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Hi guys.
Electrician will soon rewire my kitchen and some questions arises about sockets and isolator switches.
I think they look ugly and don't want them on sight.
Is it possible to install only two isolator switches one for oven and hob, and the second for electric instantaneous water heater.
What about fridge freezer, washing machine, dishwasher, microwave oven, and fan extractor do they need isolation? Can't there be just plug behind appliance? Or maybe one isolator for all of them?
Thanks
 
What you are trying to avoid is not being able to isolate or an appliance because the appliance itself blocks the means to be able to isolate it. This is a particular problem with integrated appliances.

You could have a single position to isolate appliances from, google kitchen grid switch.

You could have sockets and isolators in cupboards as long as they are accessible and free from potential damage from use of the cupboard.

You could even have a central isolating position within a cupboard if the layout suited it.

Cooking appliance isolators are always best readily accessible above worktops.
 
A quick and obvious means of isolation can be a life saver, I would not hide them away because it looks better.

Imagine having just put a load in the tumble dryer, turned it on and 3 min later, smoke starts coming out of it.

An easily accessible and identified isolator will save you precious time, not having to remember what cupboard the switch is in then pull all the pots and pans etc out to get to the switch whilst the room fills up with smoke.
 
end of the day, a kitchen is for cooking etc. it's not a fashion statement to impress the neighbours.
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our kitchen is longish but narrow, more like a galley. at least Mrs. Tel can reach both hob, coffee pot, and sink simultaneously, not like some of these modern kitchens where you walk a mile between appliances.
 
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Put them all in a larder unit, with a panel brought forward so it's easy to access and see what isolator does what (as long as they are labelled, obviously).

I'd usually do about 30-40 kitchens a year and this is the most popular way of installing them by far.
 
As mentioned many times before, there is no regulation whatsoever that says you must have isolator switches for as nothing in a kitchen.
as above, good access to the socket and plug is necessary, it’s hard to move a washing machine, to get at the plug, when it is full of water and wet clothes.
 
As mentioned many times before, there is no regulation whatsoever that says you must have isolator switches for as nothing in a kitchen.
as above, good access to the socket and plug is necessary, it’s hard to move a washing machine, to get at the plug, when it is full of water and wet clothes.
In Scotland the building regs require it.



For the OP.
You can make them less hideous but not by much.
This is what mine look like to give you an idea.
On the RHS is what the grid would look like with SS switch modules.
 

Attachments

  • Grid 01.pdf
    2.4 MB · Views: 79
  • Grid 02.pdf
    2.6 MB · Views: 73
In Scotland the building regs require it.



For the OP.
You can make them less hideous but not by much.
This is what mine look like to give you an idea.
On the RHS is what the grid would look like with SS switch modules.
that worktop is far too clean and tidy. is mrs. ferg. on strike? :p :p :p
 
That particular range is Hager Sollysta grid.

Your own electrician may have a preferred brand though.
 
Interesting if kitchen units constitute the fabric of the building, debatable.
As a side point, while this is not the electricians install problem (Unless MI state as a requirement), my mother in law just had a fire inspector do a free survey and she stated the she should isolate the DW and TD each evening, she now can't get to the back of the adjecent cupboard to do so, should have at least been put nearer the front.
 

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