Needing Input - Major renovation planning.

[Helloworld88]

Hey All! Living here is Sunny SW Florida and loving it. Getting ready to do some kitchen remodeling, which will have us upgrading our electrical panel. Since we are doing this, we are also considering installing an exterior Main Shutoff and Bypass out by the Utility meter for a couple of reasons. 1) being is Florida, we think about hurricanes and the potential to be without power for days/weeks. We do have a 9000 watt generator, and would like to set things up so that - if we lose power from the utility company, we can fire up the generator, plug it into the bypass, switch over the Interlock Kit to utilize generator power and be good to go. 2) The other reason I am wanting a main shut off at the meter is so WE can shut off our power to the house without having to call and hassle with the electric utility company. So Shut off would simply cut the 200A power to the house, allowing US to do the renovation work and upgrade our Breaker panel ourselves (of course we'll get inspections and permits). Currently, the Utility meter does NOT have any shut off. I think my request to the electrical company/electrition is to replace the current Meter box with one that has a shut off and bypass. Something like a 200 Amp 4-Space 4-Circuit Ringless Overhead/Underground Meter Socket Load Center from Midwest electric. I think I am on the right track - what am I missing?

 

[pc1966]

This is one for our USA members such as @Megawatt who will know for more about the NEC and state-by-state variations.

Over here in the UK we have a rather different set-up since our billing meters are hard-wired in, but the main supply fuse can be removed for isolation (with permission from the supply company, of course, which varies from region to region). However the same principle applies that you need a safe means of changing the DB (panel) supply from the billing meter over to your backup generator. Typically we would be looking at a transfer switch, either manual (cheaper) or an automatic transfer switch (ATS) if you need the generator to kick in quickly (e.g. for farm livestock support, or computer equipment on limited-time UPS, or similar).

In my own work's case we also have two isolators switches: one for the main supply and the other for the generator supply, so we can safely lock off ALL power sources if we need to work on the ATS. However, that is a bit more than a typical domestic setup would have.

 

[Megawatt]

This is one for our USA members such as @Megawatt who will know for more about the NEC and state-by-state variations.

Over here in the UK we have a rather different set-up since our billing meters are hard-wired in, but the main supply fuse can be removed for isolation (with permission from the supply company, of course, which varies from region to region). However the same principle applies that you need a safe means of changing the DB (panel) supply from the billing meter over to your backup generator. Typically we would be looking at a transfer switch, either manual (cheaper) or an automatic transfer switch (ATS) if you need the generator to kick in quickly (e.g. for farm livestock support, or computer equipment on limited-time UPS, or similar).

In my own work's case we also have two isolators switches: one for the main supply and the other for the generator supply, so we can safely lock off ALL power sources if we need to work on the ATS. However, that is a bit more than a typical domestic setup would have.

This is one for our USA members such as @Megawatt who will know for more about the NEC and state-by-state variations.

Over here in the UK we have a rather different set-up since our billing meters are hard-wired in, but the main supply fuse can be removed for isolation (with permission from the supply company, of course, which varies from region to region). However the same principle applies that you need a safe means of changing the DB (panel) supply from the billing meter over to your backup generator. Typically we would be looking at a transfer switch, either manual (cheaper) or an automatic transfer switch (ATS) if you need the generator to kick in quickly (e.g. for farm livestock support, or computer equipment on limited-time UPS, or similar).

In my own work's case we also have two isolators switches: one for the main supply and the other for the generator supply, so we can safely lock off ALL power sources if we need to work on the ATS. However, that is a bit more than a typical domestic setup would have.

You don’t have a choice on installing a disconnect outside your meter because it is required by 2020 edition of the NEC. Your on the right path by installing a 200 amp meter base and a 200 amp panel. As stated above you will need a transfer switch and I’m guessing that you will have #6 wire feeding a 50 amp breaker. You cannot buy a meter with a shut off. Your 200 amp main will be your disconnect. All you need to do is come from the meter to the transfer switch, then you will feed your 200 amp panel off one set of lugs and the generator hooks on the third set of lugs. If you get a manual transfer switch you have to go out and put in the generator mode after your power goes out and having said that you could use a automatic transfer switch. Thank you @pc1966 for the input

 

[Helloworld88]

@Megawatt - thank you for your reply. I am adding some additional details for more clarity and would love your thoughts.
Our plan is to replace the current meter panel/box with a Meter/Main Combo (GE TSMR820CSFLFMG with feed through lugs). This will allow us to power off the house outside by the meter. We will need to run a new ground wire from this new MAIN to the old main (which will become a sub-panel). We'll have to separate the Ground and Neutral in the sub-panel. We will also install an interlock switch so that we can connect up the generator when the power goes out.

What else am I missing?

