Hey , new to forum so not sure how it all works but here goes

Last week the heating wouldn't come on when called for from Programmer, went into storage and opened the solenoid valve manually and the heating fired up so i assumed the motor was done, ordered a new one. It came yesterday and i swapped it over, a Danfoss HPA2 , 4 core. Thought that would be problem solved but no, when i call for heating it still doesn't come on, yet if i push the valve to manual it fires up.

Any help with where to go next ?

Cheers
 
have you got a voltage tester or a multimetr?
 
Guessing and randomly replacing parts is quite an expensive way of fixing a fault.

The fault could be the programmer, thermostat, loose connection, damaged cable....

You need to carry out some testing to establish what is causing the problem.
 
usually you get 240V when the system calls for heat. check at the wiring centre to see if you get volts on the feed to the actuator.
 
Guessing and randomly replacing parts is quite an expensive way of fixing a fault.

The fault could be the programmer, thermostat, loose connection, damaged cable....

You need to carry out some testing to establish what is causing the problem.

well, i thought was an educated guess tbh, the valve opened manually , they are known to 'go' after a few years , which it has been in for. Fairly common problem/occurance id have thought
 
The brown wire at the valve operates the motor, this should be live when the programmer is on and the room stat is calling for heat.
The grey and orange are the microswitch which closes when the valve is open. Usually the grey is connected to permanent live and the orange is the switched live to the boiler, but these can be the other way round sometimes.
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well, i thought was an educated guess tbh, the valve opened manually , they are known to 'go' after a few years , which it has been in for. Fairly common problem/occurance id have thought

I wouldnt say they are known to 'go' after a few years, obviously they do fail sometimes but often they will last for many years.

The fact the valve opens manually suggests that it is in mechanically good order ruling out the possibility of mechanical failure.

Can you hear the relay in the programmer clicking on and off, can you hear the same in the thermostat?
 
The brown wire at the valve operates the motor, this should be live when the programmer is on and the room stat is calling for heat.
The grey and orange are the microswitch which closes when the valve is open. Usually the grey is connected to permanent live and the orange is the switched live to the boiler, but these can be the other way round sometimes.
[automerge]1587206400[/automerge]


I wouldnt say they are known to 'go' after a few years, obviously they do fail sometimes but often they will last for many years.

The fact the valve opens manually suggests that it is in mechanically good order ruling out the possibility of mechanical failure.

Can you hear the relay in the programmer clicking on and off, can you hear the same in the thermostat?

There is nothing on the brown when I call for heat.

Both zone valves for heating and hot water, the orange and greys are paired together in terminals 6 + 7 of junction box

All looks ok, no loose connections or anything untoward
 
There is nothing on the brown when I call for heat.

Both zone valves for heating and hot water, the orange and greys are paired together in terminals 6 + 7 of junction box

All looks ok, no loose connections or anything untoward

Can you clarify what you mean by 'nothing on the brown'?
 
Are these of any help? Taken from the Honeywell app, might be worth downloading.
 

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No heating , changed Solenoid valve
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Central Heating Systems
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