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Discuss Cable size issue with size of shower in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hello
Looking for some guidance please.
Lived in current house just over a year now and had couple issues with our pull cord switch (45A) sticking. Also at its worst, experienced the neutral burnt out.
My relative (industrial electrician) has put some potential issues across to me so was hoping you could all help make sense of it all.
Shower is 9.5KW
Unsure on voltage 230/240
Cable is 6mm
MCB is 32A type 2.
Cable from consumer to pull cord no more than 10M inside wall.
Pull cord to shower 1-2M above ceiling.

They have put doubts to me that the cable may not be big enough
Other option is they said to get smaller shower.
 
Hello
Looking for some guidance please.
Lived in current house just over a year now and had couple issues with our pull cord switch (45A) sticking. Also at its worst, experienced the neutral burnt out.
My relative (industrial electrician) has put some potential issues across to me so was hoping you could all help make sense of it all.
Shower is 9.5KW
Unsure on voltage 230/240
Cable is 6mm
MCB is 32A type 2.
Cable from consumer to pull cord no more than 10M inside wall.
Pull cord to shower 1-2M above ceiling.

They have put doubts to me that the cable may not be big enough
Other option is they said to get smaller shower.
So what exactly is your question Linksy5? Your relative who is an Industrial Electrician should be able to answer any questions regarding a simple shower circuit.
 
So what exactly is your question Linksy5?
Sorry, got myself confused trying to give as much information.
My question is:
Do the values seem ok for the cable size?
If not
What cable do I need if I need a complete rewire(want to avoid if possible -costly)
What shower size do I need if that is an option?
 
Where does the route of your existing cable take it; is it covered with insulation, or does it run in ceiling voids etc. The sticking pull cord & burnt out neutral, are likely to be a lose connection within the pull cord or even poor quality pull cord.
 
Hi Linksy - The 6mm cable and 32A mcb is likely good for a 7.5kW shower, which might have been what you started with. Probably later on the shower unit got changed out for a more powerful one such as you now have. It should have a supply circuit cabable of 40A to ensure it doesn't get heat damaged with use, but that isn't the cause of the pull switch failure, as @Midwest has said.
 
Hi Linksy - The 6mm cable and 32A mcb is likely good for a 7.5kW shower, which might have been what you started with. Probably later on the shower unit got changed out for a more powerful one such as you now have. It should have a supply circuit cabable of 40A to ensure it doesn't get heat damaged with use, but that isn't the cause of the pull switch failure, as @Midwest has said.
It's probably a duff N connection in the pull switch.
 
Hi Linksy - The 6mm cable and 32A mcb is likely good for a 7.5kW shower, which might have been what you started with. Probably later on the shower unit got changed out for a more powerful one such as you now have. It should have a supply circuit cabable of 40A to ensure it doesn't get heat damaged with use, but that isn't the cause of the pull switch failure, as @Midwest has said.
That makes more sense as mentioned I have only live here a year and got through three pull cord switches.
When the pull cord starts stic
Hi Linksy - The 6mm cable and 32A mcb is likely good for a 7.5kW shower, which might have been what you started with. Probably later on the shower unit got changed out for a more powerful one such as you now have. It should have a supply circuit cabable of 40A to ensure it doesn't get heat damaged with use, but that isn't the cause of the pull switch failure, as @Midwest has said.
The times we have changed the pull switch is because the inner has been burnt resulting in it melting mechanism.
When I told my relative they were concerned about the cable size and shower size. (They currently working night shifts so don’t want to disturb)
 
Do you still have any of the damaged pull switches, or remember what they were? A pic is always nice :)
Admittedly it was only a cheap 45A pull switch from B&Q... The connections weren’t loose as they were checked a couple weeks later but obviously the quality not the best...
 
So a quality pull cord seems to be the way everyone is leading more towards.
Must admit that’s a bit of a relief if it turns out to be that as dread to think the costs of cable replacing.
 
Or a 45Amp one connected up properly.
could just be poor quality switches. click now do a 50A round one, just like the crabby one. as long as cable is not under insulation, then i'sgo with a 50A switch and a 40A breaker on that 6.0mm. (9500/240 = 39.6A ( to 1 dec.pl.)) so 6mm rated @ 47A will be fine.

tin hat firmly in place.
 
he was of course joking. i charged him for the switch and 2 pints labour.
 
That makes more sense as mentioned I have only live here a year and got through three pull cord switches.
When the pull cord starts stic

The times we have changed the pull switch is because the inner has been burnt resulting in it melting mechanism.
When I told my relative they were concerned about the cable size and shower size. (They currently working night shifts so don’t want to disturb)

If you've had issues with the terminals overheating (for whatever reason), if the cable ends have had thermal damage, just replacing the pull cord is not going to solve the problem, the replacement will go eventually. You'd have to cut the cable back until you some nice shiny copper wire :)

Edit; don't know why people insist on using the pull cord to turn an electric shower on/off, when the shower has a perfectly good (and more functional) on/off switch itself. After all its just for safe isolation, more than a functional switch, I'd guess a manufacturer would say?
 
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