UK Qualified electrician to certify my work remotely?

[ajannick]

I currently have a free standing cooker hard wired into a single appliance outlet plate with a cut off switch nearby and a dedicated rcd in my CU (32amp rcd). I want to buy a built in hob and oven and then connect them to a dual appliance outlet plate using 10mm wiring. I’d look for a hob and oven combination of around 12kw.
Would anyone be up for guiding/checking my work via photos I send and then sign it off to cover me legally?
Thanks

 

[Taylortwocities]

Sorry, cannot certify any work done by somebody else, even if I am on site.
As this is the replacement of an existing appliance, there is no legal requirement to notify anything. The best anyone could do is to offer an opinion - if you photo the connections and post them here - and then someone on here might say "that looks alright to me".

 

[ajannick]

Sorry, cannot certify any work done by somebody else, even if I am on site.
As this is the replacement of an existing appliance, there is no legal requirement to notify anything. The best anyone could do is to offer an opinion - if you photo the connections and post them here - and then someone on here might say "that looks alright to me".

Thanks for your reply.
Would there still be no legal requirement as I’m replacing a cooker with hob and oven with a different overall KW?
Do you know if I’d be covered insurance wise?
Thanks

 

[davesparks]

No, certification cannot be done remotely.

 

[pc1966]

For insurance you would have to check your policy, nobody here can answer that.

For 12kW it is around 52A max, for domestic use the diversity calculation suggests a typical use of 23A so the existing 32A circuit is OK.

But...firstly you need to check what the manufacturer specifies as they might have specific guidance for the appliance that should be taken in to account. Secondly mistakes with high current wiring like cooker (or showers) are more likely to lead to overheating and worst-case a fire.

Advice here for anything you are unsure of, or is out of your knowledge/experience/competence region, would be to get a professional in for it.

 

[ajannick]

Sorry, cannot certify any work done by somebody else, even if I am on site.
As this is the replacement of an existing appliance, there is no legal requirement to notify anything. The best anyone could do is to offer an opinion - if you photo the connections and post them here - and then someone on here might say "that looks alright to me".

Ok, so I have a dilemma...
Should it convert the single socket behind the existing cooker to a double and look for an oven or hob to plug into this along with the current extractor. Or should I buy a dual appliance plate and connect the hob and oven onto the dedicated supply. The current freestanding cooker is rated at 10KW and as stated originally there is a 32amp breaker/fuse in the CU.
The oven I’m looking at is 3.5KW and the induction hob is 7.2KW.
I not set on the appliances yet, so if anyone has some advice about which way to go, I can get the hob and oven ratings to work around your suggestions.
Many thanks

 

[Taylortwocities]

You do not put a 3.5KW oven on a 13A plug.
Get a dual appliance plate and hardwire both appliances to it.

 

[pc1966]

Look at the induction hob specification before you buy. Some of them have fancy power control arrangements so they may, or may not, fit the diversity load formula from the IET On Site Guide Appendix A used above.

A 13A socket is limited to a 3kW load, so you might struggle to find a usable oven at that rating.
[automerge]1588277855[/automerge]
Just missed Taylortwocities post!

 

[ajannick]

You do not put a 3.5KW oven on a 13A plug.
Get a dual appliance plate and hardwire both appliances to it.

Thanks for your reply.
Would this come under replacing like for like?
I was thinking that if need be I could buy an oven or hob with a plug attached and then use the current appliance plate for the other. My concern was that depending on which appliance and the KW of it, the 32amp fuse may be too big.

What I’m basically after is a way forward that keeps me within the replacing like for like and not needing a qualified electrician. I’m happy to look for appliances with or without plugs in whatever KW is needed, just want to keep within the allowed work for the home owner.
Thanks again for your help/reply.

 

[Taylortwocities]

The 32Amp fuse is not too big.
it is there to protect the cable that runs from the consumer unit to the kitchen.

There is no “like for like” wording in any of the wiring regulations or of the Building Regulation that deals with electrical safety.

what you are doing isn’t anywhere close to the same thing. You have and integrated cooker (hob and oven in one box) and you want to replace that with two separate boxes.
You are looking for problems that don’t exist.
The two appliances that you suggested in your first post can be connected, using a dual appliance plate, to the existing circuit without changing anything else.

 

[ajannick]

The 32Amp fuse is not too big.
it is there to protect the cable that runs from the consumer unit to the kitchen.

There is no “like for like” wording in any of the wiring regulations or of the Building Regulation that deals with electrical safety.

what you are doing isn’t anywhere close to the same thing. You have and integrated cooker (hob and oven in one box) and you want to replace that with two separate boxes.
You are looking for problems that don’t exist.
The two appliances that you suggested in your first post can be connected, using a dual appliance plate, to the existing circuit without changing anything else.

Ok, thanks. Would this slight tweak (changing single plate to double) be considered work the homeowner can do. I read that a non-electrician can swap appliances over when the connection box/dedicated circuit is already there. Anyways...
What thickness/type of wire should I buy to connect each appliance to the new dual appliance plate? I was thinking 6mm for both, but this maybe over kill for the smaller KW appliance.
Thanks again

 

[pc1966]

The traditional 6mm twin & earth should be fine for both, but you will need to check what terminal size they have to make sure it can accommodate that. The high power one is fairly certain, but the lower power one might not expect anything more than 4mm, etc.

Also check any temperature ratings they specify for the cable, if it is above 70C then you would need to look at something like the low smoke fume type (90C) version as this:

Leading Electrical Wholesaler | Superlec Direct

Wide Variety Of Cables, Lamps & Lighting, Alarm Systems, Heating & Hand Dryers. Free Next Working Day Delivery On Orders Over £50. 40 Years In Industry. Same Day Dispatch. Cable Cut To Length. Better Than Trade Prices.

www.superlecdirect.com

 

[ajannick]

The traditional 6mm twin & earth should be fine for both, but you will need to check what terminal size they have to make sure it can accommodate that. The high power one is fairly certain, but the lower power one might not expect anything more than 4mm, etc.

Also check any temperature ratings they specify for the cable, if it is above 70C then you would need to look at something like the low smoke fume type (90C) version as this:

Leading Electrical Wholesaler | Superlec Direct

Wide Variety Of Cables, Lamps & Lighting, Alarm Systems, Heating & Hand Dryers. Free Next Working Day Delivery On Orders Over £50. 40 Years In Industry. Same Day Dispatch. Cable Cut To Length. Better Than Trade Prices.

www.superlecdirect.com

Thanks for your reply.
Getting a little more complicated for me now!
Would it be easier/safer to use the existing wire that the free standing 10KW cooker has for the 7.2kw induction hob and just keep the single outlet setup and then buy an oven that comes with a plug and plug it into the double socket I’ll be making from the current single one?
Thanks again

 

[Taylortwocities]

I recently installed a new Bosch oven and Neff hob. Both hardwired. Both were supplied with cables.

Some do and some don’t. The installation instructions will tell you the cable size and type, should you need to supply it.