Stripped thread on back plate

[csj]

I have just replaced a spur in my kitchen (water had got into the previous one from a leaking washing machine in the flat upstairs) and all works well.

However, the thread on the back plate (embedded in tiles) has stripped and I can not get a tight fit. Are there any "tricks " that I could use to hold the spur in tightly without having to remove tiles to replace the back plate/box. I have already tried using longer screws but they did not hold either.

Thanks for any ideas that anyone might have.

 

[a1guvner]

try squashing slightly where the socket screw goes in to with some pliers from the front and rear faces of the lug, then get a socket re-threader to re open up the thread

 

[Pockets]

If re-threading the lug does not work, I used to drill the back of the box (3mm metal bit) then tap it with my 3.5mm re-threader. Then use a long screw or extension.

 

[benji]

drill & tap the back of box inline with striped hole and get longer screw or remove lug from spare box file it down so it fits behind the striped lug and glue with something like araldite

 

[csj]

Thanks to all for your suggestions. I've never tried a tap and die set but will think about trying it.

 

[LineProducts]

How common is this problem? I have seen a gadget that will fix this but would you buy a pack to keep in your toolbox?

 

[Edd]

I normally break a lug off another box and hold it in place with a bit of sleaving held pulled behind it holding it against the old lug, pulling it to one side as soon as the screw bites the sleaving can be pulled out. works everytime and dont need to get the drill in...

Lineproducts.. anymore info on such a product??

 

[LineProducts]

I normally break a lug off another box and hold it in place with a bit of sleaving held pulled behind it holding it against the old lug, pulling it to one side as soon as the screw bites the sleaving can be pulled out. works everytime and dont need to get the drill in...

Lineproducts.. anymore info on such a product??

Basically a small clip on - the product I have looked at but I would have to invest in 10,000's of units and dont know if there is a market. Is it the sort of thing that guys would spend a few quid on to have a pack of say 10 or 20 in their toolbox?

 

[telectrix]

or you could drill and plug the wall behind and fix with a no.6 screw

 

[Jay Sparks]

You Can get a "tapping screwdriver" from most wholesalers for about £6. They have various sizes, I have the 3, 3.5 and 4mm ones. Just put it in the hole and rethread it. Simples.


Jay

 

[Jay Sparks]

or you could drill and plug the wall behind and fix with a no.6 screw

I knew a joiner who did the same but he used no.8 and put them stright into the lug, even though there was nothing wrong with it. He didnt have any proper screws, so he just stuck them in all the sockets & spurs in a kitchen rewire. Looked a right mess.

Jay

 

[MarkieSparkie]

An old trick shown to me by my ex-boss ... pass a loop of 1mm[SUP]2[/SUP] copper wire through the tapped hole, close and twist the loop at the back of the lug ... refit accessory faceplate ... the screw now has something to bite on and will secure the faceplate .. just don't over do the tightening of the screw. A quick temporary fix when your under time pressure from the boss, until you can do a proper job.

 

[csj]

Thanks again for all the suggestions. Having looked at my unit again, it looks to me as if the whole back plate is made of white plastic, rather than metal and I therefore suspect that the stripping of the thread may render it useless for retapping.

I will, though, think about telectrix's suggestion about drilling into the wall behind, using a rawplug and then a number 6 screw (if they come long enough to reach) to attach the front plate to the wall behind..

 

[Marvo]

I would use a clinchnut (sometimes called a rivnut). It's like a pop rivet except it doesn't 'pop' and it gives you a new thread.

link

 

[HandySparks]

Basically a small clip on - the product I have looked at but I would have to invest in 10,000's of units and dont know if there is a market. Is it the sort of thing that guys would spend a few quid on to have a pack of say 10 or 20 in their toolbox?

Sort of like an M3.5 spire clip?
I'd buy a pack of 10, but it would be a fairly rare purchase. The advantage of something like this would be no special tool required.

 

[oldtimer]

If you are serious about being an electrician then a tap and dwang as they say up here is a required part of your toolbox let me eplain I have had my dwang for 36 years with 3.5mm 4mm and 5mm taps no your box problem I had the same problem last week but I carry 3.5 mm extention screws (this is a male female set up and about 30mm long. Drill a 3mm at the back of the box tap it with a 3.5mm and the jobs done also a handy bit of kit is the 5mm tap because when you do a job in a old house the thread in a conduit box is either 2BA or 3/16 and most of the time the screws are too short or some numpty has jammed in a wood screw but you can tap it out with a 5 mm and again job done

 

[Marvo]

Sort of like an M3.5 spire clip?
I'd buy a pack of 10, but it would be a fairly rare purchase. The advantage of something like this would be no special tool required.

Just thinking out loud, I'm not too sure about spire clips, the only thing that holds them in place when the screw is removed is the tension. Maybe a hazard if the socket or switch was live and the screw was removed or missing.