Handy Stuff for Commercial Installations

[Dartlec]

I must admit I don't own a torque screwdriver , but do keep one eye on ebay for one going cheap.
I have borrowed one to use but never felt like parting with £100 just for one

I bought a cheap one (35 ish from memory at an Elex some years ago from one of the small tool suppliers there - Felo - a German make, with some long insulated bits, but they are getting a bit worn - It seems to take standard 1/4 hex bits, but the trouble is now that no-one seems to do insulated bits that fit it. (The Wiha slim torque are close but not close enough annoyingly).

Only does up to 3Nm though - some of the makes seem to require ridiculously high figures that anyone would struggle to achieve without the mcb breaking apart....

 

[DefyG]

Have been thinking about getting a torque screwdriver recently. Can you recommend one? Are they expensive?

I've started using one of these recently, initially for CU terminals but find it handy for umpteen jobs. Adjustable torque upto 5Nm too.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Berimaterry-Cordless-Screwdriver-Professional-Charging/dp/B08D8FPTM1/ref=asc_df_B08D8FPTM1/?tag=bingshoppinga-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583863989457111&psc=1

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

I've started using one of these recently, initially for CU terminals but find it handy for umpteen jobs. Adjustable torque upto 5Nm too.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Berimaterry-Cordless-Screwdriver-Professional-Charging/dp/B08D8FPTM1/ref=asc_df_B08D8FPTM1/?tag=bingshoppinga-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583863989457111&psc=1

Do you find that the terminals are tighter now than what they used to be when you would tighten them with a normal driver?

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

I bought a cheap one (35 ish from memory at an Elex some years ago from one of the small tool suppliers there - Felo - a German make, with some long insulated bits, but they are getting a bit worn - It seems to take standard 1/4 hex bits, but the trouble is now that no-one seems to do insulated bits that fit it. (The Wiha slim torque are close but not close enough annoyingly).

Only does up to 3Nm though - some of the makes seem to require ridiculously high figures that anyone would struggle to achieve without the mcb breaking apart....

So what do you in that instance?

 

[DefyG]

Do you find that the terminals are tighter now than what they used to be when you would tighten them with a normal driver?

Probably not TBH but tried tugging a few out without success!

So what do you in that instance?

Use the GO upto 5Nm then by hand. Some 7.5Nm but not seen many electrical equipment any higher that I can recall. Perhaps there would be if terminating to a 132kV network for example?

 

[UNG]

Am curious about the Armeg "impact" holesaws. In what way do they differ from standard holesaws?.

On a separate note, I recently was alerted by a poster here to a multitool blade for cutting plaster and brick. The pictures of the cutout box looked really neat. That's the next buy on my list

The Armeg hole saws don't appear to need as much torque to drive them, my Makita 10.8v drill or impact will quite happily cut a good number of hole before the battery needs charging

 

[DefyG]

Am curious about the Armeg "impact" holesaws. In what way do they differ from standard holesaws?.

I think its just the speed, they are designed for higher speeds that the impact can deliver.
My impact rarely cuts in to impact mode when using the armeg or similar (Starrett) holesaws.

 

[pc1966]

Am curious about the Armeg "impact" holesaws. In what way do they differ from standard holesaws?.

As other have already said, does the job well using the impact driver with 1/4" hex drive (just like the hex-shafted drill bits, easy to use if a touch less precise then traditional 3-jaw centring chuck).

But key thing is it won't go all the way through, so less risk of damage to stuff on the other side. Yes, you still need check it will clear stuff, and the risk of swarf or the spring-ejected disk have to be allowed for.

The resulting hols are quite clean, not as good as a hole punch (still have & use them), but better than I had anticipated from a hole saw.

 

[pc1966]

Have been thinking about getting a torque screwdriver recently. Can you recommend one? Are they expensive?

I'm a nightmare for losing tools so tend to avoid screwdriver sets with interchangeable heads!

This is the one I got, fairly easy to use but can't compare to any other VDE rated ones as only one i have.

Kraftform Kompakt VDE 15 Torque 1.2-3.0 Nm extra slim 1, 15 pieces - Wera Product finder

15-piece torque VDE interchangeable blade set. Includes 14 blades (12 of which with a reduced diameter) with integrated insulation protection. Torque VDE holder with adjustable torque from 1.2-3.0 Nm. Kraftform Plus handle: hard gripping zones for high working speeds whereas soft zones ensure...

products.wera.de

I also have a metal 1/4" square drive 'screwdriver' style torque wrench for lower values, and both 1/4" and 3/8" drive toque wrenches going up to 25Nm (and 1/2" for 120Nm or something). While I have used them for electrical terminals I feel very uneasy as gripping a good solid connection on what could be live. Yes, I did my safe isolation procedure, but it still feels wrong not to be using insulated tools!