 

[Megawatt]

@Megawatt - thank you for your reply. I am adding some additional details for more clarity and would love your thoughts.
Our plan is to replace the current meter panel/box with a Meter/Main Combo (GE TSMR820CSFLFMG with feed through lugs). This will allow us to power off the house outside by the meter. We will need to run a new ground wire from this new MAIN to the old main (which will become a sub-panel). We'll have to separate the Ground and Neutral in the sub-panel. We will also install an interlock switch so that we can connect up the generator when the power goes out.

What else am I missing?

Just make sure that when you upgrade your panel you have to add an SPD or surge protection device and also 2 ground rods at least 6 feet apart. Other than that it sounds like you have it under control. Good luck

 

[Megawatt]

Hey All! Living here is Sunny SW Florida and loving it. Getting ready to do some kitchen remodeling, which will have us upgrading our electrical panel. Since we are doing this, we are also considering installing an exterior Main Shutoff and Bypass out by the Utility meter for a couple of reasons. 1) being is Florida, we think about hurricanes and the potential to be without power for days/weeks. We do have a 9000 watt generator, and would like to set things up so that - if we lose power from the utility company, we can fire up the generator, plug it into the bypass, switch over the Interlock Kit to utilize generator power and be good to go. 2) The other reason I am wanting a main shut off at the meter is so WE can shut off our power to the house without having to call and hassle with the electric utility company. So Shut off would simply cut the 200A power to the house, allowing US to do the renovation work and upgrade our Breaker panel ourselves (of course we'll get inspections and permits). Currently, the Utility meter does NOT have any shut off. I think my request to the electrical company/electrition is to replace the current Meter box with one that has a shut off and bypass. Something like a 200 Amp 4-Space 4-Circuit Ringless Overhead/Underground Meter Socket Load Center from Midwest electric. I think I am on the right track - what am I missing?

According to the 2020 edition of the NEC you have to have a disconnect outside at your main panel mainly for the fire department so they can easily cut off the power. You also have to add an SPD or surge protection device as by code. Get to know your inspector and he can be a big help to you. Also your new panel will require 2 ground rods. Don’t use a disconnect the meter base just the main panel should have a 200 amp main breaker. Good luck

 

[Helloworld88]

Thanks for the input. I'll see what kind of beer the inspector likes. Question - you state that just the main panel should have a 200 amp main breaker. Can you help me understand why? My ultimate plan is to replace what is our current MAIN panel (which will become a sub-panel after installing this new panel outside with the meter. I am not planning on replacing the current main panel until sometime later (couple of months?) so it will also have a disconnect.

 

[Helloworld88]

OH! forgot to mention..... the current main panel already has an SPD. Do I move this from the existing main panel to the NEW panel? Or leave it where it is? More info..... The NEW main panel will only have one 50 AMP breaker, along with the 200 AMP disconnect, which will actually be a feed from our generator. Everything else will reside in the sub-panel (currently our main panel).

 

[Megawatt]

Thanks for the input. I'll see what kind of beer the inspector likes. Question - you state that just the main panel should have a 200 amp main breaker. Can you help me understand why? My ultimate plan is to replace what is our current MAIN panel (which will become a sub-panel after installing this new panel outside with the meter. I am not planning on replacing the current main panel until sometime later (couple of months?) so it will also have a disconnect.

Once you involve an inspector he or she is going to make you install a disconnect outside at your main panel. The reason is the code book is drew up by so many people and firms like the NFPA which clearly means National Fire Protection association. They are the ones who you have to install a disconnect outside at your main panel for so if your home ever caught on fire they have a way to kill the power feeding the home.

 

[Helloworld88]

I've added two pics. One is the current set up, the other what I plan to have. Again, is there a reason why I cannot leave the 200 Amp Disconnect on the current Main panel/future sub-panel? I hope the pics help.

 

[Helloworld88]

Once you involve an inspector he or she is going to make you install a disconnect outside at your main panel. The reason is the code book is drew up by so many people and firms like the NFPA which clearly means National Fire Protection association. They are the ones who you have to install a disconnect outside at your main panel for so if your home ever caught on fire they have a way to kill the power feeding the home.

Check out my most recent post (sorry - did not tag you in my response. I have included a couple of pics for clarity

 

[Megawatt]

Thanks for the input. I'll see what kind of beer the inspector likes. Question - you state that just the main panel should have a 200 amp main breaker. Can you help me understand why? My ultimate plan is to replace what is our current MAIN panel (which will become a sub-panel after installing this new panel outside with the meter. I am not planning on replacing the current main panel until sometime later (couple of months?) so it will also have a disconnect.

Check out my most recent post (sorry - did not tag you in my response. I have included a couple of pics for clarity

after looking at your pictures and if you just draw a permit to do the inside panel work you should be alright. I saw a main 200 amp main disconnects in your existing and the one you are going to install in the future. If you don’t have enough space in your existing panel then you can use slim line breakers to free up space.