Handy Stuff for Commercial Installations

[IAmSparkytus!]

Morning all!

Just been having a quick flick through some threads and enjoying all the good advice being offered to many people on a variety of topics!

While flicking I've also noticed info on earthing nuts and wiska gland plates which have blown my mind as it seems I'm currently still stuck in the dark ages using banjos for all SWA installations.

To add to this I've only not long ago started using wagos instead of connector block...

This has made me want to ask whether there are any other really simple (probably second nature now to you all) materials/accessories and tools which would make commercial fit outs easier and simpler?

Thanks all, have a good day!

 

[pc1966]

One recent discovery/conversion for me is Flexishield cable.

An obvious use-case is for cables in walls where you don't want RCD protection, but you want something a lot easier to wrangle than SWA. Another is for cables clipped on walls where you might have rats, etc, and so PVC T&E or rubber is not good, as they don't seem to like Flexishield. They even make a cat-urine flavoured version of it for really problematic areas (farms, etc)

Flexishield R How It Works

Flexishield R How It Works

www.flexcables.co.uk

But the normal stuff is good for many industrial/commercial applications as it looks fairly neat if clipped to walls and is stiff-ish so stays in place. It is similar to FP cable but really rated for nail penetration RCD trip action.

 

[timhoward]

Great post - I look forward to seeing what else emerges that I've never heard of!
Thanks particularly for mentioning earthing nuts - I've also been using banjo connectors....!

I recently learned of Quickwire connectors which are awesome for rewiring lighting ridiculously quickly, or cable repairs, especially if lots of lights are on the same switched circuit. I has a room full of downlighters in a suspended ceiling and every single one just had single insulated cables looping in and out. I was amazed to be putting steps away about about half an hour having rewired the room.

Quinetic wireless light switches were another recent revelation - no battery in the switch, works on kinetic energy. More for domestic really though.

 

[Spaniel]

Swiftnut when your doing threaded bar after threaded bar after threaded bar......Spins it up the rod in no time, saves getting rsi while building trapezes!






And CMP island glands for easy testing of sub main earth after sub main earth after sub main
earth......isolates gland from housing and easy to disconnect the lemon and lime!

 

[pc1966]

Few other things to mention, for SWA the "Tauras STORM" glands are really good, as well as actually being IP68 rated for situations where a lot of water is likely.

Recent tools that I value are a torque screwdriver. I know a lot of experienced folk can get away without them, but to me its a bit like a car. You can do a lot of jobs without a torque wrench, but you would not consider a cylinder head change without it. Same for electrics, many jobs a screwdriver and Mk 1 hand is perfectly fine, but for a CU, control panel, etc, going over it with a torque driver to the specified values is much the same.

Other great tool (to be used with care) is a impact driver:

Impact Driver | Cordless Impact Driver Drill Set | Milwaukee Tool UK

Discover the power and precision of MILWAUKEE® Cordless Impact Drivers. Explore the range including Right Angle, Sub Compact and heavy-duty M18 FUEL™ models.

uk.milwaukeetool.eu

Along with the Armeg hole saws:

Armeg SSH3PCSET Drill Bits & Holesaws

Buy Armeg SSH3PCSET Drill Bits & Holesaws online at Shop4 Electrical & get FREE Next Day UK Delivery when you order by 2pm & spend £60

www.discount-electrical.co.uk

Though in retrospect I probably would get the quieter 'hydraulic' impact driver instead as I don't need full power most of the time and would rather have less noise.

