If you are unable to attach a gland to the consumer unit due to having limited space above it (which is where the cables run down) what can you attach or use for the cable entries? Silicone, bush and lock nut?
- Thread starter SharpSparks
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L
Leesparkykent
Semi blind grommets https://www.edwardes.co.uk/en/categories/wiska-clixx-grommets
O
Octopus
2 bits of wood and use the rear openings!
S
Swcfisher
Thanks guys. Wasn't sure on what is/isn't acceptable as the property I'm rewiring will most likely be up for nic inspection. What's confusing me is that metal boards now have to be fitted but plastic can still be used for cable entries. What is the point in that? Or is it just me misunderstanding why the ammendment has been made?
Various threads on this subject for some time now. Reg 421.1.201 requires non combustible CU (domestic properties), non ferrous metal is deemed to be a way of achieving that. No mentioned or recommendation of using metal glands, but you can if you want. Only requirement, as it has previously been required, is to maintain the applicable IP ratings. Therefore bespoke glands or blind grommets as has been suggested, trunking, or utilise rear entry for cables. It is only the CU (or similar switch gear assemblies) that now has to be metal, not the method of entry.
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Brilliant. Sums it all up thanks very much
I've just been having a similar dilemma and there are actually many different options for maintaining the IP rating when coming in from above SS. See the link to the thread below, but it really just covers what has already been said above although perhaps in a bit more detail. I especially like the video in post 19 which gives you a few options for top entry in order to maintain the IP4X requirement. Saying that, I did exactly as Murdoch has said in post 4 of this thread and just put 2 pieces of 3x2 battens behind, nice bit of plywood for the CU to go on and then brought the cables in through the back therefore negating the need for the IP4X requirement.
I did still use a wiska gland for the tails and main earth though (on the side), which maybe a thought for you if this is a TT (although to be honest I think a 40mm stuffing gland would have sufficed).
http://www.electriciansforums.co.uk...09474-maintaining-ip4x-top-entry-into-cu.html
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How so?
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LankyWill
unless the board is in a wet area the ip rating doesnt have to be maintained :army:. Id go for the wood option with rear entry. oo er
The IP rating must be maintained in line with the regulation that covers enclosures and their minimum IP ratings.
O
Octopus
So you can't fix a shiny new metal CU to a wooden structure - really?
ip ratting is not just for water ingress it is for dust aswell i think it ip4x for the top of a consumer unit
L
LankyWill
as long as you havent chewed a massive gaping whole in the top, a slot for cables will be fine. Im sure common sense comes into play...
It must be to a minimum of IP4X / IPXXD for the top side, and IP2X / IPXXB elsewhere.
i know then the thread was dug back up with incorrect info saying that you can not mount a CU on wood and then lankywill mention that ip ratting only apply to wet areas so i felt he needed info on this
I find it difficult to believe people are still mounting consumer units on wood battens, I suppose at least it is somewhere for the mice to crawl into in the winter.
I sort of agree, nothing to do with fire rating of IP rating etc, think its just a bit pants mounting it on a piece of wood. I note Wylex offer a CU pattress, you'd think nowadays all the manufacturers would provide something in a similar vein?
Well the fundamental crux of your post is totally wrong, because it is FERROUS METAL that has been deemed as an example of a suitable material, NOT, NON-FERROUS metal.
Please.
Shame you didn't point out my mistake 15 weeks ago, it's obviously completely confused everyone since then. The rest of the post was alright though, wasn't it?
There is nothing wrong with doing this, it's a tried and tested technique and is still a good option on some board changes. I use trunking behind the CU so the IP rating on the back is actually maintained, so no mice will be getting in.
The solution is as follows.
1.buy a ot gun cabinet and mount on wall (ferrous enclosure)
2.buy plastic board from screwfix fit and make a lot on mark up.
3.cabinet has lock so safe isolation.
4.keep a shot gun in cabinet so if you see mice you can blow their heads off.
No more replies needed
1.buy a ot gun cabinet and mount on wall (ferrous enclosure)
2.buy plastic board from screwfix fit and make a lot on mark up.
3.cabinet has lock so safe isolation.
4.keep a shot gun in cabinet so if you see mice you can blow their heads off.
No more replies needed
Yes the rest is right, no need for metal glands no need for intumescent materials or any sort of fire proofing.
Another option is as has been suggested put a plastic box in a non-comustible enclosure, noting that plasterboard is non-combustible...
Just the maintain the standard IP rating requirements of the enclosure as per BS7671.
Nothing wrong with going right up to the enclosure with pvc conduit or trunking, across the top, down the sides, behind, anywhere as long as the ip rating meets the regs.
Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit, and too subtle for some
?
I don't do wit, sarcasm, or subtlety, I do facts.
What uptake?
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