How are you intending to limit the usage of the showers to 1 at a time? if you go the route you have outlined all on the same CU is fine, You will of course need to apply diversity to the whole installation not just the showers and cooker.
Interesting point. Can't be bothered fitting contactor, no need. Was told by engineer that 80 amp is big enough fuse for cut-out, as very few properties need 100 amp. Any way, I fitted 100 amp fuse when I fitted meter. His arguement was that if you fit 100 amp it could get too hot if you are pulling 100 amps. My reasoning is that an 80 amp will get even hotter, as it will take the 100 amps for quite some time. Any way cut out is 100 amp.
Jamie'
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Could always add a booster for your main water?
Not sure why you would want 2 electric showers if your only ever going to use one at a time?
Diversity doesn't apply to showers either so if your using 10.5kw showers and both are on at the same time your going to be drawing 90amps so your Your not far away from your 100amps cut out.
Not sure why you would want 2 electric showers if your only ever going to use one at a time?
Diversity doesn't apply to showers either so if your using 10.5kw showers and both are on at the same time your going to be drawing 90amps so your Your not far away from your 100amps cut out.
O
Octopus
Maybe ask BCO and see what they say ...
O
Octopus
Well, non scheme member doing rewire in England - surely you're going to notify BCO before you start so they can inspect at every stage?
Judging by previos posts I doubt it.
Well you have been given the correct answer that there is no diversity allowed with showers.
However I did a cu change a while back at busy holiday cottage which had quite happily been running 3 x 8.5kW showers plus all the normal appliances for the last 10-15 years through a 60A fuse. The main shower now fed by a combi
Isn't it only a DNO network planner who can decide on the size fuse you have? What is the rating of your meter? I think you may have misunderstood the 100A fuse issue, the fuse carriers were overheating before the fuse would blow therefore whenever seen (this is what happens locally) they are reduced to 80/60A so that the fuse blows before the carrier gets too hot. What size supply does your supply agreement state? Locally our agreements are for 15kVA so an 80A fuse is the most suitable.
However I did a cu change a while back at busy holiday cottage which had quite happily been running 3 x 8.5kW showers plus all the normal appliances for the last 10-15 years through a 60A fuse. The main shower now fed by a combi
Isn't it only a DNO network planner who can decide on the size fuse you have? What is the rating of your meter? I think you may have misunderstood the 100A fuse issue, the fuse carriers were overheating before the fuse would blow therefore whenever seen (this is what happens locally) they are reduced to 80/60A so that the fuse blows before the carrier gets too hot. What size supply does your supply agreement state? Locally our agreements are for 15kVA so an 80A fuse is the most suitable.
Seems odd every time that question is asked of a DIYer it goes all quiet
I actually got a call from someone on Wednesday asking if I could test and certify 2 semi detached houses that the owner had wired, saying his electrician had let him down and he'd ran out of time, but as he had some knowledge 'of electrics' he's done it himself, including all 2nd fixing. I don't know about anyone elses opinion but I wont be doing it there is no chance i would sign my name under a full rewire by a DIY expert
Very often DIY jobs are done to a higher standard than those done by so called proffesionals, so let's not go down that road. Any way, I suppose that means none of you would do any work on your car or van, as you're not 'a professional'? Actually what I meant was is it normal practice to fit 2 showers in a cu. I know there is no diversity on their use. As stated they won't be used together. And Mathewd29, if you don't know how to wire and test a shower it's not up to me to tell you!
My comments wern't aimed at you personally Matthew, I don't doubt you professionalism, nor for electrical work either, but in general a lot of diy do a very good job, whatever it is, and some professionals don't. Perhaps I gave the impression I think most diyers are better, not what I meant. Like I say, many motorists do work on their cars, which is possibly potentially more dangerous than doing some wiring, and they have no mechanical training, but they do as good a job as a garage would. I just don't agree that unless you have the necessary electrical ticket you can't do a safe job that complies with the regs, other than not being signed off.
You don't need a ticket, you need to be competent. Your original question proves a lack of competence.
There is a line when dipping into other areas of expertise. I'm sure many people could change the oil and filters in their car without being mechanics but wouldn't try and change a gearbox.
They would likely struggle to do an MOT too without having the right paperwork to back them up!
Why should it be up to us to tell you how to do it!
There is a line when dipping into other areas of expertise. I'm sure many people could change the oil and filters in their car without being mechanics but wouldn't try and change a gearbox.
They would likely struggle to do an MOT too without having the right paperwork to back them up!
Why should it be up to us to tell you how to do it!
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At no point did I insinuate the regulations were wrong.
