Flex and push-fit connectors (mostly in lights)

[Electrics]

How do you guys terminate these when using flex?

I'm talking these things found in light fittings: https://www.saxbylighting.com/image...a61727463c42674eaa46ff0000f3e563.jpg?sfvrsn=0

I twist the strands together and then try to push them in. The problem is a lot of the time the connection doesn't feel great and often you'll get some strands push back out as you push the wire in, meaning you have to take out, retwist and then redo.

A right PITA.

Is there really no better way of doing this? I thought about ferrules but they don't fit.

So how do you do it with flex?

 

[ipf]

Is there something wrong with that? I thought ferrules were for flex/stranded?

There is if they won't fit in the terminal holes......and they won't, as well as ferrules in spring camps, as explained. A read through previous posts, maybe.
Those terms are made for solid core, really, but will take flex. The other end has flex going out to the fitting.
Remove the block, then, patience and get it right is the plan.

 

[Electrics]

There is if they won't fit in the terminal holes......and they won't, as well as ferrules in spring camps, as explained. A read through previous posts, maybe.
Those terms are made for solid core, really, but will take flex. The other end has flex going out to the fitting.
Remove the block, then, patience and get it right is the plan.

That's what i said - i just thought 'hmm maybe a ferrule would do that' but then discovered they wouldn't. I'm just puzzled that there isn't a better way to do this. The connections in these fittings aren't great imo, they always feel flimsy and getting them in properly is a faff. The only 'solution' i can think of is making them lever-up like a wago instead of push down.

 

[ferg]

This method sometimes gives disappointing results with everything from terminal blocks to spaceships. RTFM.

Tena to the rescue.

 

[telectrix]

all depends on the make of the fitting. some terminals are good and easy to use, some are crap. the JCC ones are excellent, but do require a fair bit of force to open them.

 

[Electrics]

all depends on the make of the fitting. some terminals are good and easy to use, some are crap. the JCC ones are excellent, but do require a fair bit of force to open them.

We've been using Bell Lighting stuff. Never feels like a good connection and it's very hit and miss, some go straight in and others just push back cores several times before it works right.

Surprised there's not a better way of doing it - i never liked putting stranded cable in any termination without ferrules or at a push solder because it always just feels crap to me.

 

[pirate]

Some of the terminals on these light fittings are very small indeed. I fitted a new one yesterday, an Ikea one which was, surprisingly, well thought out for a change, but the screw terminals are tiny.
Removing the old light I could see it was wire as follows: (This is in Spain)
1. Two wires coming out of the wall, with not much length to them.

 

[pirate]

Just fitted an Ikea wall light yesterday, and it wasn't as rubbish as I'd expected. Well thought out from an installation viewpoint, and it's one of those so-called double insulated ones. Inspection shows it's a good effort and I cant really envisage anything going wrong in normal use. Just as well, as the lighting circuit has no cpc...
However, the screw terminals are tiny. The original wall light is ceramic lantern-style, and I believe it has been installed for over 20 years. The original was connected as follows:
1. Two cables coming out hole in wall, with not much length on them.
2. Choc-block connectors from those wires feeding bell-wire
3. The bell wire is connected to a metal lampholder which simply sits in the bottom of the lantern
4. The lampholder is secured in place and "insulated" by clever use of bubble-wrap and double-sided sticky tape...

Anyway, those tiny terminals...
The circuit is wired in stranded singles, black and blue (It's in Spain) and weirdly the two cables are of different gauges...the smaller one just fitted into the terminal, the larger one was very tricky, but tight twisting and pliers eventually got it fitted. I'd have preferred to extend the original cables with something more suitable, but there's nowhere to put the extra cabling as the fitting has no room and you can't push extra cable back into the wall unless you bash a hole into the concrete wall.

I presume that when the original circuit was installed, the different gauge wires were just what they had on the van....

 

[pirate]

Sorry for part double-post! The first bit disappeared so i started again! Then up it popped...which is something I don't say much these days!

 

[telectrix]

Sorry for part double-post! The first bit disappeared so i started again! Then up it popped...which is something I don't say much these days!

bitlike the Marie Celeste then?

 

[Lister1987]

Uninsulated ferrules should work fine, if they work fine on ceiling roses and pendants, they should work here, failing that go for pin ferrules as they'll give a small 'pin' area to go into the connector itself.

 

[telectrix]

should not use ferrules on spring clamps. only use ferrules if fine stranded wire is under a screw.

 

[Lister1987]

should not use ferrules on spring clamps. only use ferrules if fine stranded wire is under a screw.

Surely it males it no difference to a solid conductor at this point and, being uninsulated, has minimal plastic/shoulder to obstruct insertion?

 

[westward10]

27 posts over fitting a stranded wire to a connector, a connector which will accept this type of wire. Unbelievable no wonder this country is the way it is?

 

[telectrix]

27 posts over fitting a stranded wire to a connector, a connector which will accept this type of wire. Unbelievable no wonder this country is the way it is?

29 now.

 

[telectrix]

can we now go on to discuss why builders and plumbers should not do electricalwork, or don't trust a fork lift driver to lift you up to the high bays. that's usually good for a laugh.