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Piratepete
The one good thing about this job is that after 15 years I'm still being amazed by what I find.
So, welcome to the house with the wiring from hell. The middle part is about 1850 with extensions at both ends dating from the 80's and 2010 respectively.
I was asked to fit metal light fittings on the landing and one bedroom in the old part. Despite having been apparently rewired at some time in pvc T&E, the landing light was still supplied by single VRI cables, no earth. The stairs light switches (metal) were also connected by VIR, no earth. One switch was secured by a single wood screw to the door frame without any back box!
The 2 bedroom and bathroom lights were wired in PVC T&E but the earth was open circuit. Subsequent investigation showed that the 3 lights were looped together and fed from an original VIR no earth junction box by an electrician who knew he was leaving them unearthed! Well I managed to reroute the supply from the PVC T&E lighting circuit of the older extension via a new hole through the old end wall. I then ripped out a load of VIR in the loft space.
When I lifted the landing floor boards, I found more VIR in use - a cooker circuit in the 2010 extension and lighting in one room downstairs. I've no idea at the moment of the extent of these as the load ends are in PVC!
The old CU was replaced recently by a 17th Edition board. As these lights are at the end of the line, shouldn't the electrician have discovered the lack of earthing when testing?!
As I was leaving (late) the client complained that an outside light had started buzzing. It's a flood with an attached PIR. The 'isolating switch' didn't stop the buzzing though the light went out. So, up the ladder, PIR was hot. A red glow could be seen inside the PIR - as I made my way to the CU to isolate it, it burst into flames!. Couldn't undo the terminal box screws (rusted) so cut the cable. I now have to install a new light and sort out an isolator which doesn't and is apparently wired as a sensor overide.
And that's not all. The PVC T&E used for the lights in the extension was clearly of poor manufacture as it's impossible to separate the neutral from the grey outer sheaf. The electrician at the time has had to connect the neutral into accessory terminals with the grey on it, and I've had to do the same!
Simple CU change tomorrow -haha!
Pete
So, welcome to the house with the wiring from hell. The middle part is about 1850 with extensions at both ends dating from the 80's and 2010 respectively.
I was asked to fit metal light fittings on the landing and one bedroom in the old part. Despite having been apparently rewired at some time in pvc T&E, the landing light was still supplied by single VRI cables, no earth. The stairs light switches (metal) were also connected by VIR, no earth. One switch was secured by a single wood screw to the door frame without any back box!
The 2 bedroom and bathroom lights were wired in PVC T&E but the earth was open circuit. Subsequent investigation showed that the 3 lights were looped together and fed from an original VIR no earth junction box by an electrician who knew he was leaving them unearthed! Well I managed to reroute the supply from the PVC T&E lighting circuit of the older extension via a new hole through the old end wall. I then ripped out a load of VIR in the loft space.
When I lifted the landing floor boards, I found more VIR in use - a cooker circuit in the 2010 extension and lighting in one room downstairs. I've no idea at the moment of the extent of these as the load ends are in PVC!
The old CU was replaced recently by a 17th Edition board. As these lights are at the end of the line, shouldn't the electrician have discovered the lack of earthing when testing?!
As I was leaving (late) the client complained that an outside light had started buzzing. It's a flood with an attached PIR. The 'isolating switch' didn't stop the buzzing though the light went out. So, up the ladder, PIR was hot. A red glow could be seen inside the PIR - as I made my way to the CU to isolate it, it burst into flames!. Couldn't undo the terminal box screws (rusted) so cut the cable. I now have to install a new light and sort out an isolator which doesn't and is apparently wired as a sensor overide.
And that's not all. The PVC T&E used for the lights in the extension was clearly of poor manufacture as it's impossible to separate the neutral from the grey outer sheaf. The electrician at the time has had to connect the neutral into accessory terminals with the grey on it, and I've had to do the same!
Simple CU change tomorrow -haha!
Pete