 

[pc1966]

This sort of kit:

Milwaukee M18FQID-502X M18 FUEL SURGE Hydraulic Impact Driver

Milwaukee M18FQID. 18 volt cordless brushless 1/4 inch hex hydraulic impact driver. Constant 50Nm torque. The Milwaukee SURGE impact driver for quieter impact self tapping screws. UK equivalent for US Milwaukee Tool 2760-22. Milwaukee 4933451791.

www.bigredpowertools.co.uk

 

[LastManOnline]

Along with the Armeg hole saws:

Armeg SSH3PCSET Drill Bits & Holesaws

Buy Armeg SSH3PCSET Drill Bits & Holesaws online at Shop4 Electrical & get FREE Next Day UK Delivery when you order by 2pm & spend £60

www.discount-electrical.co.uk

Am curious about the Armeg "impact" holesaws. In what way do they differ from standard holesaws?.

On a separate note, I recently was alerted by a poster here to a multitool blade for cutting plaster and brick. The pictures of the cutout box looked really neat. That's the next buy on my list

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

Recent tools that I value are a torque screwdriver. I know a lot of experienced folk can get away without them, but to me its a bit like a car. You can do a lot of jobs without a torque wrench, but you would not consider a cylinder head change without it. Same for electrics, many jobs a screwdriver and Mk 1 hand is perfectly fine, but for a CU, control panel, etc, going over it with a torque driver to the specified values is much the same.

Have been thinking about getting a torque screwdriver recently. Can you recommend one? Are they expensive?

I'm a nightmare for losing tools so tend to avoid screwdriver sets with interchangeable heads!

Im also interested to know, and you'll probably be able to tell me, whether the torque drivers make things more or less tight than someone would tend to make things with a standard screwdriver?

 

[LastManOnline]

This has made me want to ask whether there are any other really simple (probably second nature now to you all) materials/accessories and tools which would make commercial fit outs easier and simpler?

You may already have one, but the endoscope cameras for 30 to 50 euro are worth their weight in gold for domestic work. Being able to see what's above a ceiling or under a floor, in a stud wall, BEFORE drilling gives, great piece of mind.

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

I recently learned of Quickwire connectors which are awesome for rewiring lighting ridiculously quickly, or cable repairs, especially if lots of lights are on the same switched circuit. I has a room full of downlighters in a suspended ceiling and every single one just had single insulated cables looping in and out. I was amazed to be putting steps away about about half an hour having rewired the room.

They look the dogs proverbials! How much do they cost? Do they only connect 2 twin and earths or can they connect say 2 twin and earths along with a flex to a light fitting for example? And do they make them for 3 core and earth?

 

[Dustydazzler]

This sort of kit:

Milwaukee M18FQID-502X M18 FUEL SURGE Hydraulic Impact Driver

Milwaukee M18FQID. 18 volt cordless brushless 1/4 inch hex hydraulic impact driver. Constant 50Nm torque. The Milwaukee SURGE impact driver for quieter impact self tapping screws. UK equivalent for US Milwaukee Tool 2760-22. Milwaukee 4933451791.

www.bigredpowertools.co.uk

Is that for consumer unit

 

[i=p/u]

Am curious about the Armeg "impact" holesaws. In what way do they differ from standard holesaws?.

On a separate note, I recently was alerted by a poster here to a multitool blade for cutting plaster and brick. The pictures of the cutout box looked really neat. That's the next buy on my list

They are brilliant just a little tad expensive to me. But no doubt I'd lift one if heading to metal munch

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

Am curious about the Armeg "impact" holesaws. In what way do they differ from standard holesaws?.

I've got a few of these, they're best used on sheet metal really. Fuse boards, metal trunking etc. They're only maybes 20mm deep, have a flared end which prevents you from pushing the holesaw further inside after the hole has been drilled, and they have a spring which shoots the metal back out to stop it getting clogged up.

Can use them on other materials if you need to avoid hitting cables etc but plastic and wood will get stuck inside like a standard holesaw.

 

[Sparky Pat]

One recent discovery/conversion for me is Flexishield cable.

