Discuss Microwaves and kettles all failed Class 1 test in the Electrical Testing & PAT Testing Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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HI guys, new to PAT testing and here. I recently completed an online course in order to carry out PAT tests annually in 10 rented houses. Unfortunately all the microwaves and kettles in each property failed Class 1 testing. I am using a Martindale HPAT 400 tester and am obviously doing something wrong or overlooking something. Please can anyone help? Thank you x Sharon
 
I've got no experience of these basic PA Testers so don't know if it tells you what it's failed on but as they are all class I I assume it's earth bond? You are using the earth probe and connecting it to a bare metal part of the kettle/m'wave? Don't try on any painted parts
 
Once, many moons ago, there were metal kettles that fails the bond test as t'was to the element's sheath that was favoured by the Earth.

And lo! Had they used conductive water the outer would have measured the Lord's conductance and seen it was good!
 
Sounds like you are having a problem with the earth bond test (Class II does not require this test). As above you need to ensure the earth bond test lead is in good contact with the earthed metalwork, for a microwave they normally have four screws on the lower edge holding the case in place. For the kettle you need to contact the element if it is a plastic kettle but metal kettles the actual metal parts should be earthed.
 
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Think about it, the only difference between class 1 and 2 tests is the. Earth bond test.
How are you doing the test?
 
Sounds like you are having a problem with the earth bond test (Class II) does not require this test. As above you need to ensure the earth bond test lead is in good contact with the earthed metalwork, for a microwave they normally have four screws on the lower edge holding the case in place. For the kettle you need to contact the element if it is a plastic kettle but metal kettles the actual metal parts should be earthed.
Thank you. I will retest.
 
Testing at the element can be a bit hit and miss if it is not shiny and new so you need to break through any build up on it. Ensure it is firmly attached to its base.
 
You should be holding the probe firmly against the metal with a bit of force, not just touching it lightly.
 
This is one of those things where it is essential to understand what each part of the test is doing. Luckily in this case it is failing, but I've seen people perform ridiculous tests which will always pass, even though nothing is actually being tested.

Testing figure 8 mains leads anyone?
 
This is one of those things where it is essential to understand what each part of the test is doing. Luckily in this case it is failing, but I've seen people perform ridiculous tests which will always pass, even though nothing is actually being tested.

Testing figure 8 mains leads anyone?
I give you 50/50 on correct polarity!!
 
Testing figure 8 mains leads anyone?
True, no CPC or polarity to verify there.

But the opposite gets me, folk passing USB chargers visually on the basis of no earth pin and no cable. To me you ought to be checking the insulation between the L&N and the USB socket is good as I have heard enough horror stories of fake chargers killing folk (usually semi-Darwin by using things in the bath which plugged in to charge, but you get my point).
 
I give you 50/50 on correct polarity!!

I had to explain to a guy working for a pat testing company that the live and neutral were connected together during the test, so no point doing the IR test. And also as you say the polarity issue!

He was happily pressing test and waiting for the pass light each time ?
 
This is one of those things where it is essential to understand what each part of the test is doing. Luckily in this case it is failing, but I've seen people perform ridiculous tests which will always pass, even though nothing is actually being tested.

Testing figure 8 mains leads anyone?
Thank you. It appears that the guy who used to do our tests did everything as a class 2!
 

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