Line side of Neutral back to the Supply side is an issue, or should it be connected directly to Neutral on the lamp?
 
Hi Megawatt, thanks for your input. Regarding Neutral on the Line side, there's no info in the instructions - they're more concerned about the features and WiFi connectivity of the switch. Is there any situation where connecting the Line side of Neutral back to the Supply side is an issue, or should it be connected directly to Neutral on the lamp?
It basically acts just like a switch when it is on the hot and neutral come out of the load side
 
It basically acts just like a switch when it is on the hot and neutral come out of the load side
Upon reflection I think that the Neutral on the 'output' marked side of the switch is redundant in the diagram I have drawn. I believe the device has been designed to function in a number of scenarios, some of which require the Neutral on that side of the unit to be connected to complete a circuit where there is no other connection to Neutral, eg where it replaces a switch on a table lamp or where it might be controlling the last ceiling light in a circuit. I've also come to this conclusion by referring to the wiring arrangement of WiFi switches designed to fit in the back box of a light switch. They only have Neutral into the switch - to complete the circuit for the electronic control portion of the switch's circuit, since it needs to be always on.
Do you think I'm correct in all of the above please?
 
Upon reflection I think that the Neutral on the 'output' marked side of the switch is redundant in the diagram I have drawn. I believe the device has been designed to function in a number of scenarios, some of which require the Neutral on that side of the unit to be connected to complete a circuit where there is no other connection to Neutral, eg where it replaces a switch on a table lamp or where it might be controlling the last ceiling light in a circuit. I've also come to this conclusion by referring to the wiring arrangement of WiFi switches designed to fit in the back box of a light switch. They only have Neutral into the switch - to complete the circuit for the electronic control portion of the switch's circuit, since it needs to be always on.
Do you think I'm correct in all of the above please?
Yes that’s what I was thinking yesterday and you are correct. Good luck
 
agree with megawatt as to how it should work. as an aside, I'm impressed to see wagos instead of the fire nuts yous Americans are so fond of. :p :p :p
 

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