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Control Panel for 3ph Heaters Panel low detail - EletriciansForums.net Heres a recent one i did just to express the slotted trunking suggestion and how neat a simple cheap addition actually looks.
 
im trying bare with me

Darkwood thanks for bearing with me.
As I said I only need two poles so you think that contactor I posted earlier with 1,2,3,4 + A1 + A2 will be ok? It doesn't have any NO contacts though. But looking at this drawing it doesnt matter? Correct?
 
Control Panel for 3ph Heaters JJ roller panel - EletriciansForums.netTrying to see if can get it larger.

Contactors are generally N/O ..this is the de-energised state the one you have i assume has 2 N/O poles that close when coil is energised, re' this pick it would normally not be as tight and compact but has some space restrictions as it was a sample and will have all its internals removed and fitted into a main cab of a larger control system, also due to this just been a temp' set up ive left out a cooling fan and filter just in case any keen eyes try pulling me on it.
 
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Wow that looks ace Darkwood. This is what I will hopefully one day achieve lol.
So what I will do now is go home and try and figure out what you guys have done and report this evening with another drawing.
 
:blush5:...... believe it or not this is a simpler set up than yours, dont get overwelmed by the drives but it was rushed and i was restricted with spec's on the cab' size so got a little more crowded than i like, only difference here to yours is the trunking and the numbering of all cables but you can see what a £10 worth of extra gear can achieve.
 
:blush5:...... believe it or not this is a simpler set up than yours, dont get overwelmed by the drives but it was rushed and i was restricted with spec's on the cab' size so got a little more crowded than i like, only difference here to yours is the trunking and the numbering of all cables but you can see what a £10 worth of extra gear can achieve.


You see as much as I would love to pay someone to do the job first time around, I love to know how things work.
When I sell a pce of equipment I love to know how each and everything works. Before I come on this forum I wasn't that clued up on how a contactor worked, etc... and to be honest I am probably still a bit lost but at least now if anything goes wrong or the customer asks me a question I can give him an answer based on my experiences and that in my business is priceless. I hate nothing more than speaking with someone about something and he says "Ill have to ask my boss...".
I have drew the control circuit out on paper and see what you think. Please let me know if I have got all the wires going to the correct place. (please ignore the writing diagram which doesnt have anything going to A1!)

Control Panel for 3ph Heaters photohlx - EletriciansForums.net
 

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it would function but it is poor design, consider a latching stop button or holding stop in, at the same time push start this will pull the contactor in, your stop button should be before the start in series and take your latching relay source from the outgoing off the stop button, this way it breaks both power to the start button and power to the latch loop.
Put your stop before your start in series then take your supply to terminal marked 2 from the out going of the stop or input of the start (same thing)

If you follow that ....now if you hold stop in and press start it wont pull the contactor in.
 
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Out of curiosity what do you normally sell?
I sell industrial equipment that filtrates liquid into a 5 micron level ensuring particle free liquids. Mainly aimed at oil people who buy and or collect used vegetable oil and want it filtering down to remove solids.
 
Thanks Spark, I was following the drawing cause it says on the drawing to have the stop button interrupt the live into l1? Is this not correct?

On the drawing I did, the stop is above the start button, it is just conventionally done this way, as it interrupts both the coil and the contact.

In fact the drawing I gave you is more like this:

Edit: Drawing corrected after Richard pointed out my mistake
 

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I think part of my trouble was understanding how the start button stays closed when it's normally open. Am I correct in saying that the moment the start button is pressed it is feeding in a loop and as a result stays retained
 
I think part of my trouble was understanding how the start button stays closed when it's normally open. Am I correct in saying that the moment the start button is pressed it is feeding in a loop and as a result stays retained

Your start button is N/O , it closes temporarily (when you press it), this energises the coil pulling in the contacts, one of the contacts then keeps the coil energised even after the start button has opened again (finger off), ie. it is self sustaining, until you break the circuit again with the stop button.
 
The "switch" 1-2 is supplying the coil in parallel with the start supply. Once the contactor is energised using the start button it closes 1-2 which then supplies the coil and so keeps the contactor actuated.

To stop the contactor you need to interrupt the supply going to 2 to deactivate the contactor, the two mods above would leave the contactor actuated, as they are disconnecting the start button supply to A1, perhaps try this.
Edit talking rubbish here, this would not work, you could never start!


Edit2 the stop button is NC so it would work, what an idiot, think before posting!!!
 

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You are of course 100% correct Richard, my mistake LOL, Iam in the middle of filling in an EIC and not paying attention.

I will edit the above drawings.

Edit: I did make a mistake on my drawing too though Richard, it's that time of night on a Friday lol.
 
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Sorry Jp all gets a bit vague at this point.

My drawing in post 97 would work and would disconnect the contactor when you press the stop button, however this would not disconnect the supply to terminal 3 in the drawing (although the contactor being off would stop the supply to the stat). Spark68 has edited his picture in post 94 so that all the supplies to all the terminals in the contactor (bar the neutral) will be disconnected by the stop button and will also work and be more secure (in case of the contactor welding closed, etc.)
 

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