An obvious use-case is for cables in walls where you don't want RCD protection, but you want something a lot easier to wrangle than SWA. Another is for cables clipped on walls where you might have rats, etc, and so PVC T&E or rubber is not good, as they don't seem to like Flexishield. They even make a cat-urine flavoured version of it for really problematic areas (farms, etc)

Flexishield R How It Works

Flexishield R How It Works

www.flexcables.co.uk

But the normal stuff is good for many industrial/commercial applications as it looks fairly neat if clipped to walls and is stiff-ish so stays in place. It is similar to FP cable but really rated for nail penetration RCD trip action.

I like the look of this cable , particularly the rodent retardent version, could well be something that I could use . Thank you pc 1966 for the heads up.

 

[i=p/u]

We love your input pc66, happy Saturday man.

 

[Timbo]

They look the dogs proverbials! - They are.
How much do they cost? - See link below.
Do they only connect 2 twin and earths - Up to 4, see link below.
or can they connect say 2 twin and earths along with a flex to a light fitting for example? - See link below.
And do they make them for 3 core and earth? - Not yet.

See responses inserted above.

QUICKWIRE CONNECTORS

Complete range of Quickwire Junction boxes and accessories.

www.superlecdirect.com

 

[LewisM]

Have been thinking about getting a torque screwdriver recently. Can you recommend one? Are they expensive?

I'm a nightmare for losing tools so tend to avoid screwdriver sets with interchangeable heads!

Im also interested to know, and you'll probably be able to tell me, whether the torque drivers make things more or less tight than someone would tend to make things with a standard screwdriver?

The Wiha one is very good, goes from 1nm-5nm I find its handy for double checking everything is good, I do all connections with just a normal screwdriver then nip them up with the torque screwdriver that way no connection is missed.

 

[Dustydazzler]

The Wiha one is very good, goes from 1nm-5nm I find its handy for double checking everything is good, I do all connections with just a normal screwdriver then nip them up with the torque screwdriver that way no connection is missed.

I must admit I don't own a torque screwdriver , but do keep one eye on ebay for one going cheap.
I have borrowed one to use but never felt like parting with £100 just for one

 

[nicebutdim]

I must admit I don't own a torque screwdriver , but do keep one eye on ebay for one going cheap.
I have borrowed one to use but never felt like parting with £100 just for one

Might be worth keeping an eye on Amazon warehouse deals. Quality stuff isn't usually discounted too much, but if it sits for a while there can be some decent bargains.

 

[timhoward]

You may already have one, but the endoscope cameras for 30 to 50 euro are worth their weight in gold for domestic work. Being able to see what's above a ceiling or under a floor, in a stud wall, BEFORE drilling gives, great piece of mind.

I'm looking at getting one of these. I'm considering the "depstech wifi camera". (The Ferret Camera looks awesome but can't justify that money really.)

 

[Dartlec]

I must admit I don't own a torque screwdriver , but do keep one eye on ebay for one going cheap.
I have borrowed one to use but never felt like parting with £100 just for one

I bought a cheap one (35 ish from memory at an Elex some years ago from one of the small tool suppliers there - Felo - a German make, with some long insulated bits, but they are getting a bit worn - It seems to take standard 1/4 hex bits, but the trouble is now that no-one seems to do insulated bits that fit it. (The Wiha slim torque are close but not close enough annoyingly).

Only does up to 3Nm though - some of the makes seem to require ridiculously high figures that anyone would struggle to achieve without the mcb breaking apart....

 

[DefyG]

Have been thinking about getting a torque screwdriver recently. Can you recommend one? Are they expensive?

I've started using one of these recently, initially for CU terminals but find it handy for umpteen jobs. Adjustable torque upto 5Nm too.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Berimaterry-Cordless-Screwdriver-Professional-Charging/dp/B08D8FPTM1/ref=asc_df_B08D8FPTM1/?tag=bingshoppinga-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583863989457111&psc=1

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

I've started using one of these recently, initially for CU terminals but find it handy for umpteen jobs. Adjustable torque upto 5Nm too.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Berimaterry-Cordless-Screwdriver-Professional-Charging/dp/B08D8FPTM1/ref=asc_df_B08D8FPTM1/?tag=bingshoppinga-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583863989457111&psc=1

Do you find that the terminals are tighter now than what they used to be when you would tighten them with a normal driver?

