Discuss Help and Advice For New Installation In Celotex PL4065 in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hello all,

First of all I would like to say if anyone comes here just to have a go because I'm not as experienced or knowledgeable as them etc.. then please do not comment just move along, I am here asking questions to learn not be belittled.

Now, I am a newly qualified electrician and have been asked to run the 1st fix for someone in a new house extension.

The drawing states:

Internal dry lining 65mm Celotex PL4065 + 12.5mm Plasterboard - Taped Joints.

To my understanding this will be most likely adhered to the new block work directly is this right?

Now do I fix the cables for the new ring main direct to the block work in an oval conduit, then instruct the guys installing the celotex to cut the insulation out around the cable ends where the PB boxes will go or is there another/better way to do it?

Any suggestions are welcome as long as they are constructive lol

Many thanks in advance
 
Why go to the trouble of fixing metal boxes when you have plasterboard and a big void in behind ? You're also relying on 'others' to cut the plasterboard really accurately around the boxes which is a rare thing to see these days.
 
Because it's the way I was taught to do things on my apprenticeship and see no reason to fit plastic boxes as an alternative.

They don't have much choice about cutting out for the boxes if they are set to the right depth to be flush with the front of the board.

And plasterboard boxes don't fit so well in insulation backed board anyway
 
Well I also used metal boxes for years and still do on solid walls, then dry lining boxes were invented for plasterboard- more roomy, less work and insulated ! Cutting out a bit of Celotex with a couple of slots for the box lugs is an absolute doddle.
 
I personally would not use a cavity box for a socket on a job where I could get in at first fix. I have seen too many broken plasterboard walls from the inserting and withdrawing of plugs into stiff sockets. I always use metal boxes on wooden noggings in stud walls, and only resort to cavity boxes for jobs where I have no option.
 
Well I also used metal boxes for years and still do on solid walls, then dry lining boxes were invented for plasterboard- more roomy, less work and insulated ! Cutting out a bit of Celotex with a couple of slots for the box lugs is an absolute doddle.

As Andy has pointed out, plasterboard boxes can pull out of the plasterboard.

Plus you have that annoying white flange if you fit anything other than white plastic accessories.

I wouldn't call it a doddle getting the damn stuff off of the back of the plasterboard after is been fitted.
 
Davesparks thank you for replying.

Ok that was my other thought, would you suggest leaving a gap between the two back box spacers for the cable to go up and through the back of the box?

Does this make sense?
 
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No, you want your box to be flush with the front of the plasterboard, otherwise you'll be packing it out with collars!
 
what he said, and route the cables behind the board on the same side as the boxes will be.
 
This is what I was thinking Im not sure what I said before was clear (or maybe it was lol)
Help and Advice For New Installation In Celotex PL4065 {filename} | ElectriciansForums.net
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bring the cables up the other side, straight into the boxes. be best to do this as they fit the celotex, and channel for cables before board is nailed on.
 
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There's no such thing as a 32mm metal flush box, it's either 25,35 or 47mm. , I've never had any problems with good quality, properly installed dry lining boxes either and if they're fitted before skimming then the white flange is flush with the surface so no lip.And I do find it easy to dig away a little bit of celotex for the fixing lugs, takes moments. But if people want to make work for themselves and go with the more traditional method that's fine too.
 
If you're going with metal boxes I'd suggest at least 35mm given the space you have - the customer may want to fit flat plate decorative sockets in the future and you'll never get them to fit on a 25mm deep box.
 

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