In my opinion you answered your own question in your original post:
If this is the case then I see no reason not to have them both on the same board. At the very least I would put them on different RCDs (if it's a split load board), to minimise potential overheating issues as the RCDs tend to be rated at 63/80A. The only time a problem may arise is if/when you come to sell the house.
I'll add that when I was serving my time we completed an EICR on a 12 bed guesthouse (with attached 3 bed owners accomodation). The guesthouse was supplied with a standard "100A" domestic supply. The install was spread over 3 or 4 boards to accommodate various extensions/renovations over the years. There was in total 13 electric showers within the property ranging from 7.5 to 10.5kW! No reports of problems from the owners in the 5 years they'd owned the place!
Thanks for reply, I wasn't suggesting you'd said regulations were wrong. My point was that whether doing electrics or car repairs, if you do the work to the regulations, or the the workshop manual, and some one says you've not done it right, or that it is dangerous, then they must be saying the regs or workshop manual is wrong. Because that person has no formal qualifications in that subject doesn't necessarily mean it's wrong. And thanks for the point on the split board. I was going to do that. Glad I'm on the right track!
O
Octopus
As a homeowner, you are aware of part P. What you are proposing is breaking the law and you know it
I will take issue on this Percyprod, a Motoring workshop manual is a how to guide, BS7671 the wiring regulations are not, so there is a difference in my opinion.
David M
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No one is suggesting that you are not capable of doing the installation work. Many experienced competent people are quite capable of doing a good installation job. What is important is that you are able to do the necessary inspection & testing, be fully competent at doing the required tests and procedures and have the knowledge to understand and interpret the results.
You may argue that all the install is brand new and if done correctly will be trouble free. Well in the majority of cases this might be so. BUT the whole point of testing is to make sure there are no faults and that the installation is safe to use. Occasionally even brand new installs have unforeseen problems regardless how much care and attention is taken.
One of my apprentices had just that last week. A brand new install throwing up a high R1 & R2 reading. Turned out to be a "brand new" faulty isolator terminal. If no test had taken place and this circuit was energised it would have been potentially dangerous.
[/QUOTE]I'll add that when I was serving my time we completed an EICR on a 12 bed guesthouse (with attached 3 bed owners accomodation). The guesthouse was supplied with a standard "100A" domestic supply. The install was spread over 3 or 4 boards to accommodate various extensions/renovations over the years. There was in total 13 electric showers within the property ranging from 7.5 to 10.5kW! No reports of problems from the owners in the 5 years they'd owned the place![/QUOTE]
Hi resu,
I know this is an old thread, but I'm wandering what code you gave the property with 13 electric showers.
The reason I ask is I have been to quote for 7 bed guest house and they have 8 electric showers on one split board CU. supplied by 1 phase. Obviously I would codee C2 for overloading of each of the 63A rcd,s and the 100a rated main switch.
The dilemma I had was the customer asked if the showers are split between 3 boards would it comply. I feel no so would still give a C2 as the main incoming 100A fuse would be overloaded.
There is no visible sign of overheating inside the CU.
I have to make clear I am just at the quote stage and pointed this out to the owner as I was having a quick look to give him an estimate.
I have in the past split 5 existing showers in a guest house and gave it a C3 with a big statement/ risk assessment and advisory attached to eir.
But 8......
Hi resu,
I know this is an old thread, but I'm wandering what code you gave the property with 13 electric showers.
The reason I ask is I have been to quote for 7 bed guest house and they have 8 electric showers on one split board CU. supplied by 1 phase. Obviously I would codee C2 for overloading of each of the 63A rcd,s and the 100a rated main switch.
The dilemma I had was the customer asked if the showers are split between 3 boards would it comply. I feel no so would still give a C2 as the main incoming 100A fuse would be overloaded.
There is no visible sign of overheating inside the CU.
I have to make clear I am just at the quote stage and pointed this out to the owner as I was having a quick look to give him an estimate.
I have in the past split 5 existing showers in a guest house and gave it a C3 with a big statement/ risk assessment and advisory attached to eir.
But 8......
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O
Octopus
C2 for the overload
1 CU , 2 CU's or 3 CU's - that is irrelevant/
1 CU , 2 CU's or 3 CU's - that is irrelevant/
Agreed, thanks murdock.
M
MDJ
You can put 145 shower circuits in if you like, just make sure your supplied load can cope with them, that aside, don't forget to allow the extra building work you need to be done now, might as well widen all those doorways in your house at the same time so your only making a mess once, at your age it won't be long before your wheel chair will get used more and more
Yes, we coded it C2, along with a few other things!
They've recently sold up and the new owners have just had planning permission granted for a 14 bed extension. Hopefully they're planning a major overhaul of the existing part of the property too!
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