Remote cooker switch?

brman · Nov 21, 2013

I don't suppose anyone knows of a remote cooker switch? i.e. actual wiring and switch can be hidden behind the cooker and controlled from a switch elsewhere?
It will be on a 32A circuit.

It needs to be relatively small, say fit in a 35mm 2G backbox sort of size so I suspect that rules out a contactor unless anyone knows of low profile contactors?

That does beg another question, is there any reason why a contactor (normally open) switched via a grid switch would not fit the requirement for a cooker switch?

Guest55 · Nov 21, 2013

why do you need 2 switches ?

just ditch the isolator behind the cooker for a connection outlet and use a sole switch at the prefered location.

using a contactor will still mean running in a 6A control feed to the 2nd switch.

telectrix · Nov 21, 2013

as biff says. where you want the switch, fit the cooker isolator. don't have to be right by the cooker.

brman · Nov 21, 2013

The place I want to put the switch is about 1.5m from the cooker but fiddly to get a cable to. I rather use a small cable for that rather that run out and back again with the cooker cable.
I could do it this way but am just checking if there are any other options.....

EDIT: forgot to add, I also don't really have space for a normal cooker switch, hence the question about using a grid switch as I can then lump it in with the other appliances.

telectrix · Nov 21, 2013

fiddly????? since when did that bother us sparks. now if you were a plumber, i'd understand. fiddly to a plumber means just drop the pipes on the surface and cover with some ill fitting, badly designed god-awful capping.

Guest55 · Nov 21, 2013

.................and in 10 seconds flat i find a 32A grid switch for £3.

The Click Minigrid 250V 32A DP Switch Module (MD032WH) in a White finish is another quality product from Click. The Click Minigrid 250V 32A DP Switch Module (MD032WH) is available at electrical2go for only £2.95. If you find it cheaper elsewhere plea

;-)

brman · Nov 21, 2013

telectrix said:
fiddly????? since when did that bother us sparks. now if you were a plumber, i'd understand. fiddly to a plumber means just drop the pipes on the surface and cover with some ill fitting, badly designed god-awful capping.

fiddly as in "I can't be arsed, this job is already taking far too long and I just want it done as quickly as possible" :lol:

Unless someone comes up with a nice solution I will probably have to stop moaning and get on with it but I am still curious - lets say I didn't want a big ugly cooker switch in the kitchen, is there anything to stop me using a contactor plus grid switch? (apart from cost and the derision of other sparks of course....

)

brman · Nov 21, 2013

biff55 said:
.................and in 10 seconds flat i find a 32A grid switch for £3.

The Click Minigrid 250V 32A DP Switch Module (MD032WH) in a White finish is another quality product from Click. The Click Minigrid 250V 32A DP Switch Module (MD032WH) is available at electrical2go for only £2.95. If you find it cheaper elsewhere plea

;-)

I've got to admit I didn't even think of looking for one of those. For some reason I assumed 20A would be my max. Mind you, getting two cooker cables into the same backbox as half a dozen other appliances doesn't sound like a fun job!

Guest55 · Nov 21, 2013

the regs permit the use of mcb for isolation.

i expect much worried hand-wringing , gasps of disbelief , and further posts starting with " but its good practice........"

;-)

Guest55 · Nov 21, 2013

brman said:
I've got to admit I didn't even think of looking for one of those. For some reason I assumed 20A would be my max. Mind you, getting two cooker cables into the same backbox as half a dozen other appliances doesn't sound like a fun job!

ffs , shall i just drive round and connect the wires for you ?
all youve done is whinge.

man the f*** up.
;-)

brman · Nov 21, 2013

biff55 said:
ffs , shall i just drive round and connect the wires for you ?
all youve done is whinge.

man the f*** up.
;-)

Sorry Guv

brman · Nov 21, 2013

biff55 said:
the regs permit the use of mcb for isolation.

i expect much worried hand-wringing , gasps of disbelief , and further posts starting with " but its good practice........"

;-)

Doesn't it need to be emergency isolation for cookers? That would make it a requirement for DP wouldn't it? (saying that I don't have time atm to check the regs so I am probably talking out of my arse...)

Guest55 · Nov 21, 2013

bs7671 has very clear definitions for what needs "emergency switching"

and none of it you will ever see in a domestic installation.

D Skelton · Nov 21, 2013

brman said:
Doesn't it need to be emergency isolation for cookers? That would make it a requirement for DP wouldn't it? (saying that I don't have time atm to check the regs so I am probably talking out of my arse...)

Biff is completely and utterly correct. Ditch the cooker switch full stop! I wouldn't give it a second thought if I knew that wiring in a seperate cooker switch was going to be particularly difficult.

Anyone who says you can't do this is a moron!

Guitarist · Nov 21, 2013

D Skelton said:
Biff is completely and utterly correct. Ditch the cooker switch full stop! I wouldn't give it a second thought if I knew that wiring in a seperate cooker switch was going to be particularly difficult.

Anyone who says you can't do this is a moron!

Unless the manufacturers instructions state something like "must have double pole isolation with a contact gap of at least 3mm....blah blah blah....

D Skelton · Nov 21, 2013

Guitarist said:
Unless the manufacturers instructions state something like "must have double pole isolation with a contact gap of at least 3mm....blah blah blah....

That's what the main switch is for

brman · Nov 21, 2013

D Skelton said:
That's what the main switch is for

you just beat me to it

Although I don't disagree I think I would be concerned about not fitting the switch, if only because I would be concerned someone later would object that it wasn't a standard circuit and cause trouble.

D Skelton · Nov 21, 2013

brman said:
I would be concerned someone later would object

I've dealt with this sort of thing on a regular basis, it used to hack me right off but now I just think 'Hell, if I've got to adapt my work to cater for the next electrician who comes and looks at it without really knowing what he's doing then I've no business being an electrician!'

If everyones work had to cater for the lowest common denominator then what's the point? We may as well scrap the regs and just work from the OSG!

Guitarist · Nov 21, 2013

D Skelton said:
That's what the main switch is for

Apologies. Read it as using the MCB as the isolator. Long few weeks....

Rockingit · Nov 22, 2013

I've used those Click 32A grid switches (they're DP, btw) several times over the last couple of years - no issues whatsoever.

Engineer54 · Nov 22, 2013

Personally, i would always like to see a cooker control switch local to the cooker it's controling. If a DP switch can't be located local to the cooker, then there is not much point in installing one, especially if it's going to be hidden!!

You can now find single back box fitting 45A cooker switches, so it doesn't have to be a full sized or a double back box fitting switch. Don't think i'd contemplate using a SP/DP 32A Grid switch, just don't seem man enough for my liking...

Rockingit · Nov 22, 2013

Engineer54 said:
Don't think i'd contemplate using a SP/DP 32A Grid switch, just don't seem man enough for my liking...

Well, that was my first reaction, too. But then I got to thinking....we're conditioned to see 63A MCB's be exactly the same physical size as 6A ones.... so a separation gap is a separation gap.

They're double width, btw!