How to move primary ground at water heater.

don6267 · May 5, 2020

Hello, from North Texas, I am a long time DIYer.

I have a question about possibly changing or moving the electrical ground from the electrical load center, breaker box, that is clamped to the cold water copper supply line at the electric water heater. The breaker box is marked "Primary ground at water heater; secondary ground at grounding rod."
If it becomes necessary to cut the cold water supply line to change out the cut-off valve & attach new supply line to the water heater then I might need to move the clamp that connects the grounding wire to the cold water line. Also, I plan to use either Sharkbite fittings or compression fittings to make the necessary connection to the new cut-off valve. I do not want to sweat copper fittings.
There is not enough copper pipe extending beyond the wall to cut and attach a fitting and then attach the ground clamp, so I would need to move the grounding clamp back into the wall. If I move the grounding clamp back inside the wall and install a Sharkbite fitting between the grounding clamp and the cut-off valve to make the new connection will the ground continuity to the water heater be broken or is grounding beyond the clamp necessary? Will attempt to attach pictures.

Thanks,

donView attachment 57975 View attachment 57976

Megawatt · May 6, 2020

don6267 said:
Hello, from North Texas, I am a long time DIYer.

I have a question about possibly changing or moving the electrical ground from the electrical load center, breaker box, that is clamped to the cold water copper supply line at the electric water heater. The breaker box is marked "Primary ground at water heater; secondary ground at grounding rod."
If it becomes necessary to cut the cold water supply line to change out the cut-off valve & attach new supply line to the water heater then I might need to move the clamp that connects the grounding wire to the cold water line. Also, I plan to use either Sharkbite fittings or compression fittings to make the necessary connection to the new cut-off valve. I do not want to sweat copper fittings.
There is not enough copper pipe extending beyond the wall to cut and attach a fitting and then attach the ground clamp, so I would need to move the grounding clamp back into the wall. If I move the grounding clamp back inside the wall and install a Sharkbite fitting between the grounding clamp and the cut-off valve to make the new connection will the ground continuity to the water heater be broken or is grounding beyond the clamp necessary? Will attempt to attach pictures.

Thanks,

donView attachment 57975 View attachment 57976

Don you can remove the ground to do what you need to do but you need to reinstall the ground when you are done. All metal piping must be grounded according to the 2020 article 250 in the edition of the NEC

don6267 · May 6, 2020

Megawatt said:
Don you can remove the ground to do what you need to do but you need to reinstall the ground when you are done. All metal piping must be grounded according to the 2020 article 250 in the edition of the NEC

Thank you for replying to my post. My problem is that I will need to use the spot on the copper pipe that the ground is clamped onto to attach the male fitting for the new valve. So, my question is this: If I move the ground clamp back on the pipe inside the wall & attach a Sharkbite fitting between the clamp & the cutoff valve will that break the ground to the heater or is ground to the heater required? See picture.

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Megawatt · May 6, 2020

don6267 said:
Thank you for replying to my post. My problem is that I will need to use the spot on the copper pipe that the ground is clamped onto to attach the male fitting for the new valve. So, my question is this: If I move the ground clamp back on the pipe inside the wall & attach a Sharkbite fitting between the clamp & the cutoff valve will that break the ground to the heater or is ground to the heater required? See picture.

View attachment 57990
[automerge]1588775958[/automerge]

All metal piping has to be bonded and if it can conduct electricity it must be bonded. Where you bond is up to you and good luck

don6267 · May 7, 2020

Megawatt said:
All metal piping has to be bonded and if it can conduct electricity it must be bonded. Where you bond is up to you and good luck

My problem is a lack of understanding the purpose/function of the grounding wire that is clamped to the cold water supply pipe at the water heater. Does the wire supply grounding to both the copper piping system of the house and to the water heater or just to the piping system? Also, there is not a bonding wire between the cold & hot water copper piping.
I have read that the Sharkbite fittings do not provide electric continuity through the pipe.
If I remove the cutoff valve, which is between the grounding clamp & the cold water connection at the heater, and connect a sharkbite fitting to the copper pipe which will then connect the water supply to the heater will I disrupt the ground to the heater? Does the water heater need grounding? If I connect a jumper wire across the Sharkbite fitting to maintain continuity would that meet inspection code?
Sorry for the dumb questions. I have installed water heaters in houses that were piped with PEX and the bonding/grounding was not an issue, but this house, my house, is piped with copper and I want to get this right.

Megawatt · May 7, 2020

don6267 said:
My problem is a lack of understanding the purpose/function of the grounding wire that is clamped to the cold water supply pipe at the water heater. Does the wire supply grounding to both the copper piping system of the house and to the water heater or just to the piping system? Also, there is not a bonding wire between the cold & hot water copper piping.
I have read that the Sharkbite fittings do not provide electric continuity through the pipe.
If I remove the cutoff valve, which is between the grounding clamp & the cold water connection at the heater, and connect a sharkbite fitting to the copper pipe which will then connect the water supply to the heater will I disrupt the ground to the heater? Does the water heater need grounding? If I connect a jumper wire across the Sharkbite fitting to maintain continuity would that meet inspection code?
Sorry for the dumb questions. I have installed water heaters in houses that were piped with PEX and the bonding/grounding was not an issue, but this house, my house, is piped with copper and I want to get this right.

Here’s the reason that the NEC wants if especially water piping is real good conductor. There’s been stories of people crawling under houses and grab the water pipe and got electrocuted and died. I’m just trying to keep you safe and anyone else. The hot water heater is already grounded by the power to it. It’s basically a redundant ground with safety in mind.
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Megawatt said:
Here’s the reason that the NEC wants if especially water piping is real good conductor. There’s been stories of people crawling under houses and grab the water pipe and got electrocuted and died. I’m just trying to keep you safe and anyone else. The hot water heater is already grounded by the power to it. It’s basically a redundant ground with safety in mind.

Keep this in mind that they are some terrible guys that do electrical work and I’m not going to call them electricians that do awful work with no regard to human life and I’m usually going behind them to make it right and safe. I have been doing electrical work for over 30 years and I’ve seen my share of dangerous things especially under houses. Good luck