If I did more general sparky work I would pony up the several £100 to get insulated versions, as even if the terminals I am working on are dead, there is a risk of dropping the tool on to something live and high current leading to a nasty arc-flash incident.

Im also interested to know, and you'll probably be able to tell me, whether the torque drivers make things more or less tight than someone would tend to make things with a standard screwdriver?

I find for the lower torque terminals, say around 1.2Nm, it is not much tighter than my own hand-feel would go, but for the top end at 3nm (or more with the socket style wrench) it is higher than I would normally risk going, though that is the manufacturer's recommendation.

For the Hager/Schneider/Wylex stuff it was fine, for a cheap CPN brand MCB I had to play with it split the body as "recommended" torque.

 

[pc1966]

The Wera bits are insulated and 9mm hex, so you can use a socket but it has to be deep! Otherwise you just screw off a cm of plastic off the end of the bit.

Found out the hard way using my 1/4" hex driver to do 5Nm

Need to get this:

King Dick EDSM 409 1/4" Drive Socket Deep Length 6 Point Metric 9mm

1/4" Drive Socket Deep Length 6 Point Metric. Drop forged from high grade materials to precise tolerances.. Machined to exceptional accuracy within strict controls before precise heat treatment.. Durable, reliable and lengthy service.. Corrosion resistant finish.. Manufactured to exceed the...

www.lawson-his.co.uk

 

[Dartlec]

So what do you in that instance?

I've had occasions where I've had to hold an MCB together at the top while tightening, which isn't a great advertisement for the quality. The ideal would be to re-tighten a week later I suspect, but that's usually practically not an option - I do often tighten - energise, then re-tighten as the last thing before the cover goes back on though...

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

Been Youtube'ing today and found a page called Efixx. They were demonstrating the use of ferrules and a ferrule crimper. Not something I have ever thought about using before as I tend to use solid core conductors up to 4mm and pre-wired Klik flexes for lighting installs but definitely looks like they would be a handy addition to have on the van.

Anyone use these often and for what uses?

Thanks

 

[Dustydazzler]

I've had occasions where I've had to hold an MCB together at the top while tightening, which isn't a great advertisement for the quality. The ideal would be to re-tighten a week later I suspect, but that's usually practically not an option - I do often tighten - energise, then re-tighten as the last thing before the cover goes back on though...

I wonder if all these sparks who now use impact drivers on consumer units check their terminations

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

I wonder if all these sparks who now use impact drivers on consumer units check their terminations

Maybes they've managed to find a DB manufacturer who recommended 110nM of torque for their breakers!

 

[Dustydazzler]

Correct installation of consumer unit to correct manufacture recommended torque ...?

 

[pc1966]

Anyone use these often and for what uses?

Yes, for flexible cables (tri-rated, H07RN-F, etc) and sometimes with 7-strand if it might get a bit crushed by a simple screw (e.g. for grid-switches). My investigations here:

Ferrule crimp tools part deux

We often see folk asking about which crimp tool to buy/use so I decided to round up my collection and put them to the test. Ladies and gentlemen, here are the usual suspects: Seems I cant post after the image? From the left we have: RS crimp tool, seems they no longer sell it but I think it is...

www.electriciansforums.net

 

[Zerax]

Been Youtube'ing today and found a page called Efixx. They were demonstrating the use of ferrules and a ferrule crimper. Not something I have ever thought about using before as I tend to use solid core conductors up to 4mm and pre-wired Klik flexes for lighting installs but definitely looks like they would be a handy addition to have on the van.

Anyone use these often and for what uses?

Thanks

I use ferrules on almost all stranded cables... Both insulated and uninsulated ones.

 

[timbobelfast]

Am curious about the Armeg "impact" holesaws. In what way do they differ from standard holesaws?.

On a separate note, I recently was alerted by a poster here to a multitool blade for cutting plaster and brick. The pictures of the cutout box looked really neat. That's the next buy on my list

Don't waste your money on these. I had a set a few years back. The 20 & 25 lost all their teeth in no time at all. The 32 now spins so is next to useless. The box is handy though!

 

[Dustydazzler]

 

[Rockingit]

Don't waste your money on these. I had a set a few years back. The 20 & 25 lost all their teeth in no time at all. The 32 now spins so is next to useless. The box is handy though!

I buy Reisser holesaws now whenever possible, they put most other brands in the shade.