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Steel conduit - tips and tricks?

Discuss Steel conduit - tips and tricks? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hello!

Got a few jobs on the way that involve large amounts of conduit work. All surface mounted and will mostly be mounted externally around the building.

I was just wondering if anyone has any good tips, tricks or good points to think about when doing it to be quicker and more efficient. This includes tools or working methods.

Thanks all.
 
Try 32mm conduit.........
Was doing some the other day, upwards, without extension bar...
condu.jpg
 
Is that a ratchet threader you have on the end of that conduit?
Yes, it also has an extension handle to double the length (shown in photo below), will do all steel conduit sizes from 25mm to 2". Got it second hand from ebay, appears to have BT numbers stamped on it, the dies were all in their original wrapping, seemed never to have been used. I've posted a photo before, also have a conduit bender that does up to 2", though it works better on screwed steel pipe.
conduit-tools-jpg.33491
 
Always a prob going round external corner,outside,some take out the brick,others,end box,conduit into that,whatever.
Conduit end box would be my preferred method, it worked for me when I was working, and nothing much has change in the reseeding years, knocking bits off the brick corner is not good practice in my book smacks of Cowboyism. Do the job properly first time, have some pride in your craftsmanship, don't turn into a conduit thrower.
 
I managed all those bends in one length of conduit, you should see my tray and trunking work..........
If you do a few loop in installs and you can get quite into it, I enjoy doing that. I did it on some sockets on the same job to demonstrate measuring the bends in one piece for an apprentice. And no I didn't do the wonky bit feeding the switch the other side of the wall. Of course I could have gone straight across, but there's no need to demonstrate that. Cables can be pulled in after plastering.
co.jpg
 
If you do a few loop in installs and you can get quite into it, I enjoy doing that. I did it on some sockets on the same job to demonstrate measuring the bends in one piece for an apprentice. And no I didn't do the wonky bit feeding the switch the other side of the wall. Of course I could have gone straight across, but there's no need to demonstrate that. Cables can be pulled in after plastering.
View attachment 44233
My OCD is getting the better of me ;o)))))))

upload_2018-9-9_20-47-12.png
 
My OCD is getting the better of me ;o)))))))
The wonky one behind was already there from when the building was built. Any spacing issues on the front 2 are an illusion. :)
@freddo was there a reason not to go straight across? I'm trying to work out why you'd go up, do a double 90 and come straight back down insead of going sideways for a much easier and shorter run.
As I said it was for a demonstration, that and I didn't want to wreck the wall, the noggins were well nailed in with long ring shank nails.
 
If you do a few loop in installs and you can get quite into it, I enjoy doing that. I did it on some sockets on the same job to demonstrate measuring the bends in one piece for an apprentice. And no I didn't do the wonky bit feeding the switch the other side of the wall. Of course I could have gone straight across, but there's no need to demonstrate that. Cables can be pulled in after plastering.
View attachment 44233
I like that, why, because it is fully rewirable , don't see much of that these days.!!
 

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