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

I bought a cheap one (35 ish from memory at an Elex some years ago from one of the small tool suppliers there - Felo - a German make, with some long insulated bits, but they are getting a bit worn - It seems to take standard 1/4 hex bits, but the trouble is now that no-one seems to do insulated bits that fit it. (The Wiha slim torque are close but not close enough annoyingly).

Only does up to 3Nm though - some of the makes seem to require ridiculously high figures that anyone would struggle to achieve without the mcb breaking apart....

So what do you in that instance?

 

[DefyG]

Do you find that the terminals are tighter now than what they used to be when you would tighten them with a normal driver?

Probably not TBH but tried tugging a few out without success!

So what do you in that instance?

Use the GO upto 5Nm then by hand. Some 7.5Nm but not seen many electrical equipment any higher that I can recall. Perhaps there would be if terminating to a 132kV network for example?

 

[UNG]

Am curious about the Armeg "impact" holesaws. In what way do they differ from standard holesaws?.

On a separate note, I recently was alerted by a poster here to a multitool blade for cutting plaster and brick. The pictures of the cutout box looked really neat. That's the next buy on my list

The Armeg hole saws don't appear to need as much torque to drive them, my Makita 10.8v drill or impact will quite happily cut a good number of hole before the battery needs charging

 

[DefyG]

Am curious about the Armeg "impact" holesaws. In what way do they differ from standard holesaws?.

I think its just the speed, they are designed for higher speeds that the impact can deliver.
My impact rarely cuts in to impact mode when using the armeg or similar (Starrett) holesaws.

 

[pc1966]

Am curious about the Armeg "impact" holesaws. In what way do they differ from standard holesaws?.

As other have already said, does the job well using the impact driver with 1/4" hex drive (just like the hex-shafted drill bits, easy to use if a touch less precise then traditional 3-jaw centring chuck).

But key thing is it won't go all the way through, so less risk of damage to stuff on the other side. Yes, you still need check it will clear stuff, and the risk of swarf or the spring-ejected disk have to be allowed for.

The resulting hols are quite clean, not as good as a hole punch (still have & use them), but better than I had anticipated from a hole saw.

 

[pc1966]

Have been thinking about getting a torque screwdriver recently. Can you recommend one? Are they expensive?

I'm a nightmare for losing tools so tend to avoid screwdriver sets with interchangeable heads!

This is the one I got, fairly easy to use but can't compare to any other VDE rated ones as only one i have.

Kraftform Kompakt VDE 15 Torque 1.2-3.0 Nm extra slim 1, 15 pieces - Wera Product finder

15-piece torque VDE interchangeable blade set. Includes 14 blades (12 of which with a reduced diameter) with integrated insulation protection. Torque VDE holder with adjustable torque from 1.2-3.0 Nm. Kraftform Plus handle: hard gripping zones for high working speeds whereas soft zones ensure...

products.wera.de

I also have a metal 1/4" square drive 'screwdriver' style torque wrench for lower values, and both 1/4" and 3/8" drive toque wrenches going up to 25Nm (and 1/2" for 120Nm or something). While I have used them for electrical terminals I feel very uneasy as gripping a good solid connection on what could be live. Yes, I did my safe isolation procedure, but it still feels wrong not to be using insulated tools!

If I did more general sparky work I would pony up the several £100 to get insulated versions, as even if the terminals I am working on are dead, there is a risk of dropping the tool on to something live and high current leading to a nasty arc-flash incident.

Im also interested to know, and you'll probably be able to tell me, whether the torque drivers make things more or less tight than someone would tend to make things with a standard screwdriver?

