sauna blowing 4amp fuse internally on switch on after water

[Karl1967]

infrared sauna blowing 4amp fuse on switch on, After heavy storm, water damage,

The water went into the roof of the sauna were the electrics are in a black box the fuse blows every time the sauna turn on switch is pressed.

Image 1 is were the fuse is, I have removed the light and stereo wires from this and disconnected the control panal, And the fuse still blows as soon as the sauna switch is turned on.

 

[UNG]

What test equipment do you have and what tests have you done

 

[Karl1967]

What test equipment do you have and what tests have you done

Hi

Non , Im not very electrically minded, Basically if i plug in and switch the breaker on which you can see located in the pictures it is fine untill i switch the sauna on switch on and the small 4 amp glass fuse in the transformer (black metal box with the circuit board and wires} in the pictures, Then blows,

If I have that breaker off ,Replace the 4 amp fuse in the black transformer thing, and leave the sauna on switch on the fuse blows as soon as I switch the breaker on.

I have disconnected the wires to that black box for the stereo, Lights, And disconnected the display panel in the sauna to eliminate them, And unplugged all the main kettle style leads to all the internal heater bulbs, And it does exactly the same. So I am guessing only the breaker, Black transformer or the one other item left in the pictures next to the breaker which is a relay is the problem as nothing else was connected, Although They are reconnected in the pictures.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

The black ventilated box is a switched-mode power supply unit. If water has got inside, the electronics on the non-isolated (input) side have probably gone bang and the usual result is that it will blow the supply fuse due to short-circuited transistors. If the unit is completely disconnected, it is usually easy to confirm this from the terminal strip using a multimeter.

They are not often economical to repair and in this case may have multiple faults, so would be best replaced with an identical new unit. Try Googling the model number.

 

[Karl1967]

The black ventilated box is a switched-mode power supply unit. If water has got inside, the electronics on the non-isolated (input) side have probably gone bang and the usual result is that it will blow the supply fuse due to short-circuited transistors. If the unit is completely disconnected, it is usually easy to confirm this from the terminal strip using a multimeter.

They are not often economical to repair and in this case may have multiple faults, so would be best replaced with an identical new unit. Try Googling the model number.

Hi Thanks , I have tried googling but cannot come up with the identical item , Any help in knowing a unit that I could replace it with would be of great help. Thank you.

 

[DPG]

Hi Thanks , I have tried googling but cannot come up with the identical item , Any help in knowing a unit that I could replace it with would be of great help. Thank you.

The label on the side gives the spec. Shouldn't be too hard to find one as it only has 5V and 12V outputs, which are both standard figures. Ensure current per output and overall wattage capability are both at least the same as the existing unit.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

I've no idea what those two outputs are powering but you could also use separate 5V & 12V power supply units.

 

[Karl1967]

The wires are from the bottom y/r/b the stereo which i am removing so not needed, then red & purple are to lcd which i am keeping,

So i only need a supply that I can reconnect with the wires on

AC-L RED WIRES
AC-N BLACK WIRES
AND DC2 RED WIRE & COM PURPLE WIRE.

Can anyone send a link or similair of a power supply which will be correct for those 4 connections that i need. Sorry im not very electronically minded.

 

[Karl1967]

The black ventilated box is a switched-mode power supply unit. If water has got inside, the electronics on the non-isolated (input) side have probably gone bang and the usual result is that it will blow the supply fuse due to short-circuited transistors. If the unit is completely disconnected, it is usually easy to confirm this from the terminal strip using a multimeter.

They are not often economical to repair and in this case may have multiple faults, so would be best replaced with an identical new unit. Try Googling the model number.

Hi Can I ask

I've no idea what those two outputs are powering but you could also use separate 5V & 12V power supply units.

The wires are from the bottom y/r/b the stereo which i am removing , I am guessing these are the only wires using 12v output.

, then red & purple are to lcd/control panel I am also guessing these are using the 5v output

So i only need a supply that I can reconnect with the wires on

AC-L RED WIRES
AC-N BLACK WIRES
AND DC2 RED WIRE & COM PURPLE WIRE. i think 5v

So am I right in thinking I can do this with a supply with SPEC

input:AC110V/220V

Output 5v/3A

So not needing the dual 12v,5v power supply as im not re fitting the 12v car stereo which i think is the only connection on the 12v.

Thanks for your help

 

[Karl1967]

I've no idea what those two outputs are powering but you could also use separate 5V & 12V power supply units.

Hi Thanks , I have tried googling but cannot come up with the identical item , Any help in knowing a unit that I could replace it with would be of great help. Thank you.

The wires are from the bottom y/r/b the stereo which i am removing , I am guessing these are the only wires using 12v output.

, then red & purple are to lcd/control panel I am also guessing these are using the 5v output

So i only need a supply that I can reconnect with the wires on

AC-L RED WIRES
AC-N BLACK WIRES
AND DC2 RED WIRE & COM PURPLE WIRE. i think 5v

So am I right in thinking I can do this with a supply with SPEC

input:AC110V/220V

Output 5v/3A

So not needing the dual 12v,5v power supply as im not re fitting the 12v car stereo which i think is the only connection on the 12v.

Thanks for your help

 

[DPG]

The wires are from the bottom y/r/b the stereo which i am removing , I am guessing these are the only wires using 12v output.

, then red & purple are to lcd/control panel I am also guessing these are using the 5v output

So i only need a supply that I can reconnect with the wires on

AC-L RED WIRES
AC-N BLACK WIRES
AND DC2 RED WIRE & COM PURPLE WIRE. i think 5v

So am I right in thinking I can do this with a supply with SPEC

input:AC110V/220V

Output 5v/3A

So not needing the dual 12v,5v power supply as im not re fitting the 12v car stereo which i think is the only connection on the 12v.

Thanks for your help

If you no longer need the 12VDC output then yes, a single output 5V 3 Amp power supply will be fine.

 

[Karl1967]

If you no longer need the 12VDC output then yes, a single output 5V 3 Amp power supply will be fine.

Dont suppose you know were I can purchase one. I cant seem to find one 5v 3a. Many Thanks

 

[DPG]

Dont suppose you know were I can purchase one. I cant seem to find one 5v 3a. Many Thanks

Doesn't matter if it's slightly over on the current output. Doesn't have to be exactly 3A.

 

[Karl1967]

If you no longer need the 12VDC output then yes, a single output 5V 3 Amp power supply will be fine.

Would this work?. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mintice-Transformer-Switching-Adapter-Regulated/dp/B07CZG2Q7K

 

[Karl1967]

If you no longer need the 12VDC output then yes, a single output 5V 3 Amp power supply will be fine.

Hi Will this do the job ?.

Mintice Universal Converter AC 110V-220V to DC 5V 3A 15W Switching Power Supply Transformer Adapter Switch Driver Source Regulated for LED Strip​