I find for the lower torque terminals, say around 1.2Nm, it is not much tighter than my own hand-feel would go, but for the top end at 3nm (or more with the socket style wrench) it is higher than I would normally risk going, though that is the manufacturer's recommendation.

For the Hager/Schneider/Wylex stuff it was fine, for a cheap CPN brand MCB I had to play with it split the body as "recommended" torque.

 

[pc1966]

The Wera bits are insulated and 9mm hex, so you can use a socket but it has to be deep! Otherwise you just screw off a cm of plastic off the end of the bit.

Found out the hard way using my 1/4" hex driver to do 5Nm

Need to get this:

King Dick EDSM 409 1/4" Drive Socket Deep Length 6 Point Metric 9mm

1/4" Drive Socket Deep Length 6 Point Metric. Drop forged from high grade materials to precise tolerances.. Machined to exceptional accuracy within strict controls before precise heat treatment.. Durable, reliable and lengthy service.. Corrosion resistant finish.. Manufactured to exceed the...

www.lawson-his.co.uk

 

[Dartlec]

So what do you in that instance?

I've had occasions where I've had to hold an MCB together at the top while tightening, which isn't a great advertisement for the quality. The ideal would be to re-tighten a week later I suspect, but that's usually practically not an option - I do often tighten - energise, then re-tighten as the last thing before the cover goes back on though...

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

Been Youtube'ing today and found a page called Efixx. They were demonstrating the use of ferrules and a ferrule crimper. Not something I have ever thought about using before as I tend to use solid core conductors up to 4mm and pre-wired Klik flexes for lighting installs but definitely looks like they would be a handy addition to have on the van.

Anyone use these often and for what uses?

Thanks

 

[Dustydazzler]

I've had occasions where I've had to hold an MCB together at the top while tightening, which isn't a great advertisement for the quality. The ideal would be to re-tighten a week later I suspect, but that's usually practically not an option - I do often tighten - energise, then re-tighten as the last thing before the cover goes back on though...

I wonder if all these sparks who now use impact drivers on consumer units check their terminations

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

I wonder if all these sparks who now use impact drivers on consumer units check their terminations

Maybes they've managed to find a DB manufacturer who recommended 110nM of torque for their breakers!

 

[Dustydazzler]

Correct installation of consumer unit to correct manufacture recommended torque ...?

 

[pc1966]

Anyone use these often and for what uses?

Yes, for flexible cables (tri-rated, H07RN-F, etc) and sometimes with 7-strand if it might get a bit crushed by a simple screw (e.g. for grid-switches). My investigations here:

Ferrule crimp tools part deux - in - Electrical Tools and Products

, Ferrule crimp tools part deux, Electrical Tools and Products, ElectriciansForums.net Est.2006 | Free Electrical Advice Forum and page_number.

www.electriciansforums.net

 

[Zerax]

Been Youtube'ing today and found a page called Efixx. They were demonstrating the use of ferrules and a ferrule crimper. Not something I have ever thought about using before as I tend to use solid core conductors up to 4mm and pre-wired Klik flexes for lighting installs but definitely looks like they would be a handy addition to have on the van.

Anyone use these often and for what uses?

Thanks

I use ferrules on almost all stranded cables... Both insulated and uninsulated ones.

 

[timbobelfast]

Am curious about the Armeg "impact" holesaws. In what way do they differ from standard holesaws?.

On a separate note, I recently was alerted by a poster here to a multitool blade for cutting plaster and brick. The pictures of the cutout box looked really neat. That's the next buy on my list

Don't waste your money on these. I had a set a few years back. The 20 & 25 lost all their teeth in no time at all. The 32 now spins so is next to useless. The box is handy though!

 

[Dustydazzler]

 

[Rockingit]

Don't waste your money on these. I had a set a few years back. The 20 & 25 lost all their teeth in no time at all. The 32 now spins so is next to useless. The box is handy though!

I buy Reisser holesaws now whenever possible, they put most other brands in the shade.